Thanks Panz for your link. I'll order the tool. I found a front fork oil seal kit 352-088 from J& P. Hope that's all I'll need. Thanks again.

 

As an aside of this thread, I thought I'd include a photo of an easy way to fill fork tubes. A buddy of mine made it. Hang a container above with correct amount of oil and let it fill. No spillage.

 

Looks like that will work. Big thing is to make sure the top is sealed so that it doesn't back up and spill over the sides.


Only other toool you might think aboout is a seal puller. I have had mine like since forever because I do my own work and own several old bikes, as well as do work on friends bikes. You could probably make your own. Seen someone use a claw hammer once as well

https://www.googleadservices.com/pag...9aACCEM&adurl=

 

As always Panz, thanks for your help. Retrocycle is currently out of stock on the plug socket. Trying to locate one now.

 

I learned long ago putting fresh oil on top of a fork that is munged up inside is a disaster

how do I know its munged - same reason your not taking it apart

 

Still trying to squeeze in a few rides here and there before the cold weather really sets in. Typically, would you just have to replace seals and washers or do you have to tear into it to see what is fuquad? Thanks John.

 

Removed and disassembled front forks today and made several discoveries. Red Loctite was applied generously to fork cap bolt, slider tube plug and damper valve nut. Hard to get off. Upon disassembling fork slider tube, I find a length of pvc in each tube on top of spring (see photo). Is that right?
My 59-69 service manual doesn't show that and the correct manual hasn't arrived yet ( buddy spaced out and forgot to order.)
The other area of concern is the damper tube valves. Both are scored one worse than the other. Can these be smoothed out or should new ones be ordered (about $93 from J & P. As the risk of being a pita, what seal kit is recommended?
Thanks in advance.

 

Maybe those are Progressive springs. I put a set in my 73 FLH. They came with the PVC that you could cut to whatever length for the preload on the springs.

 

Thanks for reply TPB. That's probably the explanation. I watched a video on rebuilding the forks and it said that if you had progressive springs,the tighter wound section should go towards the cap. If so, the PO had the springs in upside down. Would that make a difference? Also, he used a red, caulk like substance to seal cap. The hole in the cap was plugged and was why I couldn't fill from the top. I'm guessing the seals leaked and that was his lazy method of fixing the problem.