Motor has epic fail at 21k
Just got back from the blackhills put 2000 miles on in a week and it was time for my 20k service new tires, had a ticking sound after the service, they said it was the seals on the Exhaust and they replaced them. They also find a mount that was missing a bolt. Well I got the bike home 62 miles and the next day I went to ride it when it started to really make a chatter, long story short it's back at the shop with 21k on it and not Rideable... It's a 2015 cvo street glide. I'm bummed
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110 strikes again.
Sorry about the disappointment friend; I hope you get it sorted out to your satisfaction. |
I too noticed a ticking sound in my 2009 CVO but at 52K miles! Dealer diagnosed it as a spun bearing. They rebuilt the engine and said they replaced everything that the oil touched. I had an extended warranty so no charge!!! It now has 92K miles and still running strong.
Best wishes, Bob |
IF you have ESP, your bike will be covered.
Great time to go bigger, SE 117" Big Bore Motor kit!!! I'm sure you have read all the details regarding them. At least, upgrade to aftermarket lifters and Beehive valve springs of choice. YB |
Originally Posted by 09 YELLOWBIRD
(Post 16444783)
IF you have ESP, your bike will be covered.
Great time to go bigger, SE 117" Big Bore Motor kit!!! I'm sure you have read all the details regarding them. At least, upgrade to aftermarket lifters and Beehive valve springs of choice. YB |
Originally Posted by 5150northrider
(Post 16445036)
I was really happy with the way it ran out of the box... they are going to look at it this afternoon waiting on pins and needles. The thing that is bothering me is the wife has a slim s so I pray it isn't going to do the same. I really just want to ride the bikes the way they came from the factory, never thought about having to fix a new bike because it was going to die if left stock?
It truly is a shame to spent $40K on a bike (or anything with a motor) only got to go kaboom with little to no mileage! But at least go with aftermarket lifters and Beehive valve springs IF you can. Good luck and keep us all posted. YB |
Originally Posted by 09 YELLOWBIRD
(Post 16445247)
It truly is a shame to spent $40K on a bike (or anything with a motor) only got to go kaboom with little to no mileage!
But at least go with aftermarket lifters and Beehive valve springs IF you can. Good luck and keep us all posted. YB |
Originally Posted by 5150northrider
(Post 16445567)
I have a good dealership service so they will definitely give me good advice not just try and make $ and send me on my way. I will let you know when I get the word hopping this afternoon. They sent a trailer to get it yesterday 120 miles round trip on them to get it
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the 110 are known to have several weak spots, being
- cam bearings (earlier models) - lifter failure, often as early as 20K miles (likely your issue) - Valve springs that are too stiff, causing the weak lifters to fail - valve guides that are know to drop (should be replaced with good brass guides) - crank end play Make sure to discuss the crank end play with them while they have the motor apart. Harley spec is crazy at something like 0.012", whereas most engine builders will say any more than 0.005" is bad. If over 0.005" then consider having your crank done. as for upgrading to 117" you could also consider going to 113", which keeps your current cylinders, saving you some money. If it's your lifters that caused the failure, seriously consider have the valve springs changed and use a better lifter, like S&S Take this opportunity to build it to last rather than patch it with the same problem parts |
Originally Posted by JKM
(Post 16450306)
the 110 are known to have several weak spots, being
- cam bearings (earlier models) - lifter failure, often as early as 20K miles (likely your issue) - Valve springs that are too stiff, causing the weak lifters to fail - valve guides that are know to drop (should be replaced with good brass guides) - crank end play Make sure to discuss the crank end play with them while they have the motor apart. Harley spec is crazy at something like 0.012", whereas most engine builders will say any more than 0.005" is bad. If over 0.005" then consider having your crank done. as for upgrading to 117" you could also consider going to 113", which keeps your current cylinders, saving you some money. If it's your lifters that caused the failure, seriously consider have the valve springs changed and use a better lifter, like S&S Take this opportunity to build it to last rather than patch it with the same problem parts |
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