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sporty tank paint stripping, dent filling, and interior derusting

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Old 07-16-2017, 07:47 PM
electra_boogaloo's Avatar
electra_boogaloo
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Default sporty tank paint stripping, dent filling, and interior derusting

hi all, just got a tank from the junk pile at wheels through time and i'm very happy about that. however, it is very crusty. overall it's in good shape for being from the 80's and who knows the past it's had. my plans are to use aircraft remover to get the paint off. i'm not sure what i should use for the surface rust on the inside (it's an average amount of rust for an old unused tank). after i get that done i'm going to need something to fill in some small dents and prep it for paint.

i'm fairly inexperienced at body work, usually it's just been slap a coat of whatever on and go, but i feel like taking my time and doing something "nice" for a change. i also plan on using rattle cans because i'm cheap and i don't have a shop to set up air sprayers.

so i have a few questions for the pros on here.

1. rust removal - muriatic acid vs white vinegar vs evaporust what's better?
2. after rust removal - do i need to use a tank lining or should i just fill it with gas and be done with it?
3. aircraft remover - why is it even called that? is this the best option for paint removal or should i look elsewhere.
4. dents - what should i use to fill the dents? i know nothing about bondo, but i'm aware there are a few types for different applications.
5. primer - there are like 10 different kinds. what should i use considering it's going over top of bondo (or similar filler)? right now i'm between self etching and enamel
6. paint - i'm planning on doing one solid color and then clear coating for durability. it is okay to clear coat over a "gloss" finish paint?

finally, any good diy threads, videos, or websites you can link me to would be greatly appreciated.

p.s. here's a pic of the tank

 
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Old 07-25-2017, 08:20 PM
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Well I am not a profession painter, but I will take a crack at some of this.

I have never used vinegar but I have used phosporic (SP) acid, and Muriatic acid. And the water based stuff at autozone works great. Just if you use that, rinse with water really good and then a few times with denatured alcohol to displace the water. If you have rust scale, you can put nuts and washers or some small lengths of chain in there and shake the hell out of it to break it loose. Just be sure to get it all out.

I would really consider using a tank liner like the Kreem kit, or red cote just in case you didn't get all the rust or if there is a small pin hole you miss. The pinhole would suck because you would find it via a great big paint bubble.

I have no idea why it is called aircraft remover, but will say the stuff works. I mean really works.

Dents- this can be a bit tricky. First I woulld scuff the entire thing with 80gt paper. Then use a self etching primer to coat it down good. Let it dry through. hit your dints with 40gt paper to scuff them good. If it is a light dent, you can use polyester puddy, or regular bondo. If it is deep, try to get it pushed out if you can at least some before you just fill it with mud. But for areas where the mud will be thicker, I like using a duraglass, (glass filled bondo) to get it close then regular bondo or polyester puddy to get it perfect. After you get your tank close to smooth, use a sandable primer. Put a few coats on, then guide coat it by misting it with a dark paint (Any spray paint will do) and this is if you are using gray primer, if you are using black, use a light color paint for your guide coat. After that drys through, get out the 400gt paper and start blocking it out. (Use a sanding block so you don't leave palm or finger lines) Sand till all the guide paint is gone. Low areas will be the last to go, but you want to bring it all down to the lowest point. If you hit bondo or metal before you get it level, prime and repeat until all the surface is level. Then seal and paint.

You can clear a gloss, but I would at least use an automotive grade spray paint such as Dupi-color. Just be sure you re-coat and top coat within the recommended time in the instructions.

A word of caution. When using rattle can paint, don't get any gas on it, as it will eat it. It will also scar and scratch easier. Mostly because it only has a mechanical bond unlike mix paint which has the mechanical bond, but also a chemical bond. So it won't be as durable.

Again, I am not any professional, just dabble a bit over the last few years, and I am sure there is much more professional advise that will be far greater than mine, but this is my best shot at helping via written word.

Take your time!!!!! it is all in the prep. The best painter in the world will do a crap job if the prep work is lacking.

Also, if you are going to try and get inside with something to push out a dent, try a wooden dowel, or something like that that doesn't have sharp edges. You don't want to push a ridge out on the tank. And do this before you seal the tank.

Good luck.
 
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