Have an 09 street glide. I heard an whining from primary.. Sure enough the auto adjuster was too tight. I installed the "baker attitude adjuster" and the whine is now gone. what I noticed after the install is I now need more clutch. The whine is gone. She shifts smoother than any bike I have ever had and really feels good. Just that I now need more clutch and confused on why that might be from chain tension? When installing the adjuster I DID NOT remove the clutch basket with the comp bolt. Just the comp bolt and the gears that followed... It fought me a bit getting back together but I got it and replaced the comp bolt (as requested by manual) torqued etc. could I have bent the primary chain when
"shimmy-in" it all back together and this is causing the reasoning for lack of clutch? I can adjust it and give it more... Just curious. One more thing... I heard banging when started back up and in seconds went away.... Could that have been just the lack of fluid until being thrown around? Nervous as this was my first somewhat internal work by myself. Thank you in advance!

 

UPDATE: figured I should take the cover off and peak around... Re-adjusted the clutch from the hub to spec and who ever owned the bike before me unless it went out on it's own the clutch was not shushed correctly, so I straightened that out... The issue now is when I drained the NEW fluid I have just installed (used Mobil 1 syn in he primary as i was told a lot of oeople do) the fluid had that "sparkle" to it... No chunks just microscopic metal filings? What could that of been from? The fluid I drained prior to doing this job didn't have any.... On another note the primary chain itself was at 5/8 of play in right spot and almost an inch of play at loose spot.. (Baker stated that was ok when I called).. The chain can actually move side to side and I can touch the new attitude adjuster with the chain as I move it that way... Very confused on to why there is metal dust in fluid and the chain can move side to side... Could the chain be at an angle? Any help or advice as always is appreciated. Thank you in advance!!

 

There could be an alignment problem but I don't think the Baker tensioner could have affected that. I think the 5/8" to 1" free play difference seems high, when I measured, the differences at various locations on the chain were not that much. Assuming you are doing the check on a "cold" chain, I would tighten up the Baker to get a max measurement of 7/8" vs the 1" as before - the chain being too loose might be allowing it to rub something inside the primary that is causing the tiny metal flakes.

When you take your measurements at the top middle of the chain, be sure to push the chain firmly to get the right value - might help to have a helper, kinda tough doing it yourself. I did it myself but wished I had someone to hold the ruler steady.

Hope this helps some, just another Baker tensioner user trying to chime in....

 

Ok I will make sure to re-adjust that! ... That being said. If the chain was mis aligned... Could it hurt anything eventually other than rubbing in the "arm" of the baker tensioner.. Bc it can be pushed up against it which seems odd.. Not sure if it would even do it on it's own though while the chain is in motion. Are there certain symptoms of a chain which is stretched too much? Thanks!

 

It won't hurt to check the chain alignment. 5/8 free play should be measured cold at the tightest spot. Variances will happen because clutch baskets are never concentric so to see a change from 5/8 to 1" is not out of the ordinary. Check the chain alignment and get back to us.

 

The Installation Instructions to the Baker Compensator have an alignment check(page 5) that might be helpful:

http://bakerdrivetrain.com/wp-conten...-V8.041516.pdf

 

Thanks for the info, I will check this all out as soon as I get home.... Hate to keep picking for info but page five states to make sure the chain is removed... Is that the only way to reliably check the alignment? Could I do it with chain on? If not... This chain can only come off with the comp bolt and clutch basket removed first correct? Or is there a master link I can disconnect? Thanks!

 

Maybe, if you can get the straight edge to sit on the chain the exact same way on the comp and clutch basket and take your measurements, it should work.

I would measure several times from different points on the comp and basket to be more sure about the calculation.

When I did this check, I could literally see that the alignment was off by looking straight down the inner primary case surface from above. Impossible to know how much but it was a visible difference - turned out to be around .070" if my memory serves me right...

 

So I did my best to get what I believe was the right calculation.. From the comp side and clutch side measured with a straight edge and used the chain as guidance.. I made sure the chain was not shifted differently on both ends.. On the comp side from what I could tell the chain stuck out of the primary edge about 1-1.5 mm ... From the clutch side it seems to be about 2-2.5 mm .... I wish I could be more exact but using the straight edge they did not seem to be exactly the same... So a little stumped at the moment .. Are their certain symptoms that you had when this happened to you? How did you go about addressing the problem? As always thank you and appreciate the help from you guys!!!

I will say thought on a positive side that the baker attitude adjuster definetly get rid of that whine

 

OK, 1 mm = .039" and Baker likes to see .030" or less to install their comp, but it doesn't seem too far out of alignmeent. I had the opposite misalignment, comp was further out than the clutch side - yours is easier to fix, you can buy some washers/shims to elliminate the problem if you decide to. I cannot remember who sells the shims, maybe somebody else will chim in or I might be able to find a Thread that has a Post on who sells the shims.

I'm still thinking that if you tighten up the chain a tad, it may fix the problem without the shimming.