There is a website called "Harley Help." Just type harley help into your browser. It is run by a guy named "Spider." Good, straight info. I caution you, he is highly opinionated, but there is good info there.
It's been quite a while now, but I think the Harley website has a place on it that you can ask about the VIN as well.
Whatever ya do, I hope it works out okay for ya.
If you are thinking the bike you are looking at is some sort of gold mine, be careful. It's only worth what a buyer is willing to pay if you are gonna "flip" it. I think the bike is cool because it is a distigushable piece of Harley history.

 

correct it is an fx not fxe.

but.......about the reverse shifting. my '74-74" had it stock from the factory and i was under the impression this was the only year it was done.

 

Roach, starting in 1970, HD changed their identification system in an effort to reach uniformity w/ the majority of the m/c industry. The frame and engine numbers are the same and in most states a stock bike will be registered by the engine number.

VIN (frame) and engine number consist of:
the first two digits will indicate the model, the next five comprise the sequential production number, the second to last indicates manufacturer (HD), and the last indicates the year.

That being said... yours should look something like 2C 12345 H1 where 2C = FX-1200 (Super Glide); 12345= the sequential production number (yours will be different but should have five numbers; H = Harley Davidson; 1= 1971.

The location for the frame is on the right hand side of the frame head; the engine id is located on the right side above the brake pedal between the protectgive stars.

The F came from the FLH whose motor and frame were used; the X from the XL Sporty that contributed to the front end. Foot boards were replaced by conventional pegs. Instead of designing new linkage, HD merely reversed the shift lever so that it was reachable by the toes of the left foot on the new peg...and reversing the lever meant reverse shift pattern as well.

No electric start meant the factory could use a smaller Sporty battery installed on the right side, up high, almost under the seat.

The optional 3.5 gal tanks were used and speedo, warning lights, and ignition were located in the same chrome center console used on FLH.

The exhaust set up was all new and consisted of 2 individual pipes sweeping back from the cyclinders welded together in a Y just before the single muffler.

Fenders and tanks got the white paint w/ blue and red trim.

Stopping power consisted of a full width drum brake up front and a cast iron rear.

Man, I gotta say, if it is any where close to stock you should buy it, the rear fender alone could save Bear Stearns from financial collapse.

 

Thanks "panz" that is great information.
With the information provided by panz4ever it appears that this bike is 1971 Harley FXwith a"sequential production number" is in the low 13000 range as in 2C13***H1.

There are lots of spare parts included with this bike such as different rear finder, bars, wheels, tank, parts for disk brakes,corbin solo seat, exhust, crash bars, sissy bar,etc... Lots of receits for work done and parts bought. The current pain is pearl white with ghost flames.

Any more help or ideas???

Thanks,
Roach

 

I have the next year. An FX 1200. The Harley dealer in Bloomington, Indiana has a restored one like yours on the showroom floor. It is as fine an example as you see anywhere. There is another one that is in unrestored pristeen condition up in northern Indiana at Kersting's in North Judson, In. I am sure there are lots of them around, but a good clean one is hard to find. If you purchase it, it will be fun. I have two old shovelheads. One is an electric start and the other, the 72 is a kicker. The electric one is in its' fourth year since restoring and has already started and made a couple of runs. They are great bikes.The drum brakes on the early ones leave a little to be desired. Ken

 

Hey guys I need a little help. I have a 1971 FX1200 super glide. It was my brothers bike and he passed a couple of weeks ago. I got the bike and he has done some custom work to it. I have most of the original parts. The speedometer and the cable are broke. I have the replacement parts but i can not get the cable off the gear box. Does anyone have any suggestions.

Thanks
Bob

 

Is the tranny still in the frame and you just can't get a good hold on it to unscrew the cable? If that's the case, you might be able to give it a glancing blow with a screwdriver and hammer or a long chisel/hammer to get it to unscrew. Soak it with some WD-40, Knockerloose, Aerokroil, Tasgon (be careful with Tasgon, immediate, irreparable eye damage is possible unless they changed their formula) or any number of other penetrants and let it sit overnight.

 

You do know the cable is screwed on to a drive unit that is then held on the tranny with a 1/4" screw/bolt, right? I'm thinking you are just trying to remove the cable from the drive unit and not remove the drive unit from the tranny.

 

Easiest way to do it if it is frozen. Clean the area around the speedo drive with brake cleaner to get all the dirt and crude away from the area. Take a long screw driver and unscrew the single small sloted screw that holds the drive to the tranny. Pull the hole drive unit and cable out as a unit. Take it to your bench, use your penetrating oil. Pad your vice and clamp the unit in it. Take a wrench and you should be able to remove the cable. Carefull replacing the new cable the threads are very easy to cross thread. Use a new gasket when you replace it, You may have to spin the drive slightly to get it to mate with the internal gear. You will probably need a magnetic screwdriver or one with a clamp to hold the screw to replace it. That will be the hardest part.

 

Thanks for the help i will try your suggestions.