I was on the fence as to buy a spray gun and compressor or try to rattle can paint an extra inner fairing I had. After comparing the cost and reading you can get a very decent job with rattle can I opted that route.
Went with Krylon Fusion gloss black and UV Protection Clear.

Being my first painting project, I thought the base coat went on rather well. Was kinda shiny and even but not mirror like. Instructions from Krylon state no sanding or polishing needed.

I threw down three base coats then hit it with a clear coat and waited til next day. Well the results were numbing. Clear coat gave it a foggy dull look. Needless to say was very disappointed.

I called Krylon up and asked should I be wet sanding and buffing the base or cleat coat and they said no. Hit it with another clear coat and that should re activate the clear and should shine up real nice in 24 hours. Still no good.

So, is there another rattle can brand I should try? Do I need to wets and? Would using Maquires ultimate compound replace the wet sanding procedure or be in addition too?

Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.

 

Two small observations based upon some of my experiences on small projects.

I had a fogging issue when I did not wait long enough for the base coats to dry. In my case each I had to wait 24 hours between coats.

On one project I found it took almost 24 hours for the clear to cure and fogging to disappear. When I had sprayed the clear, it turned to ugly fogged gray. 36 hours later it turned crystal clear.

I am not an expert, but just two observations I ran into on small projects.

 

Thanks WIHD55. Did you have to wait 24 hours in between each base coat or between base and clear coats?
Also, what brand rattle can did you use?
Was it close to mirror like finish?
Any wet sanding or polishing involved?
Thanks again. Just trying to get as much info as I can so I get it right the next time.

 

as stated above... the base coat out gassed into the clear or the clear was simply laid on way to thick. causing it to fog

what was your prep? i have shot rattle cans countless times and got show quality paint work out of it... how did you prep the parts for paint? that plays a HUGE role in the overall finish on the part? 24 hours with a rattle can is not enough time to cure in my opinion, you need at least 72 hours, then scuff and shoot clear, not just shoot clear, it has to have something to bite into. I also suggest that you soak the cans in hot water before use it will really help with the atomization of the paint... remember paint does not know if it is being shot from a rattle can or gun, it is all in the prep and light coats.

depending on how thick your clear is you can still prob wet sand with 1000 get the cloud out of the clear, then 5 - 6 light coats of clear to give it a nice finish

here is an example of what propper prep and light coats will get you

 

Thanks JRK5892, For the base coat, how long did you wait in between light base coats? and did you do any wet sanding on base coat?
So after base coat is applied, wait at least 72 hours, then start lite clear coats. Do you wet sand between clear coats?
I am painting the inner fairing which is plastic. Krylon fusion stated no prep work and the paint was made for plastic. Should I have primed with bulldog primer for plastic first?

Thanks again for any clarification. Im thinking of sanding it all down and starting fresh again once I have a clear step by step procedure in place.

 

I asked these questions here last winter and JRK was awesome with his responses. I put the cans in hot water for 10 minutes before shooting then reassembled the tips from paint thinner, joe said to take em of the cans when done and just soak em until u need em again. I think this makes sure u won't have a bad splotch on say a 2nd coat after u prepped, primed, sanded, base coated, then wet sanded up to 3000# grit then shot paint out of a dirty tip.
My tanks came out really nice, my front fender was so- so. I think that rustoleum lacquer from home depot is great but one problem, they carry two colors, clear & black. My back was and is black so I'm satisfied by their inventory. Lol
The lacquer doesn't hold up as well, SUPPOSEDLY. I sprayed the lacquer on my old 10 speed bike and was psyched about the final results so I will certainly do the front fender in them this winter.

 

Tried a little experiment last night. I wet sanded clear off the right side of nacelle in pic. I think I got clear off. I shot the right side with a coat of high gloss duplicolor black. waited 15 minutes then shot right side again. First coat was shinier, after second coat it looks almost flat black dull.

Left side still had clear and I just shot over the clear and it looks as dull as right side. Now Im wondering two things here. Maybe I didnt get the clear off right side and the interaction with new base coat turned dull? or it needs a couple or few days to cure and shine up on its own?

Any thoughts on this? I know the example is not even and there are blemishes, I was just trying to get some shine from high gloss to show up somewhere. Does the base coat need wet sanding too or do I need to wait longer in between base coat applications?

A co worker mentioned that I should get some compound paste and a buffer as that would be a better alternative to wet sanding by hand. Any thoughts on that statement?

Thanks for your feedback.

 

you are hand sanding not using a sanding block you can see your finger lines in it... you will need a foam block like this (any auto parts will carry this) add a drop or two of dish soap to you sanding water to help with your glide

 

Thanks JRK5892, and what is a good indicator for when the clear coat is removed? What is a good sign to stop sanding? Am i looking for a dull flat look or a shinier smooth look?
Also, as far as already painted parts, should I sand all the way back to raw finish then prime, sand and base coat?
If and when would you add a polisher or maquires ultimate compound?
Thanks again for your time and help.

 

first what i would do is this... i would sand everythign down to 6oo, wipe down with prep and tack cloth, then shoot with a self etching primer, from there i would block that out wtih 800, then lay down your base coat of black... depending on how that lays will determine if you need to color sand or not. typically you can wet sand with 1000, if you hve anything in it, from there wipe down again with prep (or other paint prep spray) then tack cloth, lay on your top coat clear... after at least 72 hours, start wtih 1000 wet sand and go up to 2000, then some rubbing compound = amazing paint job!