Clutch Adjustment Question
#1
Clutch Adjustment Question
Guys, I've got a question about clutch adjustment....I've read TCSTD's posts on the tech forums, and I've adjusted my Road King per the factory manual...I don't remember being able to collapse the adjustment on my Road King's clutch cable as much as I am able to on my new FLHTC. If I adjust the cable as much as the cable will allow, the lever is all free play and there is no engagement at all.
When adjusting the clutch, the factory manual for FLs says to 'introduce a large amount of free play at the clutch lever'...
I have read posts that say to fully collapse the cable, but if I fully collapse the cable, there is no engagement at all.....will I be able to set the ball and ramp by squeezing the clutch lever if I don't feel any engagement??
So, how much is a 'large amount of fee play'?? My 10,000 service check up is coming up soon and I want to adjust this properly....
Thanks for any help with this matter.
When adjusting the clutch, the factory manual for FLs says to 'introduce a large amount of free play at the clutch lever'...
I have read posts that say to fully collapse the cable, but if I fully collapse the cable, there is no engagement at all.....will I be able to set the ball and ramp by squeezing the clutch lever if I don't feel any engagement??
So, how much is a 'large amount of fee play'?? My 10,000 service check up is coming up soon and I want to adjust this properly....
Thanks for any help with this matter.
#3
RE: Clutch Adjustment Question
You failed to open up the primary, at the Derby cover to do the CLUTCH HUB adjustment....
AFTER you collapse the cable adjuster, you need to loosen the 11/16" nut on the adjuster screw.... Use an allen (3/16 I think), to loosen a bit, then TIGHTEN up till resistance is felt...
Back off 1 FULL turn, thenIN 1/2.... While holding the allen stationary, tighten the lock nut...
Next you will expand the cable adjuster to ALMOST max tension....
Cycle the clutch lever 5 times to set the ***** and ramps....
Final adjustment is 1/8" space between the cable ferrule and clamp housing.....
AFTER you collapse the cable adjuster, you need to loosen the 11/16" nut on the adjuster screw.... Use an allen (3/16 I think), to loosen a bit, then TIGHTEN up till resistance is felt...
Back off 1 FULL turn, thenIN 1/2.... While holding the allen stationary, tighten the lock nut...
Next you will expand the cable adjuster to ALMOST max tension....
Cycle the clutch lever 5 times to set the ***** and ramps....
Final adjustment is 1/8" space between the cable ferrule and clamp housing.....
#4
RE: Clutch Adjustment Question
I'm sorry, I should have elaborated more....I did remove the derby cover and perform the adjustment according to the manual....I'm just wondering how much do I need to collapse the cable.....all the way until I can't screw it anymore.....or just until there is a large amount of free play at the lever......if I collapse it fully, the lever is all slack.....
Per the manual: "Move adjuster toward jam nut to introduce a large amount of free play at hand lever."
The manual syas to squeeze the clutch lever to maximum limit three times to set ball and ramp release mechanism...before the cable adjustment is done.....
I adjusted it Friday and it seems to be functioning fine....I was just wondering about the amount of free play needed at the hand lever....
Per the manual: "Move adjuster toward jam nut to introduce a large amount of free play at hand lever."
The manual syas to squeeze the clutch lever to maximum limit three times to set ball and ramp release mechanism...before the cable adjustment is done.....
I adjusted it Friday and it seems to be functioning fine....I was just wondering about the amount of free play needed at the hand lever....
#5
RE: Clutch Adjustment Question
You just need enough free play at the lever to where you adjust the pushrod to bottom and still have slack. as long as you cant take out all the free play from the cable with the adjuster ( on the clutch) your gold.
from bottom on the clutch adjuster, back out 1/2 turn and lock the nut. then adjust the cable to where the clutch friction point is halfway through the lever movement. this is not per manual, but what actually works
adjusting the cable this way, gives you total disengagement, as well as full spring pressure.
your clutch wont slip, and neutral is easy.
from bottom on the clutch adjuster, back out 1/2 turn and lock the nut. then adjust the cable to where the clutch friction point is halfway through the lever movement. this is not per manual, but what actually works
adjusting the cable this way, gives you total disengagement, as well as full spring pressure.
your clutch wont slip, and neutral is easy.
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Jsvwrestle
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06-18-2018 07:54 AM