The chrome on the lower portion of the rear shock on my '75 FXE is a bit off the mark, so I'm considering a new set just for appearance.
Can't say I've had any issue with ride quality, but then I've never ridden anything with newer technology.
Is there anything magic about some of the pricier shock options from Progressive and others? If the ride improves, or quality in some manner justifies the additional cost, I'm fine with that.
Progressive ride like a hardtail on shovels everyone I know who bought them either replaced them or spent more money changing out the springs trying to soften the ride. The $200 & under shocks you see everywhere are import junk. Had some Koni's I really liked but haven't seen or heard of them for a while.
These shocks appear to be well-designed, and the review content looks genuine vs. authored.
Initially thought only black were available, however got an email response that there is a Nickel Body / Chrome Spring Option as pictured, although $790 a pair may be overkill given the level of sophistication of the '75 FXE suspension.
I've tried Progressive on my Evo and yes they are a stiff even on the softest setting....
I also have a 77 FXE.
Any ways I purchased a set of take offs from a 2013 Dyna 12 1/2" center to center, on eBay for $113. Like new. I was told that they didn't have enough travel for my 77 FXE but I tried them anyways. They bolted up no problem and the ride height is perfect.. as soon as the weather breaks on Long island I will be able to test the ride. If you have time to wait for my outcome it'll probably be another month yet... Hope this helps..
Those are going to bottom out and possibly allow the tire to rub so check the seat bolt length so you don't make a new rain groove in the tire. Later models shocks have a much lighter spring rate than the shovels require. Where the shock mounts and the geometry is very different between the two frame styles. Been there, tried that...
Those are going to bottom out and possibly allow the tire to rub so check the seat bolt length so you don't make a new rain groove in the tire. Later models shocks have a much lighter spring rate than the shovels require. Where the shock mounts and the geometry is very different between the two frame styles. Been there, tried that...
Not sure if it matters much but the swing arm has different areas where you can attach the lower Mount to to change the ride height. I don't know if that's standard stock or if it's an aftermarket swingarm but I'm kind of hoping that that'll make the difference. One thing I can do is take my tie downs and strap down the rear to see how much travel I got to see if there will ever be any rub you know completely compress the spring. I can give that a shot and then go from there and actually see how much travel I really do have. like I said in a month or so once the roads clear up a little but I will check that bolt thank you....
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; 02-18-2018 at 01:50 PM.
Not sure if it matters much but the swing arm has different areas where you can attach the lower Mount to to change the ride height. I don't know if that's standard stock or if it's an aftermarket swingarm but I'm kind of hoping that that'll make the difference I'll find out like I said in a month or so once the roads clear up a little but I will check that bolt thank you....
What the issue is the pivot force ratio. Look at how & where the shocks sit on the newer bikes , they are farther back on the frame and almost straight up over the lower mount. Shovel the upper is in over the actual swingarm pivot point and on the lower out on the swingarm about halfway, big angle higher torque load. Means the shovel has a much higher torque ratio the shock has to overcome, why they are so heavy with big spring 300# rate springs. Later model stuff run around 180# rated springs. Travel will be another issue, shovel is about 2-3/4" give or take the newer shocks are all 3 or 3-1/4" travel.
Fought this same battle trying to find a solution I even dropped the $$$ and got a set of Arnott air shocks after a conversation with them saying they should work but no guarantees. Even at max pressure ( 120psi ) the shovel would still bottom and overpressure the shocks something fierce, pegged the 200lbs gauge and the tire rubbed. I had the remote gauge and a on the fly air pump on her. Waste of $700..... gave them to a dyna buddy.
Let me know if they work for you and then post up what year & model you got so I can look into them myself if they play out well.
Will do Twisted.... I probably should have check travel on the old set of shocks first to have a base line..
I figured with the weight of the 2 bikes that the shocks would be comparable. I also understand your description as to the angle of the shock and how it can change the action of the shock... If anything it thought the 2013 Dyna shocks would not be an issue because they are less upright on the shovel which in terms of leverage from the swing arm would be less because they are further from the pivot... I guess time will tell.... I definitely will update... Might be a while though... Thank you for your knowledge...
Well 41* this morning but I was really itching to get out... I hit a road that I know the bike was jumpy and klunky over and I must say riding solo the back end really felt smooth and trailed perfectly. Sort of felt like my 98 Softail... I was very amazed... Didn't hit any huge bumps to attempt a bottoming but will see how it handles the same road two up with the ol lady.... I also tightened the steering damper all the way and no klunks there either... Bike felt real good.... Real good......... I made sure all the bolts were cleared out of fender just in case...
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; 02-28-2018 at 07:10 AM.
02-16-2018, 05:41 PM
Shocks - Any Magic?
