I posted this in the Evo section yesterday. Got quite a few hits but no replies. My bike has a primary case more similar to a Shovel than later Evo. I don't normally post in multiple sections, but an early Softail had this type of primary case 84-88 and is very limited. I'm hoping those of you with experience in this repair will chime in.

I've been having an issue with what I thought was a sticky solenoid. I'd tap it when it clicked with a fiber mallet and the engine would crank. This issue started after I removed the primaries for seal and mainshaft race replacements. Upon pulling the outer primary tonight I noticed the solenoid starter drive lever not pulling with the top and bottom fingers. The bottom finger will move the drive gear, but the top finger is independent. It's loose on the shaft. I have two questions for ya'll. After removing the starter shaft, I can move the solenoid plunger manually and the bottom finger will move and the upper just free-floats on the shaft. First, should the starter drive lever allow the upper finger to move independently? Second, What's the best way to remove the drive lever? Do you remove the plug\screw or rod from the top and if so how did you get it out, or can the drive lever be removed from inside the inner primary?
Here's the pic of the Starter drive lever in question.
Clicky:
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/5100145

 

You have to remove the battery, battery carrier and oil tank mounting hardware to gain access to the shift lever screw. Your only other option is to rejove the inner primary and that entails a lot more parts coming off.

 

I don't believe they should move independently. Sounds like your on the right track...

 

The fork is intended to be a single part. If it's not damaged you could make a small tack weld to hold the loose fork tine solidly to the tube, but it would have to come out for that. Nice time for a new starter clutch since you are in there anyway. It's also a good time for fresh battery cables since they can corrode under the insulation and 1988 was a long time ago. I make mine from light gauge welding cable and lugs from my local welding supply because the fine strand welding cable is much better than stock for ampacity, flex and deterioration resistance. Battery lugs are 1/4" bolt hole diameter.

I had the same starter setup on my '88 FXR.

 

The drive lever is broken...the 2 arms should not move independently.

That primary was only used from 86-88...and while they look a lot like a 4 speed primary...they are completely different...and NOBODY makes a replacement. Pretty sure the shift lever pivot comes out from inside the primary...not out the top like the 4 speed...so you don't have to remove the oil tank.

 

Gotcha. The lil' screw holding the bottom of the pin in place on mine is f'n rounded off by the prior owner. How the hell do I get that sucker out?

 

You could try cutting a slot in it with a dremel...so you could use a BIG screwdriver.


Screw drivers with a square shaft work best...so you can put a big cresent wrench on it.

 

The bolt head is shallow but if you grind the end of a six point socket flat to remove the factory chamfer (which only exists to guide the broach that cuts the internal flats) you can get a better grip on what remains.

Seeing the pic it's slightly different than my FXR inner whose pivot withdraws from the top after removing a plug. The Softail design is better if you can pull the pivot without disturbing anything else.

You can also center punch the bolt head then drill it off. The remaining shank will still protrude from the casting to be grabbed by visegrips.

 

The bolt is pretty rounded off. The prior owner pulled the lock-tab over the rounded bolt head (pretty damn stupid 'cause it don't hold nothing). I'll have to remove the primary chain and clutch basket, kinda clear things away so I can get in there for surgery...*s. I appreciate the replies and I'll let you know how I eventually get it out.

 

Be careful of those very delicate clutch hub towers and ensure your puller is evenly seated.

Steel core aftermarket clutch hubs are available if needed. The center hub and towers are steel, the rest of the part is aluminum.