Do I need a new clutch?
#1
Do I need a new clutch?
Possibly. But i figured I'd ask.
74 flh. Sat in a barn for the past 16 or so years.
Primary was isolated who know how long ago. Currently have 60wt oil in there, about 8oz. Whatever it took to get oil to the bottom of the clutch basket.
Anywho...got the bike running. Rode it all day yesterday. Got on interstate...a long, uphill on-ramp. Got in to 4th towards the end of the ramp, and the clutch would slip. Roll off the throttle, and it would grab again. Harder on the throttle and it would slip. Adjusted clutch screw and cable today. Didnt get it to slip, but to me, something feels weird. The shifts are...soft...or something. Especially in to 4th. Doesnt feel as notchy or clunky as I'm used to, especially for an older ratchet top. Should I mess with the spring adjustment? Or, since i don't know much history on the bike, spend the money and get new steels and discs, and do it all at once? Clutch kits dont seem too expensive, especially off ebay, even for stuff other than vtwin or drag. Or am i going in the wrong direction? It's been a few years since I shifted a ratchet top, so maybe it's all normal, other than the slipping. Oh. It doesn't pop out of gear. Just slipped under load. And it goes in to neutral with surprising ease
74 flh. Sat in a barn for the past 16 or so years.
Primary was isolated who know how long ago. Currently have 60wt oil in there, about 8oz. Whatever it took to get oil to the bottom of the clutch basket.
Anywho...got the bike running. Rode it all day yesterday. Got on interstate...a long, uphill on-ramp. Got in to 4th towards the end of the ramp, and the clutch would slip. Roll off the throttle, and it would grab again. Harder on the throttle and it would slip. Adjusted clutch screw and cable today. Didnt get it to slip, but to me, something feels weird. The shifts are...soft...or something. Especially in to 4th. Doesnt feel as notchy or clunky as I'm used to, especially for an older ratchet top. Should I mess with the spring adjustment? Or, since i don't know much history on the bike, spend the money and get new steels and discs, and do it all at once? Clutch kits dont seem too expensive, especially off ebay, even for stuff other than vtwin or drag. Or am i going in the wrong direction? It's been a few years since I shifted a ratchet top, so maybe it's all normal, other than the slipping. Oh. It doesn't pop out of gear. Just slipped under load. And it goes in to neutral with surprising ease
#2
Pull it apart... Ensure the steels are Flat, and not Burned...
Clean or maybe replace the frictions... I clean them, but, they are Not that expensive... set the spring plate By The Book... same with the clutch ...paying particular attention to the orientation of the Clutch arm on the tranny case..
Good as yer gonna get with O.E. Type Shovel Clutch...
Clean or maybe replace the frictions... I clean them, but, they are Not that expensive... set the spring plate By The Book... same with the clutch ...paying particular attention to the orientation of the Clutch arm on the tranny case..
Good as yer gonna get with O.E. Type Shovel Clutch...
#4
O.E. and Energy one clean up best... with Alto reds a close third...
If I bought new whenever I had a Clutch problem [most of 'em my fault] I wouldn't be able to afford to Drink!!!!!!!
Last edited by Racepres; 06-24-2019 at 11:56 PM.
#5
for me this is how I see it
alto was a jersey company making automatic trans clutches, and the red alto is the same material they use in power glides that have been used drag racing since the 60s
they come in the red - kevlor and carbon all made in the USA and pricing is very reasonable - today we only use the red and kevlor with the USA steels they sell with out the ball and spring steels
have used the carbon in race bikes only for street they do not have the manners you need at stop lights - the old OEM discs absorb oil of today - back in the day oil was not what it is today reason it slipped and that will come back BTW
the light shifting might be the ratchet tops springs are bent and now weak - also could be the hi gear bushing is worn - drive it a few weeks and see if it starts to leak trans oil around the chain
alto was a jersey company making automatic trans clutches, and the red alto is the same material they use in power glides that have been used drag racing since the 60s
they come in the red - kevlor and carbon all made in the USA and pricing is very reasonable - today we only use the red and kevlor with the USA steels they sell with out the ball and spring steels
have used the carbon in race bikes only for street they do not have the manners you need at stop lights - the old OEM discs absorb oil of today - back in the day oil was not what it is today reason it slipped and that will come back BTW
the light shifting might be the ratchet tops springs are bent and now weak - also could be the hi gear bushing is worn - drive it a few weeks and see if it starts to leak trans oil around the chain
#6
for me this is how I see it
alto was a jersey company making automatic trans clutches, and the red alto is the same material they use in power glides that have been used drag racing since the 60s
they come in the red - kevlor and carbon all made in the USA and pricing is very reasonable - today we only use the red and kevlor with the USA steels they sell with out the ball and spring steels
have used the carbon in race bikes only for street they do not have the manners you need at stop lights - the old OEM discs absorb oil of today - back in the day oil was not what it is today reason it slipped and that will come back BTW
the light shifting might be the ratchet tops springs are bent and now weak - also could be the hi gear bushing is worn - drive it a few weeks and see if it starts to leak trans oil around the chain
alto was a jersey company making automatic trans clutches, and the red alto is the same material they use in power glides that have been used drag racing since the 60s
they come in the red - kevlor and carbon all made in the USA and pricing is very reasonable - today we only use the red and kevlor with the USA steels they sell with out the ball and spring steels
have used the carbon in race bikes only for street they do not have the manners you need at stop lights - the old OEM discs absorb oil of today - back in the day oil was not what it is today reason it slipped and that will come back BTW
the light shifting might be the ratchet tops springs are bent and now weak - also could be the hi gear bushing is worn - drive it a few weeks and see if it starts to leak trans oil around the chain
#7
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