Primary/Transmission/Driveline/Clutch Find answers to general powertrain, primary and transmission. Have clutch issues and need suggestions? Post them here.

OEM clutch question

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 02-12-2016, 11:15 AM
Seventy4blazer's Avatar
Seventy4blazer
Seventy4blazer is offline
Road Master
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Surprise, AZ
Posts: 1,149
Received 137 Likes on 45 Posts
Default OEM clutch question

2014 Street Glide with just over 54k miles.


Clutch feels like it is starting to slip a little bit on take off. I have been happy with the stock clutch feel, but did have the SE Heavy clutch spring added at 38k miles when the transmission was warrantied out.


Am I able to just replace the stock friction plates and disks with the basket still in the bike? I do not currently have the tools needed to R/R the entire clutch assembly. I would rather buy the tools than pay the dealer to do it, but IF I can swap out the disks and plates while still in the bike, I would be happy.


OR, what other clutches use the factory basket and are just (mostly) a plate/disk swap?


thanks! I am new in this area.
 
  #2  
Old 02-12-2016, 11:28 AM
corliss@bakerdrivetrain.com's Avatar
corliss@bakerdrivetrain.com
corliss@bakerdrivetrain.com is offline
Banned
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Michigan
Posts: 23,850
Received 1,856 Likes on 1,287 Posts
Default

You should be able to just change the plates.
 
  #3  
Old 02-12-2016, 11:37 AM
Seventy4blazer's Avatar
Seventy4blazer
Seventy4blazer is offline
Road Master
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Surprise, AZ
Posts: 1,149
Received 137 Likes on 45 Posts
Default

I should have added that I haven't opened up one of my service manuals to look yet...


thanks Mark for the quick reply.
 
  #4  
Old 02-12-2016, 01:08 PM
Campy Roadie's Avatar
Campy Roadie
Campy Roadie is offline
Seasoned HDF Member

Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 11,793
Received 5,063 Likes on 2,501 Posts
Default

74

You absolutely can.

The bolts on the clutch spring are 10 mm. Make sure the bike is in gear wheel on the ground or have somebody hold the brake. They aren't under very much torque. I always soak the new plates in oil before Install.

You'll spend more time taking off the floorboard and outer primary than it'll take to install new plates and readjust the pushrod and cable.

But. If it isn't slipping in 5th or 6th the plates are probably still good (higher gears is where it should be slipping first ). I do cone course work on my Road King and still have the stock plates at north of 50K miles.
 

Last edited by Campy Roadie; 02-12-2016 at 01:10 PM.
  #5  
Old 02-12-2016, 01:36 PM
Jackie Paper's Avatar
Jackie Paper
Jackie Paper is offline
Seasoned HDF Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Honah Lee
Posts: 34,191
Received 4,531 Likes on 3,784 Posts
Default

Clutch always slips a little on take off. If it not hydraulic, make sure your back off is correct at the clutch so it has free play to total engage and there is a little play at the cable at the lever. Now in the 5, at normal cruse speed, WOT and see if you can break the clutch loose so the tack revs up without an increase in speed. That is were you check it. Not sure how you can check it in first unless it buzzes up in first without speeding up. If it slips then, I doubt you would get bike over 25. You are not going to fill a little slip in lower gears. That new slip clutch on the new Harley's actually slips on down shift to reduce shock. Not sure how that works.
 
  #6  
Old 02-12-2016, 02:07 PM
Seventy4blazer's Avatar
Seventy4blazer
Seventy4blazer is offline
Road Master
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Surprise, AZ
Posts: 1,149
Received 137 Likes on 45 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by RIPSAW
Clutch always slips a little on take off. If it not hydraulic, make sure your back off is correct at the clutch so it has free play to total engage and there is a little play at the cable at the lever. Now in the 5, at normal cruse speed, WOT and see if you can break the clutch loose so the tack revs up without an increase in speed. That is were you check it. Not sure how you can check it in first unless it buzzes up in first without speeding up. If it slips then, I doubt you would get bike over 25. You are not going to fill a little slip in lower gears. That new slip clutch on the new Harley's actually slips on down shift to reduce shock. Not sure how that works.
I have had zero slip down the road in 4-6, so that is odd. I will double check it today.


It just seems to be lagging on take off is all compared to when I brought her home with 12 miles.


MAYBE it is just in my head since I have been riding the Wide Glide a lot more... might have to just ride the SG more and see if it is just a mind game...


thanks all for the input.
 
  #7  
Old 02-12-2016, 02:23 PM
14GuineaPig's Avatar
14GuineaPig
14GuineaPig is online now
Stellar HDF Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 3,351
Received 508 Likes on 443 Posts
  #8  
Old 02-12-2016, 03:33 PM
corliss@bakerdrivetrain.com's Avatar
corliss@bakerdrivetrain.com
corliss@bakerdrivetrain.com is offline
Banned
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Michigan
Posts: 23,850
Received 1,856 Likes on 1,287 Posts
Default

Double check your chain tension it may be too tight and binding up the primary.
 
  #9  
Old 02-12-2016, 10:56 PM
Seventy4blazer's Avatar
Seventy4blazer
Seventy4blazer is offline
Road Master
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Surprise, AZ
Posts: 1,149
Received 137 Likes on 45 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Mark@ Baker Drivetrain
Double check your chain tension it may be too tight and binding up the primary.
I have monday off and will pull the Primary cover and check this. thanks!

Also going to check my cam chain tensioners as well... since they have never been checked...
 
  #10  
Old 02-13-2016, 05:00 AM
Jackie Paper's Avatar
Jackie Paper
Jackie Paper is offline
Seasoned HDF Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Honah Lee
Posts: 34,191
Received 4,531 Likes on 3,784 Posts
Default

Be sure to unhook the negative battery wire before starting. You cam chain tensioners are roller chain, so they easy go 100K unlike the link chain 2006/7 or so older bikes. Even if they wear to the outer links, they will roll and never wear anymore. Sure won't hurt as a reference, heat can cause them to get brittle and crack but that takes a long time.
When you check primary tensioner, be aware unlike the manual, there is little freeplay that you can see or fill with one finger. There is two heavy coil springs in the bottom of the auto plus the long unloader one. That is what confuses most but makes the system quite. The shoe is the same on the rollers as the cam tensioners as far as wear is concerned. You need to push hard on chain to compress the two springs to actual see the freeplay. Then, it will be about 3/8 to 7/16 or so. Index the chain and make sure it's that in a 3 or so places turning clutch sprocket a complete turn or more. It's easier with the plugs are out turning the rear wheel. Just install new plugs.

Be sure to take some picture for our reference at 54K . There are a lot of people out there who can benefit from your reference and that extra effort.
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; 09-14-2018 at 11:12 AM.


Quick Reply: OEM clutch question



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:33 AM.