I am picking up a used CV Carb off a 2001 FXDXT with a Screaming Eagle Dyno-kit already installed. Wondering what everyones experience is in setting these carbs up to work on a Shovelhead. Jet size recommendations? Should I remove the kit? and if so, what is involved in returning it to stock?

 

I run a CV on every Pan and Shovel I build these days. For what it's worth, I've never found a benefit for any of the Dynajet, Thunderslide, or other kits and usually remove them entirely. Depending on the pipes and engine size, a 190/48 jet combination usually dials things right in along with about 2.5 turns out on the idle adjustment screw. Spacing the needle with a shim, or even using a Sporty needle in some cases, can help fine-tune the unit.

As an aside, check for intake leaks or you'll chase your tail forever! I don't even use the Wd-40 or other "spray while it's running" anymore. Have a little thing that bolts up to the outside of my carb with an airhose inlet. I push about 5-8 lbs of air into the carb with the intake valves closed. Spray soapy water everwhere around the intake and ANY leaks immediatly start bubbling. This has even helped me find areas in the casting of the intake/heads where air could get through. Super easy to make and well worth the effort.

My .02

Hobo

 

Probably know this stuff, but you will need the flange for mounting the CV and the two throttle cables. There are many air cleaner/breather mounts available (I am thinking about a kit to put a S&S tear drop on mine).
You will likely need a set up for mounting your choke/enrichener cable. I use one that puts the pull on the bottom of the carb. Nice and tight.
Hobo's jets recommendations are pretty much bullet proof, I hear and read. For grins I dropped down to a 180 yesterday and it worked very well. Will see how fuel economy is with it.
Get the carb as close to stock as you can and dump the dyno kit. I don't have a thunderslide in my shovel, but I do in my evo and it made a difference in response (not MPG), so I will try it someday on my shovel.
Will you be using bands or rings for intake to engine connection. I use a two-piece clamp for my bands, but common wisdom is to use the aircraft style clamps.
Another way for testing for leaks is to use a propane torch (not lit) and flow it around from the back side of the engine to the intake manifold connections and listen for changes in idle. If you have leaks, they will most likely be there. I did find one yesterday on a half-inch spacers I had between carb and intake. Dumped the spacer and all is good.
I write too much.

 

I run a CV on my 80 FLH, best thing I ever did. I made my own support brackets but I believe you can buy them. Once you get it mounted and secure, check the mani gaskets often until your sure it isn't leak'n. I put almost 300 mile on yesterday in the heat of the day (80+). Only had one little hickup, after stopping for a little.

 

I am just putting finishing touches and some mechanical repairs to my 75 fxe, I bought a H-D CV Killer carb ( referred from killer carbs California) which was tuned for my motor, this will be new for me. I have not beenn out on road yet as it is little chilly yet here in Canada. I have read only good things about this conversion so I hope to see some new differences. It has an enricher not a choke so your warm ups should not involve long idling...hopefully i can update this thread once I have had a chance to put a 100 Kilometres on.

 

Nothing like rebirthing an old thread! But very relevant for me... I'm thinking of ditching the Super E on my 1980 FXS, so I definitely want to hear how this works out for you. The idea of an enrichener is the same idea that the Super E uses, but I'm thinking about a CV carb, so yeah... definitely interested in your findings!

 

yes will report back, I also installed new cam and tappets so I have a few things to test out....

 

Can't see this as possible... But... never know I guess....
The FXS is a fairly light bike...so IMO a properly Tuned "E" is gonna respond better than a CV... of course depending how you ride..
Best use of a CV for me was on an '83 FLHT really sweet that one...After Tuning... One important Note...on a RubberGlide, the CV conversion Must be Solidly supported ...ie Hanging from the Rocker, as in OE... the S&S support [underneath and at the Flange] is less than useless in this Application...you've been warned...

BTW Reviving an Old Thread... simply means someone knows enough to use Search!!!!

 

I definitely did this, you need the support bracket!!!, , solidly connected for that required support.

 

Look at nightrider.com and cv-performance.com