Lucas 20w50 Full Synthetic and 75w140 Full Synthetic Review
#42
04-20-2017, 09:03 AM
Tourer
Gotta watch your engine temp when you make that long haul through the Cumberland gap, headin' down into Johnson City Tennessee....
#43
04-20-2017, 09:30 AM
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Pulled this from the product Safety Data sheet under "New Jersey" reporting:
: The following components are listed: Distillates (petroleum), hydrotreated heavy paraffinic; Residual oils (petroleum), solvent-refined
This tells me the product is a Group III. Nothing wrong with that for those who understand the differences, as you probably do, but when buying a product labeled "synthetic" I personally expect to get a synthesized product not a refined one. Its no surprise your engine is running quietly. Switching from a synthetic to a Dino will often do that.
I appreciate your informative post here.
Thanx
: The following components are listed: Distillates (petroleum), hydrotreated heavy paraffinic; Residual oils (petroleum), solvent-refined
This tells me the product is a Group III. Nothing wrong with that for those who understand the differences, as you probably do, but when buying a product labeled "synthetic" I personally expect to get a synthesized product not a refined one. Its no surprise your engine is running quietly. Switching from a synthetic to a Dino will often do that.
I appreciate your informative post here.
Thanx
Last edited by HKMark23; 04-20-2017 at 09:36 AM.
#44
04-20-2017, 09:48 AM
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Ok, here are some good and popular engine oil. They all meet OEM minimum requirements, and some are exceeding them.
Witch is the best of the best ? It's hard to tell because it always depend on the way you are riding, the temperature conditions and the kind of environment you are riding in.
True synthetic oils
Amsoil ARO 20W50: 100% synthetic, Groupe IV PAO base, 2000ppm Zinc
Prolab Legend 20W50: 100% synthetic, Groups IV/V PAO/Ester blend base, 2000ppm Zinc
Red Line 20W50: 100% synthetic, Groupe V Ester base, 1000ppm Zinc
Synthetized mineral base oils
Harley SYN3 20W50: Hydro-cracked synthetic, Group III mineral base, 2000ppm Zinc
BMW 15W50: Hydro-cracked synthetic, Group III mineral base, 1100ppm Zinc
Castrol 20W50: Hydro-cracked synthetic, Group III mineral base, 1300ppm Zinc
Mobil 1 20W50: Hydro-cracked synthetic, Group III mineral base, 1300ppm Zinc
Royal Purple 20W50: Hydro-cracked synthetic, Group III mineral base, 1000 ppm Zinc
Valvoline MAX 20W50: Hydro-cracked synthetic, Group III mineral base, 900ppm Zinc
Engine oil is sensitive to so much things; idle vs. high speed, heat vs. cold, humidity vs. dryness, altitude vs. sea level. An engine wears at a certain rate - sometimes slow, sometimes fast. The rate at which this wear occurs can indeed be influenced by lubrication in many ways. In certain exceptional cases, wear can be nearly held in check. Nurture your oil and you nurture your engine. After all, what comes in more regular contact with the engine’s critical frictional surfaces than the lubricant that bathes them?
Of course there are those fortunate few who can afford the best of everything. They are surrounded by all the high-quality possessions of a life of luxury. As such, they would not settle for anything short of the best for their bikes and its accessories, including the best motor oil and the best filter. However, when it comes to lubrication, the best is indeed a foggy concept - after all, don’t most of the major suppliers of lubricant claim to have premium products that are the best? What defines the best? Cost? Aggressive advertising?
Many bike enthusiasts are totally preoccupied with the love affair they have with their bikes. They belong to clubs, hang out at garages and auto parts stores, have an extensive collection of tools, and of course take great pride in talking about the specific motor oil they use. Their lubrication decisions are often rooted in tradition, loyalty and the habits they have formed.
A surprising large number of us are controlled by fear of criticism and embarrassment. We want to know what everyone else is doing so that we can go with the flow. If our father, brother, sister and best friend all use a conventional 20W50 Brand X motor oil, we wouldn’t dare consider anything else. After all, we can’t be criticized if we follow the recommendations of our network of personal advisors.
Finally there is a category of bikers who really don’t care. They trust that any oil sold commercially by a household-name oil company is good enough for them. They don’t want to be bothered with the details of having to analyze the available alternatives. To them, ignorance is bliss.
So... like I said before, you probably have tried many brands and finaly found something that really fits your needs? Stick with it and have great rides !
By the way, I'm working for Prolab and it's not available in USA... yet!
Witch is the best of the best ? It's hard to tell because it always depend on the way you are riding, the temperature conditions and the kind of environment you are riding in.
True synthetic oils
Amsoil ARO 20W50: 100% synthetic, Groupe IV PAO base, 2000ppm Zinc
Prolab Legend 20W50: 100% synthetic, Groups IV/V PAO/Ester blend base, 2000ppm Zinc
Red Line 20W50: 100% synthetic, Groupe V Ester base, 1000ppm Zinc
Synthetized mineral base oils
Harley SYN3 20W50: Hydro-cracked synthetic, Group III mineral base, 2000ppm Zinc
BMW 15W50: Hydro-cracked synthetic, Group III mineral base, 1100ppm Zinc
Castrol 20W50: Hydro-cracked synthetic, Group III mineral base, 1300ppm Zinc
Mobil 1 20W50: Hydro-cracked synthetic, Group III mineral base, 1300ppm Zinc
Royal Purple 20W50: Hydro-cracked synthetic, Group III mineral base, 1000 ppm Zinc
Valvoline MAX 20W50: Hydro-cracked synthetic, Group III mineral base, 900ppm Zinc
Engine oil is sensitive to so much things; idle vs. high speed, heat vs. cold, humidity vs. dryness, altitude vs. sea level. An engine wears at a certain rate - sometimes slow, sometimes fast. The rate at which this wear occurs can indeed be influenced by lubrication in many ways. In certain exceptional cases, wear can be nearly held in check. Nurture your oil and you nurture your engine. After all, what comes in more regular contact with the engine’s critical frictional surfaces than the lubricant that bathes them?
Of course there are those fortunate few who can afford the best of everything. They are surrounded by all the high-quality possessions of a life of luxury. As such, they would not settle for anything short of the best for their bikes and its accessories, including the best motor oil and the best filter. However, when it comes to lubrication, the best is indeed a foggy concept - after all, don’t most of the major suppliers of lubricant claim to have premium products that are the best? What defines the best? Cost? Aggressive advertising?
Many bike enthusiasts are totally preoccupied with the love affair they have with their bikes. They belong to clubs, hang out at garages and auto parts stores, have an extensive collection of tools, and of course take great pride in talking about the specific motor oil they use. Their lubrication decisions are often rooted in tradition, loyalty and the habits they have formed.
A surprising large number of us are controlled by fear of criticism and embarrassment. We want to know what everyone else is doing so that we can go with the flow. If our father, brother, sister and best friend all use a conventional 20W50 Brand X motor oil, we wouldn’t dare consider anything else. After all, we can’t be criticized if we follow the recommendations of our network of personal advisors.
Finally there is a category of bikers who really don’t care. They trust that any oil sold commercially by a household-name oil company is good enough for them. They don’t want to be bothered with the details of having to analyze the available alternatives. To them, ignorance is bliss.
So... like I said before, you probably have tried many brands and finaly found something that really fits your needs? Stick with it and have great rides !
By the way, I'm working for Prolab and it's not available in USA... yet!
Thanks for the summary.I have to admit the category for Royal Purple comes as a surprise to me. I had thought it was a PAO based oil.
The others are no surprise. It was Castrol who lead the charge to classify certain high grade Dino oils as synthetics for marketing purposes.
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boston jim (04-20-2017)
#45
04-20-2017, 09:56 AM
Contact IB Sales to have your account opened
Hey Blue, Do you live in Sebring, the Poorest City in the USA? We love it there, hope to be living there, before snow falls here again! Be Safe!
#46
04-20-2017, 10:40 AM
Contact IB Sales to have your account opened
Hey Splat, Do you know the name of the Guy holding the Bike in his arms? What kind of Bike is that?
#48
04-20-2017, 11:45 AM
A new oil rule from boston jim, I better write this down before I forget it...
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; 04-20-2017 at 11:51 AM.
#49
04-20-2017, 11:59 AM
Contact IB Sales to have your account opened
PS, I think you owe everybody who replied to your BS, an apology! Looking at your signature, I'm guessing you'll be turning 27 this month? Go back & read your BS, you were out of line! I have Frye Boots, older than you, that have been to Daytona, Sturgis, & Laconia, 48 years!
PSS, I love your Breakout, if I was 20 years younger & had both eyes, I'd get one in Black! Good Luck & Be Safe, BJ
PSSS, Takes a real man, to admit he was wrong! SO, what are we using for oil this year, curious minds want to know?
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Iron lHorse (06-16-2023),
miknik6602 (04-15-2018)
#50
04-20-2017, 12:39 PM
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Hey Zeus, Correction; AMSOIL (ARO) 20W-50, flat-tappet muscle car oil, has 1379 ppm Zinc, Z-Rod (ZRF) 20W-50, another flat-tappet oil, has 1440 ppm Zinc, & Dominator (RD50) 15W-50 Racing oil (car) has 1575 ppm Zinc. The RD50 oil has been a Factory fill for Erik Buell since April, 2011. It has Friction Modifiers, NOT to be used in primary/clutch!
I don't have the V-Twin numbers in front of me!
I don't have the V-Twin numbers in front of me!