Main Drive Shaft Oil Seal - Replacement Cost at Dealer?
#11
09-06-2009, 08:47 AM
I have a friend that has had this issue...and still does after we replaced the seal. The dealer wanted $350-or-so, but we replaced it on our own. You just have to pull everything off the left side of the bike to get to it. Anyway, like one post above...it still leaks a little. The dealer told him not to put so much fluid in there. Yea...sure...the way to stop any leak is just not put the fluid in. The next time we do this I have an idea of what I plan to do. Seals can be obtained in just about any configuration and the numbers on the seal relate to diameter, thickness and center-hole diameter. I think we will try one with a smaller inside (shaft hole) diameter. Not much mind you, but maybe a mm or so smaller for a better fit. A new sleeve should do the same, but it seems to me a little smaller seal would also and you won't have to pull that sleeve.
Replacing the seal with one with a smaller inside diamater may be fine for a tractor with a worn shaft, but the seal in your transmission does not contact the shaft, it contacts the spacer, and you can and should replace the spacer and quad seal whenever the big oil seal is replaced. That way your brand new seal is riding on a brand new sealing surface.
These seals don`t leak because they are a bad design, they leak because they are in constant attack from dirt, sand, mud etc. It eventually gets in between the spacer and seal and then the seal starts to go...That is why you must replace the spacer along with the seal.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; 03-07-2010 at 09:12 AM.
#12
09-07-2009, 06:38 PM
The mainshaft and the main drive gear can be damaged by a bad seal or what ever is in between the seal and the shaft,, there's a seal for the mainshaft in the end of the main drive gear which the mainshaft runs through at least on the FLH's.
Is the spacer you're referring to,,, the inner bearing race and seal surface for inner primary roller bearing??
Three seals to change as said,, inner primary roller bearing seal,,,, seal for the main drive gear for the mainshaft, and the seal for the main drive gear in the tranny case. Don't forget the quad seal ring as previously said,, it helps keep chit out of the seal.
A trick I would try for a nagging reproducing seal leak is to move the seal in or out a few thousands away from the original seal wear ring and try to get a new smooth surface,,, also inspect the shaft/s very closely in good light to make sure there's no damage that wouldn't allow the seals to seal properly such as pitting or indentation, make sure you lube the seal very well and there's no sharp edges or burrs on the shafts that go through them. Good luck with it.
Is the spacer you're referring to,,, the inner bearing race and seal surface for inner primary roller bearing??
Three seals to change as said,, inner primary roller bearing seal,,,, seal for the main drive gear for the mainshaft, and the seal for the main drive gear in the tranny case. Don't forget the quad seal ring as previously said,, it helps keep chit out of the seal.
A trick I would try for a nagging reproducing seal leak is to move the seal in or out a few thousands away from the original seal wear ring and try to get a new smooth surface,,, also inspect the shaft/s very closely in good light to make sure there's no damage that wouldn't allow the seals to seal properly such as pitting or indentation, make sure you lube the seal very well and there's no sharp edges or burrs on the shafts that go through them. Good luck with it.
#13
09-07-2009, 07:25 PM
Is the spacer you're referring to,,, the inner bearing race and seal surface for inner primary roller bearing??
A trick I would try for a nagging reproducing seal leak is to move the seal in or out a few thousands away from the original seal wear ring and try to get a new smooth surface.
The seal between the main drive gear and the mainshaft would cause the lube to leak on the side of the pulley nearest the primary cover. That is a seal that I think is often overlooked when chasing a leak.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; 09-07-2009 at 07:28 PM.
#14
09-07-2009, 08:21 PM
As a first and temporary step, I will drain the transmission and replace the oil with dino gear oil. I'll watch the area around the seal to see if leaks persist. And I'll stop at the dealership service department and ask how much full replacement of these seals costs. I'll post the answer here. Wish me luck!
#15
09-07-2009, 08:33 PM
Got ya,,, I was thinking after I replied that you might be talking about that one, I agree that seal is often over looked.
The spacer I`m referring to is the one that is on the mainshaft, behind the pulley, it`s outer surface is the sealing surface for the big rubber seal that is over the big ball bearing. That is the seal that Paul suspects is leaking.
The seal between the main drive gear and the mainshaft would cause the lube to leak on the side of the pulley nearest the primary cover. That is a seal that I think is often overlooked when chasing a leak.
The seal between the main drive gear and the mainshaft would cause the lube to leak on the side of the pulley nearest the primary cover. That is a seal that I think is often overlooked when chasing a leak.
#16
09-07-2009, 08:46 PM
If you have a reputable indy mechanic in your area, I would price them as well. Good luck.
As a first and temporary step, I will drain the transmission and replace the oil with dino gear oil. I'll watch the area around the seal to see if leaks persist. And I'll stop at the dealership service department and ask how much full replacement of these seals costs. I'll post the answer here. Wish me luck!
#17
09-08-2009, 03:42 PM
#18
09-08-2009, 05:42 PM
Parts will cost about 100 bucks, if you have them change all the seals.
#19
09-08-2009, 07:03 PM
My .02, take the $300 you were going to spend at the dealer and buy a Service Manual and a couple of tools special tools (Compensator socket, clutch hub socket, and mainshaft bearing inner race tool). George's Garage is where I have bought several of my tools. Order a bearing kit from Baker for the inner primary and you won't have to reinstall the race. Only other tool other than normal hand tools you'll need is an air compressor and 1/2" impact wrench. You'll "want" the impact wrench for removing the compensator nut and clutch hub nut (you can get by without it but you'll probably do a lot of cursing!) This way, you'll spend around $200 and have the tools for later jobs. Honestly, this isn't a hard fix at all. Good Luck
#20
09-08-2009, 10:36 PM