Hogbob. PM me with your shiping and I will send it out tomorrow. I would like to thank you guys for your mechnical knowledge, in part you sold me on this converstion.

Thank-you,

 

that would explain the primary noise on my 06. when i pulled mine apart to inspect the knocking noise (hd told me it was operating within manufacterers tolerances) all the coned/cupped washers were flat washers. fugured that was the issue and just put it all back together. mabey i'll rip it back apart and just buy the new one ( or just add some shims and mak it a solid deal) and just chuck the old one through the show room window.

 

Treeextractor,

PM sent.

 

fj4069: There's your answer asto why some are quiet and some drive you nuts. They will all fail eventually as these springs have only so many cycles in them before they flatten. Some may be heat treated more and produce a higher working pressure and will live longer. The spring pack can be easily changed, but my problem at the moment is finding a suitable replacement without having to get them custom made. Still working on that. Here's my scoop after carefull examination of the whole mess.
(1) The spring pack is way too weak for the 96 and up engines, and is the sole problem with the comp design.
(2) The cam travel is twice what it should be, which can be changed with the correct disc washers in thickness, stacking methods or amounts.
(3 )In all but idling and light cruise loads the cam reaches it's travel limit and becomes in effect solid or actually worse with it just pounding slightly off the limit and this to me is worse than no comp at all as it produces an impact on the crank and drive train.
(4) Knocking sound, even with tight comp assemlby is cause from the cam tip coming off the flat section of the ramp which is fairlylong running into the ramp. There is not enough spring pressure forcing the cam to flat spot, or resting point to create enough friction so it basically gets a run at the ramp and hits it instead of being at the start of the ramp and going up gently. On mine there is only .030 wear allowance before that tip pressure will no longer be possible. Mind you these components are really hard and that could take 50 years to happen.
(5) Although a good working comp has benifits, if the ids ever happens for the softails it's going in the garbage as the ids will protect the system well enough to go solid on the engine.
(6 )Wear marks from the cam in the sprocket show evidence of the starter clunk as the wear is barely noticable but of equal bottoming out length to the load side but the opposite ramps.
Ron

 

rbabos. I got my comp in hand going to send to Bob but there is no spring. I called my parts guy who did the wrenching for me and said the 07 do not have springs in them but the 06 does?

 

What can I say? He needs tobe taken out to the back room andeducated. The springs are in the altenator rotor, in the small can that sticks out. If you went solid with yours you should flatten the 3 dimples in this housing and remove the discs. Otherwise they will rattle around in there and could become a problem down the road.
Ron

 

Making it solid would be almost impossible as it will require some serious measuring to bottom the spline section on the crank and the cam at the same time. If you don't get it exact, end play on crank won't be held or the cam will rattle between ramps and will be very noisy.
Ron

 

ok I see, I dont have the rotor. I wanted to make sure i have all the parts. Thanks, and I'll take out back for ya.

 

Ok my wrench told me when I "tookout back" that the rotor is still on my bike and that it is attached to the flywheel where it belongs, and then he gave me a black eye

Bob I hope your reading this.

 

Yep I'm reading this, and it would seem that what I really need is the rotor with springs. Oh well, If you already sent the parts, no harm. If not then I guess its back to plan "A", and I'll buy a new rotor spring pack. Thanks for the great info Rbabos.