great video explaination, but what about adjusting the cable again? is there a video for that? thanks

 

how would i get the clutch to release closer to the hand grip than near the top travel of the lever?

 

Like was said earlier, You want the clutch to release closer to the grip, back off adjuster, after slight tension is felt, closer to 3/4 to 1 turn. You want it to release farther from the grip, back of the adjuster just the 1/2 turn. In effect when you are adjusting the pushtube, you really are setting where the ball and ramps start to disengage the clutch. Took me a while to realize what all was going on with this but once I got my mind to actually wrap around this concept it makes complete sense the reasoning behind the the 1/2 and 1 turn.

 

Truly an excellent explanation.
go on man

 

Best. Reply. Ever.

I've read countless posts on how to properly adjust a clutch, watched all the great videos, read the Service Manuals, etc.

I've researched the subject so much, I feel like I could probably teach a class on how to adjust a clutch.

And still, no one ever mentions what you described above.

Thanks.

 

If you don't understand what's going on,, use what works for you, fer sure..

 

The cable clutch is definitely a pretty simple system, but this is the first time I've ever heard anyone make mention of this all too common pitfall when describing the basic how-to of clutch adjustment. This problem had me scratching my head when I was first learning.

Kudos to the Gentleman for the additional, but critical, info.

 

You talking about step #3? Not needed when then clutch is adjusted correctly. The problem is that when screw the center adjuster in so that it stops, you need to go until it pulls all of the slack out of the cable. You don't need to push the arm..

Heck I've seen some believe that you need to put a return spring on the cable end to get it to work.

Also #2 is not correct. You need to loosen the cable all the way not "alot"

 

Yes, I'm referring to step #3.

I've previously had difficulty trying to adjust a clutch when, unbeknown to me, the ramp tang was somehow inadvertently placed in the forward most position (the end) of it's travel. This condition would result in a clutch lever that could not be pulled in after the cable was adjusted to 1/16"-1/8" at the perch.

Are you suggesting that step #3 is not necessary? Other than manually pushing the cable into the housing, how would I verify that the ramp was in its rearward position before continuing? Are you also suggesting that when screwing the center adjuster inward, I continue past the point of 'light resistance'? Please explain.

With respect to step #2, I think my Service Manual instructs to collapse the cable adjuster to introduce an 'excessive amount of freeplay'. That seems pretty vague, and like yourself, I collapse the cable adjuster all the way.

I think I've seen the spring mod you're referring to on another Forum. Have never tried it myself.

Thanks

 

All you need to do is crew the center adjuster in until it gets hard to screw in.. It does the same thing.. The arm will pull back. The problem is that you are not going far enough when you feel the adjuster get hard to turn. Heck if you want add 1/2 turn after the stop.. It won't hurt anything. You still need to back it off another 1/2 to full turn after the screw starts to come loose. It wouldn't surprise me that most that have issues don't turn the screw in far enough.. As a result, you get all these better ways to adjust the clutch that take more time and don't really do anything.