Hi folks,

I have an 08 Streetglide with 38,000 miles on it. For the last couple of years, I've occasionally have the starter make clunking and grinding noises when the bike is warm and it has gotten progressively worse.
On two separate occasions this year, I've gone to start the bike and absolutely nothing happened when the starter button was pushed. Everything was light up on the dash, the fuel pump powered up, just nothing when you push the button. On both occasions I was able to get the bike started with a push. I've gone through all the wiring and connections and although the battery is the original, it reads good on the battery tester.
Yesterday, after a brief stop after riding the bike for a while, the starter started to engage but then gave me the normal clunk, but this time all of the dash lights went out and the bike was dead. as it turns out the main 40 amp fuse had blown. A quick fuse change restored power, but immediately upon pushing the starter button, the fuse blew. I replaced the fuse and once again it blew right away. I immediately deduced that I had a dead short some where, either the solenoid or the starter itself.
I then replaced the fuse and push started the bike to get it home. Once I had it home and strapped onto the lift , I decided to push the button one more time to be sure that the fuse would blow right away. This time it fired right up. I stop and started it several more times and it worked every time.

1st question: Does anyone have any insight into why the fuse would blow 2 times in a row and then not after the bike had been bum started. Maybe something stuck in the starter?

I've been reading some previous posts here and a couple of other sites and I understand that the starter is a weak point and there is pretty good evidence that the starter failure is accelerated by a poorly designed compensator which ended up in a redesign by the MoCo in 2014. I'm going to tear things apart to see what I find, but in all likelihood, I'll end up swapping out the starter.

2nd question: If I change the starter and not bother with modifications to the compensator, which in itself is about $500 bucks from the local Stealer, could I expect to get another 20 or 25 K out of the new starter or is the original compensator getting progressively worn and adding load to the starter?

3rd question: As far as a replacement starter, The HD replacement is $487, so I will probably go after market. I see that JP cycle has a starter by Evolution for just over $300 and another by All ***** for about $380. Any recommendations?

 

All ***** if you're replacing the starter. But, do check your stock compensator as well as your starter clutch and ring gear. Also consider checking the bottom of the starter after removal to see what it looks like. There is a bulletin called "big twin starter fasteners" that will shed light on this issue, mostly with 07's but some 08's had it.

 

on initial start, electric motors draw max current. if anything prevents the motor from spinning up, the fuse will blow. Starter clutch is a good place to start, also examine the pinion/ring gear.

 

If something prevents the starter from spinning up, the starter will draw as much amperage as it can to overcome it, until it burns up or the battery cables melt, or the battery dies.

The starter motor will not cause a fuse to blow, because there is no fuse in the circuit, the starter motor is connected directly to the battery.

OP:

Don`t troubleshoot an electrical problem by replacing the most expensive item first.

Spend your money on a factory service manual, then look at the wiring diagram, you will see that the starter motor is not on a fused circuit, it draws its power directly from the battery, just like every automotive starter.

Since the main fuse is the fuse that is blowing, follow these wires:

Between the main fuse and the ignition switch.

Between the ignition switch and the fuse blocks.

Between the ignition switch and the starter and lighting relays.

Check the wire that goes from the starter relay to the starter solenoid (green wire).