Main Drive Shaft Oil Seal - Replacement Cost at Dealer?
#21
I think I have the same leak being discussed here
My 06 Deluxe has a leak that I suspect is coming from the transmission, I'm just not sure how it's getting from the transmission to the outside of the pulley. What path is it following? Drops form on the outside of the pulley, and then (because of the lean angle when parked?), drips on the backside of the primary and then on to the ground. After the engine cools down, it will drip a few times and then stop. Based on the photo below, do you think I have a problem on the tranny side or primary side or both??? Based on the clean color of the oil, I think it's from the tranny side (I just replaced the tranny oil).
I wish I were in Idaho Falls. If I could get this fixed for $250 labor plus parts I'd be making my appointment right now. Up here with our $95-$100/hr labor charge, I'm probably looking at $500+. Various posts say it's an easy fix, just labor intensive. Plus you need the specialty tools. I wonder if it's worth it to invest in the tools and tear the bike apart this winter? I'm somewhat mechanically inclined but by no means a mechanic. I'm worried that I'll screw things up worse and then have to have the bike trailered to the shop.
I wish I were in Idaho Falls. If I could get this fixed for $250 labor plus parts I'd be making my appointment right now. Up here with our $95-$100/hr labor charge, I'm probably looking at $500+. Various posts say it's an easy fix, just labor intensive. Plus you need the specialty tools. I wonder if it's worth it to invest in the tools and tear the bike apart this winter? I'm somewhat mechanically inclined but by no means a mechanic. I'm worried that I'll screw things up worse and then have to have the bike trailered to the shop.
#22
Glen, from your descriptions and picture I would expect to find the leak coming from the seal that goes into the end of the main drive gear. That seal goes for about 2 bucks, but like I mentioned in a previous post, once you go in that far I suggest replacing all the seals and the spacer.
#23
#24
Glen, from your descriptions and picture I would expect to find the leak coming from the seal that goes into the end of the main drive gear. That seal goes for about 2 bucks, but like I mentioned in a previous post, once you go in that far I suggest replacing all the seals and the spacer.
Exactly, you have a couple of seals there, and I think the smaller one is the culpret. But, as mentioned, you would need the instalation tool to put a new spacer on the maion shaft. I usually cut the old one off, but would not recommend that to those who have never done it before.That's really the biggest part of the job. The outer , inner primary , clutch assembly and primary drive is about a 30 minute job to remove. Also, depending on how many miles on the bike, you may want to go ahead and replace the final drive belt if you have over 30k miles on it. You can buy the tool online for about $75 to remove the shaft spacer and reinstall. Hope that helps.
#25
My .02, take the $300 you were going to spend at the dealer and buy a Service Manual and a couple of tools special tools (Compensator socket, clutch hub socket, and mainshaft bearing inner race tool). George's Garage is where I have bought several of my tools. Order a bearing kit from Baker for the inner primary and you won't have to reinstall the race. Only other tool other than normal hand tools you'll need is an air compressor and 1/2" impact wrench. You'll "want" the impact wrench for removing the compensator nut and clutch hub nut (you can get by without it but you'll probably do a lot of cursing!) This way, you'll spend around $200 and have the tools for later jobs. Honestly, this isn't a hard fix at all. Good Luck
DO NOT USE AN IMPACT ON YOUR COMPENSATOR OR CLUTCH HUB. Use a breaker bar ,with a cheater pipe to loosen both nuts. NEVER use an impact on these two.NEVER
#26
#27
My 06 Deluxe has a leak that I suspect is coming from the transmission, I'm just not sure how it's getting from the transmission to the outside of the pulley. What path is it following? Drops form on the outside of the pulley, and then (because of the lean angle when parked?), drips on the backside of the primary and then on to the ground. After the engine cools down, it will drip a few times and then stop. Based on the photo below, do you think I have a problem on the tranny side or primary side or both??? Based on the clean color of the oil, I think it's from the tranny side (I just replaced the tranny oil).
I wish I were in Idaho Falls. If I could get this fixed for $250 labor plus parts I'd be making my appointment right now. Up here with our $95-$100/hr labor charge, I'm probably looking at $500+. Various posts say it's an easy fix, just labor intensive. Plus you need the specialty tools. I wonder if it's worth it to invest in the tools and tear the bike apart this winter? I'm somewhat mechanically inclined but by no means a mechanic. I'm worried that I'll screw things up worse and then have to have the bike trailered to the shop.
I wish I were in Idaho Falls. If I could get this fixed for $250 labor plus parts I'd be making my appointment right now. Up here with our $95-$100/hr labor charge, I'm probably looking at $500+. Various posts say it's an easy fix, just labor intensive. Plus you need the specialty tools. I wonder if it's worth it to invest in the tools and tear the bike apart this winter? I'm somewhat mechanically inclined but by no means a mechanic. I'm worried that I'll screw things up worse and then have to have the bike trailered to the shop.
#28
My .02, take the $300 you were going to spend at the dealer and buy a Service Manual and a couple of tools special tools (Compensator socket, clutch hub socket, and mainshaft bearing inner race tool). George's Garage is where I have bought several of my tools. Order a bearing kit from Baker for the inner primary and you won't have to reinstall the race. Only other tool other than normal hand tools you'll need is an air compressor and 1/2" impact wrench. You'll "want" the impact wrench for removing the compensator nut and clutch hub nut (you can get by without it but you'll probably do a lot of cursing!) This way, you'll spend around $200 and have the tools for later jobs. Honestly, this isn't a hard fix at all. Good Luck
#29
I appreciate all the responses. Lots of good information. I don't know how anyone can own a Harley and not belong to one of these forums. Like OneBlackFly, I don't want to tackle this problem either, but money, or the lack thereof, is a good motivator to try to fix it myself. There seems to be different opinions on whether the leak is damaging the bike (dirt in seal scoring the shaft?). If I knew for sure no harm was happening, I would opt for just topping the tranny off once a month. Wouldn't be more that a quart during our short riding season up here.
Last edited by gforrest2; 09-11-2009 at 12:41 AM. Reason: forgot a word
#30
I would not change a drivebelt unless it had over 80K on it unless it had some obvious damage. My last drivebelt went 115k.