2000 FXDWG, Turn Signal module, and M.Unit Blue
#1
2000 FXDWG, Turn Signal module, and M.Unit Blue
It's amazing how we can sometimes end up on a completely different road than we had first intended ... or is that just me?
I bought a 2000 Dyna Wide Glide just over a year ago. It's my first Harley. It started doing something strange few months ago: When I'd start it up, everything's fine. As soon as I hit about 10mph, the speedo would drop to 0, the (digital) odometer would go blank, the turn signals, when used, would light up but not flash, and the brake light was constantly lit. After about 5 miles, everything would return to normal. The issue would not return until the next time the bike was run cold.
Oh, and while the odometer was dark, it wasn't advancing. It would return with mileage showing where it left off when it went dark.
Over time, though, the problem grew more consistent, until finally it was a permanent situation any time the bike moved. While standing still, everything was fine. I then noticed that just revving the engine caused the issue to return.
I took it to my local mechanic, who's "been working on bikes for 30 years", and he determined the LED strip (combined brake, turn and running lights) had burned out. BTW, the bike also has its original incandescent brake/running light. The LED was added above the license plate (not by me, it was there when I bought the bike). He replaced the LED strip, tested the bike, and returned it to me. About 2 miles later, the problem returned.
While searching for answers on my own, I stumbled across a device called a Motogadgets M.Unit Blue. This thing seemed like a great upgrade, as it not only controls the turn signals and brake lights, but also connects to a smartphone, with the ability to remote-start, lock, and even alarm the bike just by walking away from it. When the bluetooth connection is dropped, the alarm is activated, and deactivated when bluetooth connection is re-established.
I bought this bike with the intention of customizing it, and this seemed to add great features (even more than mentioned above), as well as solve my original problem. Of course, I'm not an electrical expert, and I've never done this sort of thing before, so I've spent a lot of time researching wiring diagrams and help forums like this one, all to prepare myself for this job. While doing so, I discovered one significant issue: The original (and suspected faulty) turn signal module controls not just the turn signals, but also the speedometer! The M.Unit - naturally - does NOT.
Some other things to note: As you recall, I mentioned the LED rear lights. Also, the front turn signals are LED. Judging by the wear, I'd say they've been there for years. During removal of the battery, I discovered the previous owner had also installed a Badlands Illuminator Run/Brake/Turn Signal Module, which has a built-in load equalizer. I'm going to replace the incandescent brake light with a laser that throws a pattern on the ground behind the bike. The only incandescent left will be the headlight.
I emailed Motogadgets about this today, but I thought maybe someone in this forum might have some input. It appears to me that the M.Unit won't completely replace the TSM, therefore I'd need to have both in place. That wouldn't be a problem, if it weren't for the lack of space available.
Any ideas?
I bought a 2000 Dyna Wide Glide just over a year ago. It's my first Harley. It started doing something strange few months ago: When I'd start it up, everything's fine. As soon as I hit about 10mph, the speedo would drop to 0, the (digital) odometer would go blank, the turn signals, when used, would light up but not flash, and the brake light was constantly lit. After about 5 miles, everything would return to normal. The issue would not return until the next time the bike was run cold.
Oh, and while the odometer was dark, it wasn't advancing. It would return with mileage showing where it left off when it went dark.
Over time, though, the problem grew more consistent, until finally it was a permanent situation any time the bike moved. While standing still, everything was fine. I then noticed that just revving the engine caused the issue to return.
I took it to my local mechanic, who's "been working on bikes for 30 years", and he determined the LED strip (combined brake, turn and running lights) had burned out. BTW, the bike also has its original incandescent brake/running light. The LED was added above the license plate (not by me, it was there when I bought the bike). He replaced the LED strip, tested the bike, and returned it to me. About 2 miles later, the problem returned.
While searching for answers on my own, I stumbled across a device called a Motogadgets M.Unit Blue. This thing seemed like a great upgrade, as it not only controls the turn signals and brake lights, but also connects to a smartphone, with the ability to remote-start, lock, and even alarm the bike just by walking away from it. When the bluetooth connection is dropped, the alarm is activated, and deactivated when bluetooth connection is re-established.
I bought this bike with the intention of customizing it, and this seemed to add great features (even more than mentioned above), as well as solve my original problem. Of course, I'm not an electrical expert, and I've never done this sort of thing before, so I've spent a lot of time researching wiring diagrams and help forums like this one, all to prepare myself for this job. While doing so, I discovered one significant issue: The original (and suspected faulty) turn signal module controls not just the turn signals, but also the speedometer! The M.Unit - naturally - does NOT.
Some other things to note: As you recall, I mentioned the LED rear lights. Also, the front turn signals are LED. Judging by the wear, I'd say they've been there for years. During removal of the battery, I discovered the previous owner had also installed a Badlands Illuminator Run/Brake/Turn Signal Module, which has a built-in load equalizer. I'm going to replace the incandescent brake light with a laser that throws a pattern on the ground behind the bike. The only incandescent left will be the headlight.
I emailed Motogadgets about this today, but I thought maybe someone in this forum might have some input. It appears to me that the M.Unit won't completely replace the TSM, therefore I'd need to have both in place. That wouldn't be a problem, if it weren't for the lack of space available.
Any ideas?
#2
The TSM does not control the speedo. It has an input from the speed sensor for the turn signal cancelling feature.
The M.unit completely replaces the TSM & fuse panel, including the starter relay.
You will not need the Illuminator but if you intend to run triple function LED tails, you will need to install a cheap converter after the M.unit.
I had the Badlands Illuminator Pro III, original M.Unit, and now the M.Unit Blue. Along with most of the rest of the Motogadget catalog.
The M.unit completely replaces the TSM & fuse panel, including the starter relay.
You will not need the Illuminator but if you intend to run triple function LED tails, you will need to install a cheap converter after the M.unit.
I had the Badlands Illuminator Pro III, original M.Unit, and now the M.Unit Blue. Along with most of the rest of the Motogadget catalog.
#3
Excellent. So the TSM won't be necessary. Also, if I understand what you're saying, the corollary would be that signal canceling would be completely time-based (per the m.unit's programming), regardless of speed. I have no problem with that.
Thanks also for the note about the illuminator. I'll have to dig through the manual to figure out where it's at ... and what it looks like.
Thanks also for the note about the illuminator. I'll have to dig through the manual to figure out where it's at ... and what it looks like.
#4
Correct. As of the last firmware, turn signal cancelling was time based, with a timer reset on every brake application. It's a pretty smart "universal" solution. I did submit a suggestion to Motogadget requesting that they integrate the speed signal for various additional functionality, including distance-based signal cancellong and gear indicator. Not that my lone voice will be heard but I did want to have it on record.
The illuminator is a small black plastic box a bit bigger than a Zippo. Easy to hide. I stashed mine under the seat. Could also be tucked in with the fuse panel.
The illuminator is a small black plastic box a bit bigger than a Zippo. Easy to hide. I stashed mine under the seat. Could also be tucked in with the fuse panel.
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MJR35 (08-02-2018)
#6
Cool. I removed mine (illuminator pro III, slightly different, but same idea) after the m.unit went in but I still needed a trailer wiring adapter to make the 3 function (run/turn/brake) tail lights operate correctly. It was a simple $20 unit. I can get you an Amazon link and thread reference if you need.
The following users liked this post:
MJR35 (08-02-2018)
#7
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#9
Kind of a trick question. They are designed for both incandescent and LED lights. They are fully digital and use PWM (pulse width modulation) and digital timers (or relays in the case of the headlights) to manage dim/bright/blink/etc.
SOO.... No, they don't technically have "load equalizers" because they don't need them. No heat is generated and no extra electrical load/resistance added. It just works.
Every light on my bike is LED. Most are high-power diodes (3-5W each) but the indicators and instrument lights are small low power diodes. The M-Unit doesn't blink an eye.
Bonus prize is that since it's all digital you can select various modes for the brake and turn and even a delayed headlight-off (like if you wanted some light to walk from thw garage to the house)
And a 2-stage alarm and elimination of all factory relays/fuses (other than the main 40A relay)...including the starter relay...and keyless start with the Blue...and...and...and.
Yeah. I love my M-Unit.
SOO.... No, they don't technically have "load equalizers" because they don't need them. No heat is generated and no extra electrical load/resistance added. It just works.
Every light on my bike is LED. Most are high-power diodes (3-5W each) but the indicators and instrument lights are small low power diodes. The M-Unit doesn't blink an eye.
Bonus prize is that since it's all digital you can select various modes for the brake and turn and even a delayed headlight-off (like if you wanted some light to walk from thw garage to the house)
And a 2-stage alarm and elimination of all factory relays/fuses (other than the main 40A relay)...including the starter relay...and keyless start with the Blue...and...and...and.
Yeah. I love my M-Unit.
#10
Kind of a trick question. They are designed for both incandescent and LED lights. They are fully digital and use PWM (pulse width modulation) and digital timers (or relays in the case of the headlights) to manage dim/bright/blink/etc.
SOO.... No, they don't technically have "load equalizers" because they don't need them. No heat is generated and no extra electrical load/resistance added. It just works.
Every light on my bike is LED. Most are high-power diodes (3-5W each) but the indicators and instrument lights are small low power diodes. The M-Unit doesn't blink an eye.
Bonus prize is that since it's all digital you can select various modes for the brake and turn and even a delayed headlight-off (like if you wanted some light to walk from thw garage to the house)
And a 2-stage alarm and elimination of all factory relays/fuses (other than the main 40A relay)...including the starter relay...and keyless start with the Blue...and...and...and.
Yeah. I love my M-Unit.
SOO.... No, they don't technically have "load equalizers" because they don't need them. No heat is generated and no extra electrical load/resistance added. It just works.
Every light on my bike is LED. Most are high-power diodes (3-5W each) but the indicators and instrument lights are small low power diodes. The M-Unit doesn't blink an eye.
Bonus prize is that since it's all digital you can select various modes for the brake and turn and even a delayed headlight-off (like if you wanted some light to walk from thw garage to the house)
And a 2-stage alarm and elimination of all factory relays/fuses (other than the main 40A relay)...including the starter relay...and keyless start with the Blue...and...and...and.
Yeah. I love my M-Unit.
And especially since, being a technophobe, I don't need the "blue" model, I might find one a bit cheaper.