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Shovelhead Clutch Adjustment Issues

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  #1  
Old 05-27-2017, 05:59 PM
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Default Shovelhead Clutch Adjustment Issues

Hey Guys,

I have adjusted the clutches on all my bikes (Evos and TC88) basically the same way without issue but this damn shovel I just picked up doesnt like it.

Here is the procedure I am using:
1. Put the bike on flat ground and put it NEUTRAL.
2. Fully loosen all the slack out of the clutch cable
3. Remove the lock nut on the clutch basket and fully loosen the adjuster screw.
4. Tighten the screw until it lightly seats, back it off 1/4 turn, tighten the locknut while making sure the screw doesnt move.
5. Tighten the clutch cable so it has a tiny bit of play before it engages. Usually enough so the side of a dime can go in there.

Now the issue is that the bike will not come out of gear when I pull the clutch although it has tension.

The only way to get it to be able to come out of gear is to tighten the adjuster screw pretty tight but then it wont kick over, the clutch slips and wont grab the belt.

If I throw out all info in my book I can get it adjusted but it will lurch even with the clutch in.

I have removed the plates and cleaned them, they also look to be in good shape.

Any suggestions? I think maybe the open BDL primary is screwing up the adjustment. 4 speed trans

Thanks!


 
  #2  
Old 05-27-2017, 11:50 PM
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Sounds like you doing everything right. How tight is the belt? How many clutch plates are you running? Sounds like maybe tranny is not lined up parallel with the engine. That will cause problems. Good luck.
 

Last edited by OLD 96; 05-27-2017 at 11:57 PM.
  #3  
Old 05-28-2017, 12:50 AM
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Problem is the clutch basket is free floating and that belt drive is always going to be tugging it to one side and dragging as you've found out, it's the nature of the bearing and the clearance the shovels have, get the belt tight enough the hubs always dragging. Tear down time and see what the guts look like and slap a Tamer kit in with an aluminium pressure plate and try again. Still may not clean it up a 100% but it will improve it.
 
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Old 05-28-2017, 01:24 AM
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He has a S&S Engine. Does not say how many CC. Has a tranny to primary support plate. He does not say if he is using a two bolt adjuster on tranny mount plate. If he trying to build a hot rod shovel you know he needs to over build ever thing. To save future headaches.
 

Last edited by OLD 96; 05-28-2017 at 01:28 AM.
  #5  
Old 05-28-2017, 05:06 AM
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I won't pretend to know anything about shovels, but 1/4 turn sure doesn't sound like very much to me. Will that even allow the clutch plates to separate far enough? I go 3/4 turn back on my TC's.
 
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Old 05-28-2017, 11:16 AM
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More turn out on the adjuster will make his problem worse. I'm going with twisted biker's explanation.
 
  #7  
Old 05-28-2017, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by hdbob2006
More turn out on the adjuster will make his problem worse. I'm going with twisted biker's explanation.
Been down this road with several bikes running those big belts , getting the clutch right is tough and a very detail oriented procedure. Slightest misalignment and it pulls.
 
  #8  
Old 05-28-2017, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by TwiZted Biker
Problem is the clutch basket is free floating and that belt drive is always going to be tugging it to one side and dragging as you've found out,
That set-up will never be anything but a PITA...if you want to run an open belt drive...buy one with a full motor plate or don't bother...most of the kits come with better clutch and electric start if you want.

http://beltdrives.com/open-drives-2/...models/evo-10s
 
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