Maybe... or my feets are too big?? Head too ... if ya ask some peoples!!! I simply have it ingrained in my Feeble mind How it works..I "load" the shifter long before I shift... Not the Best Habit... but... I'm working on it...
I will still admonish you to resist the tendency to become more aggressive with the "stomping" on the Shifter..

 

I am just a old crusier....already had a Sporty to do the more aggressive stuff. Easier to push down than to lift up. in fact I still hang around the sportster forum to help those members with mods since I am clueless when it comes to helping members with original shovels lol

I do have a question....in my quest for correctness and knowledge....may be a more appropriate question for John

I have seen a few threads about the OEM timing cover "1" from 77-78 which made me think my timing cover was not correct with a raised "1". I am thinking it is OEM 32513-77

Earlier in this thread John and not_so-newb posted pics of their bike with "FLH" 32584-70 on the timing cover which I assume is correct for my year.This is a NOS OEM 32584-70 off ebay.

It does not look like either of their "FLH" decals...is the above decal correct? Not sure if I want to go with decal vs a raised "1" but wanted to know what is correct and if the above decal is the correct one.

Thanks

 

While the #1 that you have is Not right... in fact, I never seen one before... IDK what is correct for 1971... I would have thought "plain"
But... Don't get me started... I could get real fussy about what is Correct ie Factory as delivered about that bike!!! LOL
Seems you are registered at a site that can be Brutally honest about such things... and be able to back the facts as well... If you are simply looking to be Period correct... you'll be Fine...
Mostly..

 

I run this on my 76 FLH.

 

Thanks...that looks like OEM 32511-78 or 32503-77 whereas mine looks like 32513-77

 

The "FLH" sticker is correct for 1970, I do not know for '71. When I got the bike, the existing sticker was shot, I bought the repo one from the Bay. Perfect match.

 

BEFORE - pehaps a modified OEM toe shifter 71-74 Sportster as John mentioned


AFTER - OEM Heel-Toe Shifter 34690-65 and Chrome Repop Inner Shift Lever in my quest for correctness. Hopefully it's comfortable and easier to shift.


My modified toe shifter, roll pin, and inner shift lever all packed and ready to mail to Racepres.....it's called postive thinking. LOL

 

Now I am having second thoughts about drilling out the center of the reproduction mufflers OEM 65242-70B AND drilling holes around the end cap to provide more air flow....perhaps I need to do one or the other I don't know...any thoughts?
I am currently running Paughco 2-2 exhaust system 735TM which runs pretty well with my current jetting .076/.031. I looked at the inside of my muffs more closely and was surprised that it was not open baffles.

What is the theory behind this set-up?...don't think I ever saw internals like this i.e. angled baffle and 3 holes in end cap. I am assuming it is mainly to eliminate reversion but only guessing. Any technical opinions?

 

the that muffler type has been around as long as I have been doing this - it allows the intake track tuning to be correct with the exhaust - the idea is to trap the negative wave from the exhaust valve closing sound that happens - and at the speed of sound to be trapped buy the cone U see(ultimate VE ) - this is the way the wave that stops and returns to the valve and seat instead of a flat cut pipe end - causing the suction as that is the best way I can explain it on the intake valve at over lap

 

Thanks John....makes sense. I think that would be the same as reducing or eliminating reversion similar to placing torque inserts (i.e. lollipops) at the end of the muffs to trap the exhaust wave and send it back.

In your opinion, which would you do to the reproduction muffs to replicate the trapping of the wave and return to the valve and seat while providing better air flow (and of course sound)....
1) Drill holes in the end cap and leave the center of the baffles
2) Drill out the center of the baffles and leave the end cap alone
3) Drill holes in both the end cap and the center of the baffles.

I think what I was planning to do i.e.drill out center of baffles and drill holes in the end cap may not sufficiently trap the negative wave and return it to the valve unless I install torque inserts.