I took your advice - now Z Pads are squealing!
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Cruiser
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver BC
I took your advice - now Z Pads are squealing!
I like the extra stopping power I got from the Steel Braided line and new Brake Fluid and the Z Pads but ... They are squealing a little and now more (200 miles on them). Still not every time I hit the brakes but often on slow braking to a stop at lights and stop signs etc.
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Is there anything to do to eliminate this?
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Will it get worse or go away?
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BTW My mechanic tells me he seated the brakes properly.
 \\;
Any ideas?
 \\;
Is there anything to do to eliminate this?
 \\;
Will it get worse or go away?
 \\;
BTW My mechanic tells me he seated the brakes properly.
 \\;
Any ideas?
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,615
Likes: 9
From: Escondido, CA
RE: I took your advice - now Z Pads are squealing!
Grease the backs of the pads where the metal plate meets the caliper pistons. Also a little grease on the two pins that hold the pads in place. Otherwise the pads set up some harmonics.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,642
Likes: 6
From: Forest Lake, Mn
RE: I took your advice - now Z Pads are squealing!
Check at the local parts store for brake anti-squeal. It comes with pads for cars, and is usually available as just a small tube in some parts stores.
Goes where Other Sheep puts the grease, but is designed for brakes. Can be yellow or a light blue (those are the colors up here, yours may vary)
It is NOT 100%, but does work quite often.
Also, once in a while, the squeal can be caused by dirty pads. (I know, these are 'new', but can still be dirty.) If you can, lift up the scoot, tire off the ground. Grab the can of brake cleaner (I prefer the chlorinated) \\;that you got at the parts store when you picked up the tube of anti-squeal.
Start spinning the wheel, and spray the brake cleaner where the pad meets the disc. SOMETIMES this will eliminate the sqeal, also.
Goes where Other Sheep puts the grease, but is designed for brakes. Can be yellow or a light blue (those are the colors up here, yours may vary)
It is NOT 100%, but does work quite often.
Also, once in a while, the squeal can be caused by dirty pads. (I know, these are 'new', but can still be dirty.) If you can, lift up the scoot, tire off the ground. Grab the can of brake cleaner (I prefer the chlorinated) \\;that you got at the parts store when you picked up the tube of anti-squeal.
Start spinning the wheel, and spray the brake cleaner where the pad meets the disc. SOMETIMES this will eliminate the sqeal, also.
Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 596
Likes: 39
From:
RE: I took your advice - now Z Pads are squealing!
I also put some of those Lyndall pads on my softail, and they squeal like a pig on low speed stops. I tried all the tricks mentioned here and completely cleaned the calipers and pins and pistons. Great for about 300 miles, and now back to squealing. Gonna fling them in the weeds. Even the cheap stock ones weren't this bad.
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 462
Likes: 0
From: Northwest Pa.
RE: I took your advice - now Z Pads are squealing!
I have put Lyndall pads on all of my bikes for years and have never had a problem.... till now. I put a new HD floating rear rotor on my 03 EGC with a set of Z-Pads and the noise is horrible! It happens just before the bike comes to a complete stop.
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,360
Likes: 453
From: Davie, FL
RE: I took your advice - now Z Pads are squealing!
ORIGINAL: xmeter
I have put Lyndall pads on all of my bikes for years and have never had a problem.... till now. I put a new HD floating rear rotor on my 03 EGC with a set of Z-Pads and the noise is horrible! It happens just before the bike comes to a complete stop.
I have put Lyndall pads on all of my bikes for years and have never had a problem.... till now. I put a new HD floating rear rotor on my 03 EGC with a set of Z-Pads and the noise is horrible! It happens just before the bike comes to a complete stop.
when changing compounds (one brake material to another) you MUST hone off the existing brake material layer first (in these cases Sintered to Organic). Brakes like these (all materials &\\;\\\\\\; all brands) rely on a layer of transfered material from the pad onto the rotor. This is how they stop. If you have dissimilar materials the results can be unwanted. If you did not hone your rotors you are asking for problems. You can also find proper installation techniques listed on my site under DIY. It does not cost anything other than $10 ~ $15 at your local auto store and some work on your part.
I clean out my calipers by removing the brake pads every 2,500 mi by squirting them down with brake cleaner. Ya, 2.5K mi. The same time you service your bike yourself as per manual. I remove the fronts off the fork legs. Ya, I service my own bike and make sure it works properly. To those who say it takes too much time to complete and keep your brakes and other safety equipment in good working order, please do not post anything. That is your choice and I hope I do not come in contact with you.
xmeter ~ You can do the following. Go to my DIY and try to correct the problem by using the methods I outlined, also check the alignment of the caliper in relation with the rotor. Your situation can be corrected with work. You can eliminate the hone part as you have a new rotor. If this does not work call me for advanced help.
This is not an endorsement for any brake pad company but methods which will work for all manufactures.
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