Clutch Adjustment Technique By The Book


Let's go over the basics of clutch adjustment on late motorcycle models.

Ideally, you want the motorcycle to be on a lift or stand. The procedure can be done on the kickstand but, some primary fluid may leak out.

Back off the cable adjuster until the adjuster is fully collapsed.

Remove the derby cover and set aside.

Loosen the clutch adjuster lock nut two turns.

Turn the clutch adjuster in until it seats against the clutch release. Seated means that it is touching but not pushing against the release. At this time the clutch lever should have very little play.

Back the adjuster out 1/2 to 1 full turn from seated. Repeat this several times to get all the play out.

Lock the adjuster nut down while holding the adjuster from turning.

Work the clutch lever several times before adjusting the free play at the cable adjuster. Adjust the free play to 1/16" to 1/8" as measured at the pivot. I usually add just a little slack as a personal preference.

Work the clutch several times to make sure operation is smooth and no binding in any part of the travel.

Install the derby cover after topping off primary oil if needed.

Perform a test ride and adjust the free play as needed to get the engagement and release points correct.
If you cannot adjust the clutch free play with the cable adjuster, the cable may be stretched or frayed. If the cable has been replaced, the wrong cable may have been installed.

A worn or warped clutch pack will often feel as if the adjustment is bad because it tends to make the release and engagement jerky. If after adjusting the free play you still have clutch operation problems it may be time to take a look at the clutch.

You can also see "Clutch adjustment the easy way" in this same forum found... HERE

 

Ever take the cutch off? With the drive Chain? What's the trick to putting the clutch back on? Seems like I need just a little more chain.

 

Is the jam nut inside the derby cover a reverse thread? Mine has been tightened so much it doesn't want to break free.

 

- jam nut is normal thread.

- adjusting rod is also normal thread.

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jaycoxt - take your primary chain shoe completely loose, and if your primary chain is sufficiently worn, you may have enough slack in the chain to allow you to get the clutch hub off. If your chain is relatively new and tight, you'll have to take the front compensator sprocket off as well.

Hogdoctor

 

Thanks for the help. I used a longer handle socket to loosen it.

 

By "Back off the cable adjuster until the adjuster is fully collapsed." does that put slack into the cable? And if there is slack in cable working the lever wouldn't do anything becuase of the slack in the cable, or am I missing something?

Rob

 

you will put a lot of slack in the cable by collapsing the adjuster... this is necessary so you can adjust the pushrod endplay correctly.. after which you will extend the cable slack adjuster to take up the slack...

trust the process...

Hogdoctor

 

Hogdoctor, should the bike be in nueutral when adjusting the clutch or does it matter?

Is there a chance of the cable not being seated right in the ball-n-ramp setup in the transmission side cover. After I adjusted the clutch this last time the clutch lever won't come all the way back to the grip when pulled in and feels tight. I have lubed it and it shifts gears fine and doesn't grip forward at traffic lights with the clutch pulled in while in gear.

 

It's possible that if there is excessive pushrod endplay, making the throwout bearing bump up against the end of the mainshaft. Try reducing the pushrod endplay to 1/4 turn and see if that makes a difference.

Hogdoctor