Well awrigggghhht! Got the handlebar clamp issue all resolved. Much thanks to all who chimed in with their $.02. I appreciate it. Handlebars are rock solid. Now to mount the controls....

By the looks of these pics, I'm guessing those wires need to run inside the bars, especially since there is no recess on the clutch lever bar clamp to pass the wires through. Those wires are also a wee bit scrunched up inside that housing and passing them through the bar might alleviate that condition.

So....1/2" hole ok? That's about the smallest I can make work without really pinching the wires. My concern is will a 1/2 inch hole compromise the strength of the bar? Deburr a must...got it. Bars are smooth on inside and are two piece bars with oval cutout in handlebar clamp. Should work.

With six wire in the right and eight on the left, plus spot light wires and turn signal wires and 5 headlight wires,

I'm gonna have a fire-hose size bunch of wires running down my neck.


No way wires are going through here!

 

You probably don't want to drill a 1/2" hole. I would cut a slot 1/4" wide and 1/2" to 3/4" long. If you don't have access to a vertical mill, you can drill a few 1/4" holes and finish the slot with a Dremel. Also it will be easier if you don't run shrink tubing down through the bars, just the wires. Shrink from where the exit the bar to wherever your taking them.

 

Tat2d...interesting idea. I have a 1/4" end mill. I could go at it with that. I just don't want to take the bars off. Had to beat them on with a hammer. Opened the clamp with a chisel as a wedge. Tight as all hell. They feel solid.

 

the bars come dimpled in that area so it passes

 

Yes, it is going to want to be a slot due to the angle the wire bundle will be entering the bars. I have done a hole with a drill, then angled the drill to get as much of an oval as possible. Then on to dremels and other grinding tools. Very redneck but it gets the job done. I left the shrink tube on mine, felt it gave it more protection in case I missed a burr.

You can also grind the switch housing down on the inside to give the wires a little more room. Good luck

 

wow that sounds like another clamp failure waiting to happen. are they the right size bars?

 

Hmmmm....good question. Here's my take on it: FLH bars came in two sizes: 1" and 1-1/8". The bars I purchased are 1" bars. The risk would be undersize and not oversized. So I don't think it's a problem. I also believe all FLH bars were 1" where they fit into the clamp. The ends of the old style bars were 1-1/8" because a sleeve fit over the bars. The right side sleeve was the throttle which routed the throttle cable inside the bar. The left sid was the advance control which advanced and retarded the timing manually.

The knurling may have been the cause as knurling tends to expand metal. Legit concern, though. I appreciate it.

 

I was at work so I didn't see the one picture that shows the kind of clamp you used - I shouldn't have been alarmed - you're not using the same kind of clamp as before. Looks solid as a rock like you said. Carry on...

 

Yeah, works way-on better with the rubber mount bushings...almost like it was designed that way. LOL! To the Shitcan with that aftermarket riser. It's all good, bro! Thanks