Clutch Adjustment By The Book
#172
06-17-2018, 08:17 AM
Cruiser
#173
06-19-2018, 10:35 AM
Novice
Join Date: May 2018
Location: ny
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#174
06-19-2018, 11:16 AM
Seasoned HDF Member
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18deluxerider (12-28-2019)
#175
07-15-2018, 07:04 AM
Novice
Hello all. Hard time finding a thread that addresses my issue exactly. 01 RK. Removed the inner primary to do the shift seal replacement . Putting it all back together and have the compensator and tranny basket back in. Doing the clutch adjustment but the lever will now not move at all, and the tranny doesn't move at all. I must have put something back together wrong. It's as if the push rod is jammed or something . Any words of wisdom before I start over ?
#176
07-15-2018, 08:34 AM
Seasoned HDF Member
Hello all. Hard time finding a thread that addresses my issue exactly. 01 RK. Removed the inner primary to do the shift seal replacement . Putting it all back together and have the compensator and tranny basket back in. Doing the clutch adjustment but the lever will now not move at all, and the tranny doesn't move at all. I must have put something back together wrong. It's as if the push rod is jammed or something . Any words of wisdom before I start over ?
#177
04-10-2019, 03:47 PM
Juice clutch adjustment
With hydraulics, you only have one adjustment... the pushrod length. If it's too long, the piston will bottom out and not let the clutch engage fully, if it's too short, the piston may reach the limit of it's travel and not disengage the clutch fully.
To adjust, loosen the locknut at the clutch hub, slowly turn the adjustment screw in until the piston bottoms and starts to lift the pressure plate, then back off until the pressure plate lands and back off an additional turn to allow for clutch plate wear.
Lock the screw and you're done. If the lever is too squishy or doesn't fully release the clutch, you may have air bubbles in the hydraulic system.
To adjust, loosen the locknut at the clutch hub, slowly turn the adjustment screw in until the piston bottoms and starts to lift the pressure plate, then back off until the pressure plate lands and back off an additional turn to allow for clutch plate wear.
Lock the screw and you're done. If the lever is too squishy or doesn't fully release the clutch, you may have air bubbles in the hydraulic system.
#178
06-08-2019, 05:16 PM
I tried the manual version (now, i know the procedure from outside) and tried the easy way.
Both way are easy and worked for me, but somehow, I decide to use the procedure from the manual, I'm new into Harleys and better I first use the normal way.
I had to do it, because a very bad shifting 92 Softail, to the first gear I waked up my neightbours, the 2nd and so like a russian t34 tank. Shifting downwards often 2 or 3 attemps with force. Neutral never found with l the tricks.
But...........it seems it wasn't the clutch but a Primairy chain who much to tight and to many oil in de prime.
But have to say, next time the easy way. It's very easy to follow it
Both way are easy and worked for me, but somehow, I decide to use the procedure from the manual, I'm new into Harleys and better I first use the normal way.
I had to do it, because a very bad shifting 92 Softail, to the first gear I waked up my neightbours, the 2nd and so like a russian t34 tank. Shifting downwards often 2 or 3 attemps with force. Neutral never found with l the tricks.
But...........it seems it wasn't the clutch but a Primairy chain who much to tight and to many oil in de prime.
But have to say, next time the easy way. It's very easy to follow it
#180
08-15-2020, 11:19 AM
2007 Sportster 1200
I've adjusted several times but it's either a hard neutral where the bike wants to walk forward with clutch in or on the other end of the adjustment, the clutch slips when torque applied. I just can't seem to find a "happy adjustment". What should I try next... cable replacement or does this sound like a clutch rebuild. Thanks.