Hey Gang,

I need to pull the primary drive (compensating sprocket, primary chain and clutch) on my 04 Fat Boy to check the stator/rotor.

I removed the outer primary cover and realized I don't have all the tools I need. Does anyone know what type of snap ring pliers I need to remove the snap spring holding the pressure plate on the clutch? Also, I need to know the socket sizes for the main bolt/nut securing the compensating sprocket (looks like 1.5" socket will do) and the main clutch mounting bolt (I'm told this takes a 1 3/16", "deep" socket...I don't know how deep.

Can anyone tell me exactly the pliers and socket size (diameter and depth) I will need to pull the compensating sprocket and clutch?

Will I need any other special tools to replace the rotor/stator if needed? BTW - I'll be using a wedge of wood to lock the primary chain/sprockets to loosen/reinstall these bolts/nuts.

Thanks gang

 

Funny, I needed to know the same thing on my "98". Did a search and came up with a 3 year old post and no one came to his rescue. Not even the standard "buy a manual" answer that isn't very helpful. I have done it before but borrowed the tools. I want to purchase my own now. Oh, I do have a manual but loaned it to a friend that is out of town this week end until after the 4th.

 

You will need a 1-3/16" deep socket for the clutch hub retaining nut.

Not sure what size the compensator nut is on your bike, it is 1-1/2 inch on the older bikes (like mine).

And if you read your service manual carefully, you will see that the clutch hub is left hand thread.

Your best bet to immobilize the clutch and compensator is to use a steel bar, the block of wood thing can make a mess.

 

Thank You Dan! I did the primary twice and hate borrowing tools. I use an impact so holding the clutch is not a problem.

 

i believe the comp nut is either 3/4 or 7/8.. i have the SE comp on mine and IIRC, its a different size then the orig. either way a standard 1/2 drive socket set 1/2 - 1 1/4 should have the correct socket.

the 1 3/16 i used on the clutch hub main nut was a standard depth socket, just used a short extension to clear the clutch hub.

the snap ring pliers would be a "internal" snap ring plier set.

 

A 1-1/2" socket is needed for an Evo compensator nut.

 

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go to do-it yourself forum, trans/clutch and look up my thread called compensator sprocket. I just did this and if you want to avoid some issues, it'll save you time and money. Dan89 was a great help as well!!

 

here's my post after I finished the job...

Thanks to all that replied... after breaking and bending a screw driver, nearly my back and breaking my primary chain, I finally got the nut loose. Here is my confirmation (contrary to some of the things I read on this sight) that the compensator nut loosens counter clockwise and the clutch hub nut loosens clockwise.

You will need a 1 1/2" socket for the compensator nut and 1 3/16" socket for clutch hub nut, a "cheater" bar for leverage and primary chain locking tool. I made a flat bar used between sprockets and ordered the "stair case" tool (A MUST IN MY BOOK) It took the help of my buddy sit on the bike applying the rear brake HARD while bike is in 5th gear and the use of BOTH tools @ once to break the nut free. Do give the nut a couple "taps" with a hammer. YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE INNER PRIMARY!!!

After loosening the nut, I was able to EASILY replace the stater and chain, adjust the clutch and re-install everything in 45 minutes. Torque comp. nut to 160 f/lb. and clutch nut to 70-80 f/lbs (use RED lock-tite, but NOT TOO MUCH).

At the end of the day, this job cost 12.45 for tool, 78.00 for replacement chain, 54.00 for stater and 8.00 for quart of Mobil One synthetic for a total cost of $152.45. (If you follow my method, you won't need the new chain that broke when I tried the "screw driver method")

All in all, this was a real pain to go through, all because the connection wires from the stater had erroded and corroded and the rubber sleave had turned to mush. However, I now could do it in my sleep. Again, thanks to all and I hope this will help anyone who doesn't have, or want to use an impact wrench. Good Luck. Ride Safe!

 

Oh ya, just need two Allen Wrenches in the holes on the rotor to remove. It has strong magnets, but it'll come off with a little effort.