This 78 in the shop has the "tall" 1st and 3rd setup in the tranny - it is horrible - its like starting in second - then second is right there - but - CLUNK - 3rd is too tall and it lugs - 3rd to 4th is smooth - 4th is right there at the top of 3 - but it is a long pull in 3rd to get top 4 and it just lugs - I have not checked the drive sprocket on the tranny but the final is a 51 - has the BDL clutch and closed 8mm belt primary - guy did low compression pistons with an Andrews #1 grind - what a POS setup - it hits a brick wall up around 3500 - you can just feel it run out of wind/air flow - I've never built a bike that would not run out - guess I found the formula - the low comp pistons and 1 grind plus tall gears - whole setup is fubar - all high quality S&S and Andrews stuff though - darn shame cause I'll have to pull it all apart

curious if anyone else runs the tall 1st and 3rd - and what sprocket setup up they use - I may tru a 22 - 51 - I'll lose topend cause that darn cam setup will fart at about 3500 but - maybe it would be ridable in town

 

On my 77 fxe I have an Andrew's gear set in my trans as well. Yes first gear is a tall gear but I don't have a tall third-year like you do. I can imagine that sucks but sometimes when I'm cruising around 40-45 I wish 3rd gear would go a little further but it doesn't. I'm running a 24-37 in the primary and a 23 - 51 on the secondary. My overall gear ratio is a 3.42 to 1 and it's screams around 65 miles an hour. I don't have a tach so I can't tell actually what RPM I'm spinning but it's doable just don't ever go over 65-70. I might go to a 49 or 50 on the rear to get a little more top-end but I'm a little worried about starting off in first gear because of how tall first really is. I'm pretty happy with it overall....

Just a note though I am running 9:1 Wiseco pistons and number 2 grind cam if you're running low compression on that number 1 cam yeah it's going to be a struggle for it...

I would think at this point the best thing to do would be to up the compression a little bit and let that Cam and gears work where they're supposed to it's probably the best way out...

 

my guess the combo is the reason the guy sold the bike, lots of shops that the work but have no idea what does and what does not work in a shovel

Andrews made drag race gear sets for big stroke engines but that motor would not pull those ratios

 

yeah - I agree - the guy had this bike built at a shop called American Thunder - they are out of business - they cut corners on the motor build too - looks like they used stuff they had in the shop - they charged the guy 4K for the motor and trans build - the guy put another 4K in the bike with a billet front end, pipes, paint and all new wheels with the twisted spokes - this one is a challenge

 

on the cheap we get Korean shovel gear sets for the guys who just cant afford Andrews as a complete - have maybe 25 sets in and out 3 maybe 4 years with no come backs and the young guys are riding them

every gear in the trans 6 pieces FL 1970 to 1977 loose roller style with the 290 first and close ratio 3rd OR FX ratio 244 first and close ratio 3rd, both shift forks and the 70 up main shaft and countershaft, with both shift dogs 1/2 and 3/4 PM me if you are looking for something like that

 

I don't know what is best for you but I can tell you what I have run on my 76 FLH for years now.

When I broke a chain and it slapped the shift drum silly I pulled the tranny out and had the only guy around here (Southern VA) that knew anything about Shovelheads rebuild it (mainshaft seal was leaking so much I had to part it over a cake pan). I liked the stock FLH gear ratios (1st gear in the basement) because I run a 24 tooth front sprocket and a 43 tooth rear. I can cruise at 65 mph all day long with that setup.

When he opened it up he found a couple of gears with chipped teeth so I told him to go ahead and go all the way through it. When he replaced the gears he just ordered an Andrews close ratio gear set which as far as I'm concerned just replaced the FLH first gear with a SuperGlide one. I have to feather the clutch now to get it going but I must say I don't miss that huge gap between 1st and 2nd gears.

I guess what I have always known about Shovels is you have to decide where you enjoy running them the most. Either stoplight to stoplight or on the highway. The only way I know of to set it up for both is to get a Baker six into four which costs about as much as the bike. I live in the country so for me I raised the overall gearing for highway comfort and just deal with the slow takeoff. I gotta say though with that tall gearing I get to hear a lot of the sound I love.

I know this may not answer your question I just thought I'd throw my experiences over the decades I've had with my Shovel in case it gives you any ideas.

 

my bike has a 2.44 1st and the 1.35 3rd - I also have a 77 FXE with the stock 2.6 1st for FXE and it is tall but very rideable - I also have a very old 48 pan-shovel top with a ridiculous tractor like 1st gear and an 81 FLH that has a very nice 1st gear ratio that I very much like - I can feather the clutch to get the 1st gear off the line with eh 2.44 - but the drop from second to 3rd is ridiculous - its just too far of a drop - the Andrews kit is like 600 bucks - I may pull it out and just sell the kit - I have another 4 speed gear set in another tranny sittion on a shelf

 

What sprocket is on the engine, trans, rear wheel?
Could be the culprit, as that 2.44 shouldn't be an issue, unless of course the engine is way down on power?
Scott

 

51 rear - I looked at that 1st when it seemed awfully tall in 1st - I will bet it has like a 25 front - going to pull the primary apart in the next few weeks - I can ride it this way by feathering the clutch - but it does have an Andrews #1 cam - and low compression pistons - not done by me - by a shop in Owattana MN - dealing with left side leaks too cause the bike sat for several years - and replacing the cam and plastic breather - plus replacing the low comp pistons soon