starter housing
#11
03-18-2019, 05:11 PM
You said you have a $350 premo primary...I guessing you have the cal-products primary that Rivera -Primo bought out...
If so the primary is threaded AND the starter housing is threaded...that wont work...gonna have to drill out one of them...I would drill out the starter housing so you can replace the starter without taking the primary apart...
From the Rivera -Primo instructions
If so the primary is threaded AND the starter housing is threaded...that wont work...gonna have to drill out one of them...I would drill out the starter housing so you can replace the starter without taking the primary apart...
From the Rivera -Primo instructions
drill them in the starter housing wow you mean to tell me
I'm gonna have to take the inner off rethread and drill the
starter housing wow gonna be sick let me think about this
but you right this is a cal product that primo bought out it's
heavy duty because I used the m6 chain tensioner and the original
one cracked like an egg this is a thicker and durable one think it's 3 pounds heavier
Last edited by 1981 suprglide; 03-18-2019 at 06:21 PM.
#12
03-19-2019, 06:46 AM
Seasoned HDF Member
#13
03-20-2019, 10:14 AM
Good thread. I avoid nylock nuts on engine and drivetrain parts. Dry threads are evil so I use Loctite to exclude moisture. Loctite doesn't seize fasteners, corrosion does. Split lock washers are trash which is why they aren't used in aviation. All-steel lock nuts are preferred for aircraft use too.
Of course nuts are stronger than threads in aluminum castings so it's an upgrade.
Of course nuts are stronger than threads in aluminum castings so it's an upgrade.
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