Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Original bearing lasted about 5,000 miles, replacement lasted about 33,000 miles. I got a Baker sealed bearing this time but it wasn't really a true sealed bearing, so I removed the covers and ported the oil feed.
Thirteen rollers, eight chewed up, five had normal wear, inner race had normal wear.
Using Amsoil ATF
I previously installed a Screamin Eagle compensator with the 2007 and up rotor & stator. I removed them only to inspect them during the inner primary bearing replacement, there was only a little bit of shavings stuck to the rotor magnets and the compensator had minimal wear, so you can probably just leave the compensator alone and just remove the outer primary, clutch assembly, tensioner, chain, and the inner primary. If you have the original rotor it might be a good time to pull it to torque and tack weld the screws.
Originally Posted by WS6 Formula
Possible causes, flip a coin:
Alignment (Primary to Trans shaft)
Too much tension on chain (Automatic tensioner)
Oil starvation (Oil feed hole not capturing enough oil, may also be starved if idled on the kickstand for too long)
Inferior bearing material
Inner primary bearing failure:
Possible causes, flip a coin:
Alignment (Primary to Trans shaft)
Too much tension on chain (Automatic tensioner)
Oil starvation (Oil feed hole not capturing enough oil, may also be starved if idled on the kickstand for too long)
Inferior bearing material
2005 And Earlier No Dowel Bushings Manual Chain Tensioner
2006 No Dowel Bushings Automatic Chain Tensioner
2007 And Later With Dowel Bushings Automatic Chain Tensioner
Last edited by WS6 Formula; 06-29-2017 at 10:16 AM.
Reason: Added info
Did you decide to port the oil feed oil on your own or did Baker recommend it?
Does the new Baker bearing come with the new race? Did you have to press it on by itself or was it already combined with the bearing and installed with the inner primary somehow?
Did you decide to port the oil feed oil on your own or did Baker recommend it?
Does the new Baker bearing come with the new race? Did you have to press it on by itself or was it already combined with the bearing and installed with the inner primary somehow?
Thanks!
This was my own idea, since the bearing turned out not to be a true sealed bearing I figured the grease would probably dissolve in the hot primary oil over time and the shields would also limit oil getting in. So I removed the shields and ported the oil feed to capture more oil to feed more to the bearing. I did the same on a friends bike last year, see below quote.
The Baker bearing is just a regular bearing that gets pressed into the inner primary housing just like the original, the inner race thru hole is honed out for a slip fit onto the transmission shaft. The original bearings inner race is separate and gets pressed onto the transmission shaft. See below photos.
Baker bearing
Original bearing
Shielded bearing
Sealed bearing
Originally Posted by WS6 Formula
Some advice I passed on to my friend below, He is using the Baker bearing on a 2006 Low Rider:
Looks like the Harley Davidson fix of dowel pinning the trans housing to the inner primary for alignment might not be the fix as later models are having the same issue with the updated housings.
Possible causes, flip a coin:
Alignment (Primary to Trans shaft)
Too much tension on chain (Automatic tensioner)
Oil starvation (Oil feed hole not capturing enough oil, may also be starved if idled on the kickstand for too long)
Inferior bearing material (They had a updated inner race P/N)
Remove the bearing seals, chamfer the oil feed hole to capture more oil by grinding the material between the webs, you are going to make it like a little cup with the feed hole at the bottom of the cup. Set the the primary up right and spray some Windex or what ever on the primary and see how it flows into the chamfer to get an idea when you have grinded enough material off. Make sure the circlip isn't blocking the oil hole.
Use a bottle jack and a socket between you trucks differential, and the housing on a piece of cardboard to press the bearing in and out. Housing in oven at 200*F new bearing in freezer.
Shim material, yes, you need that to make sure that the bearing is centered on the shaft.
Bearing is self centered in the housing because of the press fit, not self centering on the shaft because the Baker bearing is too loose of a fit.
The other alignment would be when you install the housing, put all the bolts in and slowly crank each of them down evenly starting with a low torque, and slowly increase the torque until you reach full final torque. Purpose is not to put any preload on the bearing, so the housing isn't shifting and pushing up, down, left, or right.
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Originally Posted by misfitJason
The baker bearing doesn't use a race. Baker has recommended removing one of the shields to get more oil
Is that on their website? I could see removing both, drilling some bleed holes and reinstalling one shield on the clutch side so you would puddle up oil in the bearing as well as having a good oil flow going through.
Great write-up and visuals, thanks for posting! Can you describe the symptoms you heard or felt that caused you to open up the primary for a look-see? Thx!
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04-27-2017, 12:21 PM
2006 Inner Primary Bearing #2 Removal Photos
