Getting ready to finish tearing down a recently purchased 72 FX. Last owned a shovel in 79, so it's been awhile.

The shop manual shows a compensator shaft nut torque of 170 for 70 and 71 and 400 for a 72 and newer. If true my 3/4 drive clicker torque wrench will get a workout! Hard to believe the 72's torque value is more than double the 70-71's.

I have a clutch hub puller and clutch basket locking tool. Will I need any other special tools to be able to remove the inner primary and remove the transmission from the frame?

Anything else I should do on reassembly?

Any other tips and tricks most highly appreciated.

 

They changed the compensator nut in those years. The early nut had 4 holes to use a special or home built spanner to tighten. The later was a conventional hex head.

As far as removing the inner primary. Once you remove the motor sprocket and clutch hub you have to remove the starter housing. The early models housing was held on by nuts on the backside of the inner primary. The later models had a bolt behind the clutch basket.

Follow the procedures in the manual and you should be all right.

 

Thank you, I did remember the clutch hub nut is left handed thread same as my twin cams. The Harley service manuals have sure evolved to what they were back in the earlier days. The old ones assumed you had some insight to what you were doing, the new ones lead you along step by step.

Very impressive list of your earlier iron bikes. I just want to build a fun kick around bike when I don't feel like riding the RK or softail.

Thanks again for your information.

 

The clutch hub nut is LEFTHANDED thread compensator nut is right handed

 

You can use the earlier torque values for the comp nut with a dab of red loctite. Won't move on you.

 

Thanks everyone for the tips. Inner primary is now off and will drop out engine, transmission and front end. Then everything goes for cleaning then frame, swing arm and tins go for painting.

I've got a very hard hitting 1/2" impact gun that walked the compensator nut right off and the puller for the clutch hub worked like a champ.

Might just make my July 4th weekend finish date and take the old beast to the Hollister Rally.

 

I would be cautious on using an impact gun on the compensator nut. The magnets in the alternator rotor can be knocked loose.

 

The constant hammering on the magnets with an impact can also decrease the amount of magnetism which will reduce the total output of the Alternator... It happened to me....

 

He's safe on that one the 72 still had the caged magnet rotor , later open glued ones I've seen do as you say.