While trying to perform a clutch adjustment, I inadvertently overtightened the clutch adjuster rod/nut in the basket in the primary. It must have gone at least three or four revolutions beyond the initial resistance/contact. I backed out of it immediately but I think the damage was done because I noticed a huge amount of slack in the clutch cable and was not able to adjust at the clutch lever end. Not sure what I broke but I am at the last thread of the adjuster (cable side) with my clutch lever bottomed out.
I did however notice that if I screw the adjuster back into the primary and keep going even after the initial resistance, my clutch lever starts to come out. If I continue to keep screwing in, the slack will go away and my clutch lever gets firm.
What might I have broken? I have never opened a clutch basket so i don't know where to start. But I am pretty sure I can't ride the bike with the clutch adjuster screw/rod screwed in beyond the initial resistance backed half a turn.
Please help.
Thanks for reading.

 

Although we make adjustments at the primary end, the mechanism is actually under the small oval cover by the exhaust, on the other side of the bike. If you don't have an FSM now is a good time to invest in one! You can see the parts involved here.

 

Thanks for your reply.
I have the shop manual and now that you mentioned, I will look at the other side which is the cover by the exhaust. But is there anything specific that I should be looking at that may have broken? From the diagram in the manual, I see that there are three *****, two bearings, trap door etc. I will pop the cover and visually inspect It will be a pain because i will probably need to remove the exhaust.

 

Start over. You did not hurt anything doing that. In fact, I do that to deburr thread since that fine thread lock nut creates a burr and you have trouble with finding no play.

I think you have too much cable play combined with when you adjusted it with all that play, the cam ***** got out of position. (They go back and cannot permently get that way unless snap ring came off which is very unlikely)
Not sure why but the instructions say loosen clutch cable all the way.

Stupid idea and wrong. You make it free with a little more play then the normal 1/16 free play to adjust but you still need to be able to lever clutch when adjusting.

 

Thanks Rip. I started over and based on your message above, I figured that I should probably get a new adjusting screw and a lock nut also. The Harley dealer gave me the screw adjuster (Part # 37090-98A) for my 2015 Softail Deluxe. I did the procedure of screwing it in until I felt the resistance and then backed out i/2 a turn. But when I went to adjusting the slack in the cable, I couldn't do it. There's still too much slack.
I also noticed that the new screw was thinner than the old one.
You mentioned the snap ring. Is that the one which is on the other side of the throw out bearing? If so, are there any videos of how to replace that ring that you are aware of?
I looked in the Service manual. But it talks about removing the outer and inner primary along with compensator and bearing inner race under the section of "Pushrod Assembly: Cable Clutch removal".

 

Other side of transmission needs to come off. Take off your adjuster first again. Remove the screw and use a pencil magnet to pull out push rod. Did you break it. Should be straight and ball on each end.
"""screw was thinner than the old one"""..Do you mean shorter? I have seen this before. Pull up on the cable in and the try the adjuster screw in to no play. It's possible that snapring came off or your cable broke but not from what you did unless you cranked down on the zero play with a wrench.
If you do go in that side, you probably should replace throw out bearing.

 

Thanks again Rip. I will pull out the pushrod. I will try that first thing in the morning and post back.Those diagrams are very informative.

"""screw was thinner than the old one"""..Do you mean shorter?
- No. I meant that the thickness of the walls of the new screw were thinner than the old one. I will post a picture of the two shortly to show what I mean. No difference in length.

I was trying to torque the jamnut according to torque specs listed in the service manual. But I forgot about holding the screw adjuster in place with an allen wrench. That's what has caused all these issues I think.

I think I might be able to open the side transmission cover with just loosening the head bolts on the exhaust and the bracket down below. I dont think i need to remove it entirely. I will replace the bearing for sure. While I am in there, do you recommend i change the inner/outer ramps, ***** etc. I know I will replace the gasket. I am not really a mechanic by a long shot, but trying and thanks for all your help.

 

I opened the side transmission cover and looked at push rod, oil slinger, bearing, washers, retaining ring.
Here's what I noticed:
1. The retaining ring was in place and the bearing looked good and was freely rotating on the slinger.
2. The pushrod looks blue at the ends. Picture attached.
3. I have also attached a picture of both screw adjusters. The thicker one is what came out of the primary. The thinner one is new and supposedly an oem part for my bike. But that doesn't explain why they are not of the same size. Unless, my bike caused it to become thicker after 18k miles.
4. Haven't been able to remove the retaining ring on the ramps. So, I am not sure about their condition. I will get a better snap ring from Home Depot/ Lowe's tomorrow and give it a shot.

I will replace the bearing and the c clip on it for sure along with the gasket. Although I don't see anything wrong with the ramps, I am thinking of replacing them since I am in there already. I saw the ramp move up and down when I pulled the clutch cable with my hand in and out from within the side transmission cover.
Anything else you can think of?
Thanks for all your help. I really appreciate.

 

All looks good to me. That push rod is typical. That is Harley's heat trestment process. Part is case-harden on end.
You need to stick with Harley's retainer rings and parts.
See this before on here. You are just not finding no play setting before back off. Then you are too far out and cable then appears too long. Just my opinion..
What was clutch and lever like before you started this? Is bars, cable and lever stock or some aftermarket junk...

 

Everything is stock on this bike.
The clutch and lever felt fine before my attempted adjustment. I have adjusted the clutch at every three hole oil change. I do them every 2500 miles. Never had an issue. Except this time I forgot the cardinal rule and tried to torque down the jamnut without holding the adjusting screw with an Allen wrench. 😫

Not sure what else to do other than replace everything from the adjusting screw to the ramps and everything in between (like the pushrod, slinger, bearing, washer, retainer, coupling, ramps and *****.
I don't think I need to change the cable. It was fine before this. Unless you think the cable has gone over its service life (18k miles).
Anything else that you can suggest?