it doesn't have the setup from the tranny anymore, so I put fluid in up to the teeth on the clutch basket, fired her up and away she goes.....it started pouring outside so I only got to ride it up and down the block, but i am going back another day.

I left 2 very happy men and one not so happy mom :)

thanks for all your help

Your right if it's still stock which most aren't anymore , the conversion to a sealed primary has been going on since the 70's .

'76 flh Shovel primary lubrication
 

Hi, I could use some help from "twiZted Biker" I'm trying to eliminate the oily mess I always end up with inside my primary. Yes, it does negatively impact my clutch! So with everything else stock, can I disconnect and plug the oil drip line, disconnect and plug the primary case oil discharge line and, instead just use ATF of H-D primary oil, fill to bottom of clutch basket (while bike is upright) and that should be better? I guess I should plug the oil lines, and the pick up and discharge nipples to which they're attached? Thanks

Roughly yes . Your best bet is to drain the oil bag and the open the primary then yank all the lines off everything , clean house . Also at this point it would be a good idea to thoroughly clean your oil tank out there's going to be some heavy hard sludge caked on the inside bottom of it and the inside of your primary . A pain I know but you'll much happier believe me .

Now the fun part , turn off the the metering screws on the oil pump that went to the rear chain & the primary and block off off both those 1/8" barbs . Next the big long fitting with the 2 ports that fits into the crankcase behind the oil pump itself , either cap both those ports or remove it and use an 1/8" pipe plug . ( bit tough if still in the frame you can't see in there but can be done) . Plug the bottom return port and the center feed from the inside of the case , you can leave this one open but if you ride in rain much or keep a clean scoot water can get in as well oil mist out so heads up . The small 1/8" feed line I leave on and just make a U in it to act as a trap and you have a breather tube this way . When done seal it all up and use HD primary oil or ATF up the bottom of the clutch basket with the bike standing upright and your go to go . Check the chain regular and change it every 3 to 5 k your choice .

The inside top fitting on the oil pump is the feed from the bottom of the oil tank , the outside is the return to top of the tank into the filter ,The barb on the case just above the oil pump is the breather return to top of the tank to that 3/4" turret fitting there .

On the back of the crankcase just under the motor mount is the crankcase breather port , you can run a line back and put a filter on it or route it over onto your chain for a little lube . Messy but works well .

Thats the proper way to do the conversion , just watch the lines on the pump and don't get them crossed your good to go . :icon_mrgreen:

TwiZted Biker, Thanks for the thorough reply to my inquiry. I pretty much understand what you said just from reading it and my familiarity with the systems. I won't get to it for a while, but I will let you know how it all works out. Thanks again!

Been meaning to type that one up for a while anyway , comes up regular someone needing to know . Planing on doing a picture thing next bike I get in with it done or in need of being done . Good luck and safe riding .

Oil Lines
 

Here is a good visual of the oil line route.

Twisted, here's a link for you instead of typing everything up.

http://www.shovelhead.us/specs/oil/oil.htm

I belong to that forum also I need to spend more time over there . Tons of talent and good people . thanks

I've done everything as described including remove the "tee" on the vent that used to tie the primary and oil tank vents to the engine case/oil pump. Now I'm building up pressure in my oil tank, and consequently blowing the oil plug/dipstick. Lost one the other day riding down the road.

What am I doing wrong?