23 tooth compensator sprocket for 3.42:1 final
 

I've got a 1999 flhtc carb bike. Being carb I was given 3.15:1 ratio from factory. Compensator sprocket 25 tooth Clutch sprocket 36 tooth. I've read where (I think) I can use a 23 tooth compensator sprocket and flip my adjuster to make up slack in chain.....This should put me at 3.42:1. Baker says this is not a good combination because you lose ability to adjust the chain and the lump is too big to make up slack. I know guys have done this and I wonder if it is a bad idea? On Bakers website it shows 9% torque increase and requires a different adjuster shoe. It specifies no need to get shorter chain unless you get a 21 tooth. Their website and the tech guy contradict each other. Anyone have experience only changing compensator sprocket?

It's not that it can't be done it is just that we have seen people have chain adjustment issues after they've done it. Kind of a friendly warning, but it is your bike so do as you wish.

I guess I was confused when talking to the tech guy. So If I go with a 22 or 23 tooth sprocket do I need to flip my old style '94 to '00 adjuster. OR do I need to get the newer style and get the fat adjuster shoe? There is a possibility that I have the newer adjuster already because the previous owner told me the adjuster was replaced. Whether they updated while replacing I don't know. Baker website says 22, 23, tooth sprockets do not require chain but the newer adjuster and fat shoe, I think? I also found an instruction sheet for these sprocket kits that says to flip the adjuster.....it was a Baker instruction sheet...... haha, sorry and thanks for replying.

To change your compensator you need to remove the clutch and chain. So install the correct length chain, to match your compensator! Don't be a cheapskate. I used a 21T on one of my bikes with appropriate chain, with complete satisfaction, although that may be a bit extreme for your needs. Harley used to sell an SE kit with that size. The forces that go through that chain on occasion are pretty impressive, which is why it's a triple row, so do the job right!

grbrown, with all due respect I'm Not trying to be a cheapskate at all, although admittedly I do not want to pay over $500 to be at 3.37:1 with 24 comp and 37 clutch. I intended to purchase a 23 tooth comp AND the correct length chain but when I got on Baker's site to research and possibly purchase, the foot notes for the 23 tooth sprocket part number 157-56, says that it requires 39990-01 (The 2001 and up adjuster) AND a Fat shoe. It says part number 155-56 (21 tooth) requires a shorter chain.

I can't purchase the 23 tooth comp sprocket and the correct length chain when the correct length chain is stock with a different adjuster shoe according to Baker's. Point is there is no chain offered for the 23 tooth that I can find.

Bakers instruction sheet for the 23 tooth sprocket install says you need the OLD style adjuster and it needs to be flipped, and I quote as I read the PDF file from my phone; " ! ON ALL 2001 TO 2006 MODELS USING 22 OR 23 TOOTH COMBINATIONS IT WILL BE NECESSARY TO REPLACE THE CHAIN TENSIONER WITH THE EARLIER VERSION FOUND ON 1985-2000 BIG TWIN MODELS AND FLIP OVER THE ADJUSTER SHOE AS WELL"

Right above that on the instruction sheet it reads, "For 21/37 or 21/36 primaries use the 74 pitch chain."

"For 22/37, 22/36, 23/37, ***23/36***the one I want, or 24/36 use the STOCK 76 pitch chain length and FLIP THE SHOE AS SHOWN."

SO which is it?? Old style flipped adjuster? New style adjuster with fat shoe? Or is this no longer a good set up at all even though I could have blindly purchased it on the website looking for my 9% torque increase??

If you plan on buying Baker parts, it will be simpler to give them a call to talk things through and answer your queries.

That's the problem, I did so, prepared to order the parts and the guy told me it was not a good set up! That's what started the entire confusion. If it's not a good setup then why can it be purchased with instructions to tell you how to do it?! The guy was very nice and Baker is well known and respected so I wanted to buy from them. He was NOT trying to sell me anything else like comp and clutch shell to make more money. I just don't understand why this is not a good setup when they clearly sell it the way its sold, just as I want to do it....

I've searched other forums and guys talk about plans to do it but then never post their results after doing it.

Okay guys I talked to Bakers again and they are very very nice and patient with me. Turns out the 23 tooth is not even available anymore. I give in, not a good idea to change only comp sprocket. The guy I talked to mentioned changing transmission belt pulley. I ran some math and would like to do 30 tooth for 3.36 final. Or 29 tooth for 3.47 final. I realized this is a bigger job but I'm up for it. Does anyone know how to correct my speedo with pulley change on a 1999?

just to clarify 23/36 uses 76p chain and the old style tensioner flipped
23/37 uses 76p chain and fat shoe.
if your changing your rear pulley you will need a speedo recalibration unit. We use Dakota digital but other companies make them too.
Our opinion and the reason we have not purchased more of the 23 tooth sprockets is that it puts the chain on a horrible angle that can be 1)noisy 2)(depending on the aggressiveness of the rider) possible shortened chain life.

Thanks for the info. You guys are awesome. Takes patience to have great customer service and you guys have it! You mention rear pulley change....does this mean no speedo correction with front tranny pulley change? I don't know where speed sensor is.... Thanks