Hydraulic Clutch for FXDWG?
#1
Hydraulic Clutch for FXDWG?
Hi there.
I'm having problems with my clutch hand and need to ask a couple of questions from anybody who knows about the hydraulic clutch for a Dyna, and a WG specifically.
I previously installed the H-D EZ pull unit like on the '06 Dyna models, and that was pretty easy and works good, but I'm about to add a BB kit, and am afraid the standard clutch with lighter diaphram spring won't hold the additional power (~100ft/lb) or at least it will promote faster wear on the clutch.
I looked up the hydraulic clutch in the '06 catalog, and of course they don't have a complete kit listed for a Dyna at all. It looks like you have to put your own parts together "a al carte" as they say.
Q1) The pictures of kits show a new clutch throw rod. I don't see a throw rod listed separately for a Dyna. Is there one, or do I reuse the original? What part number would it be?
Q2) The catalog lists only a single part for the hydraulic line. Like clutch cables, I suspect each bike has a different length from hydraulic master cylinder to tranny cover. With higher handlebars than most other bikes, how do I know I will get a long enough line, and/or for others, maybe what do you do with the extra line? Does H-D provide compression fittings or something else to let you cut the line to a given length? I don't see any other lengths listed.
Q3) Would I be able to use the hydraulic clutch with heavier duty clutch kits like the SE version, Barnett, extra plates, etc. and retain any benefit of it also providing a reduced effort on a clutch that holds more power?
Q4) Turning Q3 around to a different question. Do "heavier duty clutches" all rely on heavier spring or diaghram rates, or do some of them rely on better friction materials and/or better surface area to get the job done?
Q5) Given my objectives of holding more power and unfortunately having less hand to do the job, what would you recommend?
Oh yes, I almost forgot. I commute and ride a lot on busy city streets in stop and go traffic, so I do a lot of shifting. I don't drag race. I do want to be able to use my new torque in the low and mid range and plan on performing mild middle-gear shifts much more than slipping the clutch under power from dead-stop. Any high power throttle rolls will be on rural roads in the curves and in the mountain passes.[sm=smiley29.gif]
Thanks for any help you can give. Given the price of this option, I don't want to screw up.
I'm having problems with my clutch hand and need to ask a couple of questions from anybody who knows about the hydraulic clutch for a Dyna, and a WG specifically.
I previously installed the H-D EZ pull unit like on the '06 Dyna models, and that was pretty easy and works good, but I'm about to add a BB kit, and am afraid the standard clutch with lighter diaphram spring won't hold the additional power (~100ft/lb) or at least it will promote faster wear on the clutch.
I looked up the hydraulic clutch in the '06 catalog, and of course they don't have a complete kit listed for a Dyna at all. It looks like you have to put your own parts together "a al carte" as they say.
Q1) The pictures of kits show a new clutch throw rod. I don't see a throw rod listed separately for a Dyna. Is there one, or do I reuse the original? What part number would it be?
Q2) The catalog lists only a single part for the hydraulic line. Like clutch cables, I suspect each bike has a different length from hydraulic master cylinder to tranny cover. With higher handlebars than most other bikes, how do I know I will get a long enough line, and/or for others, maybe what do you do with the extra line? Does H-D provide compression fittings or something else to let you cut the line to a given length? I don't see any other lengths listed.
Q3) Would I be able to use the hydraulic clutch with heavier duty clutch kits like the SE version, Barnett, extra plates, etc. and retain any benefit of it also providing a reduced effort on a clutch that holds more power?
Q4) Turning Q3 around to a different question. Do "heavier duty clutches" all rely on heavier spring or diaghram rates, or do some of them rely on better friction materials and/or better surface area to get the job done?
Q5) Given my objectives of holding more power and unfortunately having less hand to do the job, what would you recommend?
Oh yes, I almost forgot. I commute and ride a lot on busy city streets in stop and go traffic, so I do a lot of shifting. I don't drag race. I do want to be able to use my new torque in the low and mid range and plan on performing mild middle-gear shifts much more than slipping the clutch under power from dead-stop. Any high power throttle rolls will be on rural roads in the curves and in the mountain passes.[sm=smiley29.gif]
Thanks for any help you can give. Given the price of this option, I don't want to screw up.
#2
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Texas! Ya mean there's someplace else?
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RE: Hydraulic Clutch for FXDWG?
I too have clutch hand/arm problems. Standard clutch was too much after a day's riding. Since I have done most of my riding with a rocker or suicide clutch I changed my Sloptail over to a suicide clutch and hand shift. I tried a bud's hydraulic clutch and didn't find it to be significantly easier than the stock setup. With a heavy duty spring, I don't think you'd gain anything in the way of easier pull.
Some heavy duty clutches get their holding power from different friction plates, and/or more friction plate surface area. There are several that advertise easier pull. Might want to check out an aftermarket catalog for details.
Some heavy duty clutches get their holding power from different friction plates, and/or more friction plate surface area. There are several that advertise easier pull. Might want to check out an aftermarket catalog for details.
#3
RE: Hydraulic Clutch for FXDWG?
This will take anything you can throw at it as far as power and do it with a clutch handle that feels like it's disconnected from the trans.. http://www.harleyhog.co.uk/hippovpc.htm Frank (Hippo) is a great guy to deal with also. He'll recommend the right unit for your application also.
#4
RE: Hydraulic Clutch for FXDWG?
Thanks Skip and Bill.
I'll look into these various clutch side changes. They sound cheaper than counting on a hydraulic clutch actuator to work the standard clutch, and you guys seem to think they can do it w/o requiring more lever force. That's good news.
Do you know if Hippo's setup or the other suggested plate setups can use the weaker diaphram and ramp I have, or do I need to go backwards and put the heavier diaphrams that I imagine add to pull force?
Skip, I'm curious. I don't know much about vintage bikes. What the heck is a suicide or rocker clutch?
I'll look into these various clutch side changes. They sound cheaper than counting on a hydraulic clutch actuator to work the standard clutch, and you guys seem to think they can do it w/o requiring more lever force. That's good news.
Do you know if Hippo's setup or the other suggested plate setups can use the weaker diaphram and ramp I have, or do I need to go backwards and put the heavier diaphrams that I imagine add to pull force?
Skip, I'm curious. I don't know much about vintage bikes. What the heck is a suicide or rocker clutch?
#5
RE: Hydraulic Clutch for FXDWG?
Do you know if Hippo's setup or the other suggested plate setups can use the weaker diaphram and ramp I have, or do I need to go backwards and put the heavier diaphrams that I imagine add to pull force?
Only drawback is that they do not fit under all fancy derby covers. Hippo will tell you which ones they do not work with.
HippoVPC@gmail.com
The spacer may be needed with some covers for enough clearance.
#6
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#8
Join Date: Dec 2004
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RE: Hydraulic Clutch for FXDWG?
Rocker clutch was the old original foot clutch. It was a heel & toe pedal; toe down and you were moving, heel down and your clutch was disengaged (like you pulled your hand lever in). It had a friction disc and tension spring to hold it in whatever position you wanted it.
The first suicide clutches were simply rocker clutches with worn out or removed friction discs and/or tension springs. You had to keep your foot on it, heel down, to keep the clutch disengaged. Later suicide clutches were made with pedals similar to a brake pedal, instead of the heel & toe pedal. Suicide clutches operate just like a clutch in a car or truck; to disengage the clutch, you push the pedal & hold it in place. If you're tranny is in neutral, you can let off the pedal.
One theory on the suicide name is that many of the old bobbers & chops running a suicide clutch and hand shift had no front brakes. When you came to a stop sign or light on an uphill slope, you had to be able to find neutral, so you could hold the bike on the slope with your left foot, while your right foot was on the brake. If you didn't find neutral, you were fixin' to commit suicid by either going through the intersection against the light, or falling over.
The first suicide clutches were simply rocker clutches with worn out or removed friction discs and/or tension springs. You had to keep your foot on it, heel down, to keep the clutch disengaged. Later suicide clutches were made with pedals similar to a brake pedal, instead of the heel & toe pedal. Suicide clutches operate just like a clutch in a car or truck; to disengage the clutch, you push the pedal & hold it in place. If you're tranny is in neutral, you can let off the pedal.
One theory on the suicide name is that many of the old bobbers & chops running a suicide clutch and hand shift had no front brakes. When you came to a stop sign or light on an uphill slope, you had to be able to find neutral, so you could hold the bike on the slope with your left foot, while your right foot was on the brake. If you didn't find neutral, you were fixin' to commit suicid by either going through the intersection against the light, or falling over.
#9
RE: Hydraulic Clutch for FXDWG?
Skip,
Thanks for the great explanation of the terms "rocker" and "suicide" clutch. Guess I'm glad they went to hand lever versions of them these days.
I checked out the video on the AIM version of the centrifical clutch setup. Kind of an artsy video, but it showed off both how easy the hand lever can be to pull, and showed how the force is applied to the plates as RPM increase. I'd better save some bucks.
Thanks for the great explanation of the terms "rocker" and "suicide" clutch. Guess I'm glad they went to hand lever versions of them these days.
I checked out the video on the AIM version of the centrifical clutch setup. Kind of an artsy video, but it showed off both how easy the hand lever can be to pull, and showed how the force is applied to the plates as RPM increase. I'd better save some bucks.
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