Depending on how big the rust chunks are and how much this could be an issue . Tanks are THIN stamped sheet metal I repair or replace 6-8 sets a yr on old shovels . If you have the means do a low pressure check ( 10-15 PSI ) with some soapy water in them or like the above post stated a radiator shop can do this . Getting lap full of gas at 70 makes for a road side show that can get you arrested for public exposure ........

 

/\ +1 what panz said. The rad shop will rinse them with water; I spray them inside and out with WD40 to keep the surface rust off. The painter will clean the outside with solvent before priming, and I leave the inside bare metal. Inspect the tabs for cracking. The tank boltholes at the backbone are common leak spots, not typically discovered until the freshly painted tanks are first filled with fuel, thus the need to pressure test.

If you haven't done so yet, look for both the parts and service manuals online. You can find .pdf versions at shovelhead dot us.

 

Ok, I just looked and guess what? The primary is not separate, it is still connected to the engine oiling system. I found a great "how to" on the shovelhead.us site so I can take care of this eventually. However, what are the problems associated with just leaving it "as is" for the time being. Where does the oil go? The ground? Is primary chain life siginificantly shortened? What exactly are the cons compared to the pros (we know the pros). Thanks again.

 

Too many cons to start to list , separate the systems your motor will love you much longer . Biggest issue with stock oiling is all the crap flying around inside that dirty *** primary gets sucked into your engine through the oil pump then back to the oil filter & tank , does that even sound right to you ?

 

Nope, doesn't sound right at all. Actually, this bike appears to have been really well maintained so I'm surprised this wasn't done already. Guess I'll add it to my list of $hit to do. When did H-D begin separating the primary from the engine oil?

 

Oil return sump system to primary started in 1965 with the last of the pans. Prior to that it was a constant loss system (oil was drawn from the pump through a tube and lubricated the chain. That oil in turn dripped to the ground. You knew if your primary chain was oiled properly by the oil on the ground...hence the terminology that Harleys mark their spot. No oil means your chain was not getting oil. No oil means a strecthed chain, shorter life and more money.) Sealed primary started with evo motors I believe.

"bike has been well maintained'...your words. That is the key to longevity for older iron. STILL running that set up on my 65 pan. Bike is still on the road and still going strong (owned since October '70).

"Maintained" means oil change every 2500 miles (60 wt only unless you are running around in the dead of winter in Michigan then use 50 wt), making sure tappet screen is clean, making sure you change oil filter with oil change, occasionally pulling primary and cleaning the **** that accumulates on the bottom of the primary cuz it is too heavy to get sucked back to the tank.

Guess I do not see the horror that others might imply by running a 'stock' system.

 

Panz4ever,

I have to see that I'm leaning toward your way of thinking with this primary thing. Well maintained, regular maintenance intervals should allow this setup to be just fine. However, at the same time, H-D didn't go to a sealed system for nothing. I'm sure the sealed primary is an improvement over the older design. I'm still waiting for the primary gasket before pulling the primary cover. Can't wait to see what the chain looks like in there. Hopefully it's in good condition.

 

I was checking out the rear most part of the frame and noticed that there are 2 holes, about 2 inches apart. The shocks are mounted on the forward ones and the rear ones are empty. The chrome fender struts extend past them all the way to the end. Can the shocks be mounted in either of these holes? It appears to me that if you did this the bike would sit a little higher. Or is this rearward most hole a leftover from the '69 FLH frame and isn't used with the FXE package...

 

You got a good buy for the time. I have been trying to sell my 1980 FXE because of back and neck problems and have been having a heck of a time trying to get $3000.00 for it. I'm down here in Florida and I guess nobody has any cash. I hate to let it go for less than 3 grand. I have attached some photos. It only has 38,500 miles on it and I had 10-1 pistons and a BH cam put in plus a S&S Super E carb with some nice crome the pistons were standard bore. I guess it is just a sign of the times.

 

Sweet bike man. By the way, that's a FXD (Low Rider) dash on there. Only the LR came with a tach back then.