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Drop-in Cams for 110" engine?

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Old 03-10-2019, 07:16 AM
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Default Drop-in Cams for 110" engine?

I just got my '14 CVO RK with the 110" engine and 1550 miles on the odometer.

It's a bone stock engine with V&H slip ons and the ECM was not flashed by the dealership. It seems to be running great, after only two short cold weather rides.

I've read on here that many have upgraded the lifters, pushrods and inner cam bearings in their 110s, to avoid potential issues..

If I have all that done, it would be an ideal time to change the cams and have it dyno tuned.

So with that in mind: what are the most commonly used drop-in cams for the 110" that give a nice boost? Or should I stay with the OEM cams?

Any input is welcome and appreciated.


 
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Old 03-10-2019, 08:32 AM
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If installing cams, to get the best results from them you might want to consider removing the factory header as well. If not, your most likely going to leave a lot on the table HP & TQ wise for it wont breath properly. Look at the TW-222 cam's and a good header.
Fuel Moto has a nice header and all. You might even consider the PV-2 and use a vendor supplied map.
 
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Old 03-11-2019, 04:55 AM
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Originally Posted by GlidingJoe
If installing cams, to get the best results from them you might want to consider removing the factory header as well. If not, your most likely going to leave a lot on the table HP & TQ wise for it wont breath properly. Look at the TW-222 cam's and a good header. Fuel Moto has a nice header and all. You might even consider the PV-2 and use a vendor supplied map.
Thanks Joe. Did anyone go with the Red Shift 587 cam?
 
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Old 03-11-2019, 05:53 AM
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Where do you want the power to be ? You'll be hard pressed to find a better low end can than the 255s. They do run out on top but do you shift before 5k rpm? I have,an 08 cvo road king and think the 255s are underrated. I have a true dual Rinehart system and an 58mm throttle body and had a good dyno tune done and it was night and day between that and the half assed stage one the p.o. had on the bike. For piece of mind change out the lifters, its easier to go with adjustable push rods at this point. Change out the inner cam bearings and then think about getting a good exhaust system and then you can decide between a good tuner or a good dyno tune...id pick the dyno tune if you have a good one near you. A bolt in cam for the 110??? It's already pretty low on compression so your choices are limited and for the m9ney spent you might be disappointed with results compared to just a well tuned stage one. Spend the money and get the heads done to get some compression and then your cam choices really expand and it will be a change you'll really feel too.
 
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Old 03-11-2019, 06:16 AM
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Thanks Beagle. Will expand my thinking to include head work.
 
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Old 03-11-2019, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Plow64
Thanks Beagle. Will expand my thinking to include head work.
I completely agree.. even mild porting and polishing will make a difference allowing different cams.. Here is a link to my '15 CVO 110" FM did for me. I will ad with this setup, there was power and torque left behind due to factory Screamin Eagle Ventilator w/K&N filter. They need to breath.

https://university.fuelmotousa.com/dyno-charts/ 11th one down in the Harley-Davidson 110ci CVO / S Twin Cam Models section.

Just food for thought.
 
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Old 03-22-2019, 05:39 PM
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Stay with the 255's. I went back after 259e.
 
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Old 03-22-2019, 09:28 PM
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I pulled the 255 and put in the 24d (CVO 110) and I'm very happy with it (stock compression for now).

No noticeable loss on the bottom-end and a lot more power in the middle and high end.

Bike just feels like its running free and easy, no restrictions and way cooler. Also bought a PowerVision from Fuel Moto and with their baseline canned tune that runs great.

I ride with with a few guys with some well built motors and nobody can run away from me with my little cam and a good tune.

Other tweaks include Cobra Power Duals, 4" Rineharts, Xtreme Machine Dominate air cleaner with a Boyesen Power Wing. This set up just works.

When I had it apart I also did the cam tensioner shoes, SE adjustable pushrods, new bearings and rocker lockers.

Good luck with your decision.

PS: I see you live in No. VA, so if your not doing the work yourself I'd recommend handing your bike and credit card to Zipper's Performance and let them do the magic for you. Just follow their advice and you'll ride away very happy.
 

Last edited by Bgill; 03-22-2019 at 09:33 PM.
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Old 03-22-2019, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Plow64
Thanks Joe. Did anyone go with the Red Shift 587 cam?
I put 587's in my Low Rider S and I love it.

With the 255's and a Two Bros Comp S pipe it made 91 hp and 110 tq. Good numbers but the curve dove super hard above 4k RPM.

RS587 made 98 hp and 116 tq but a much better curve. Horsepower was pretty flat towards 6500 but never dropped like it used to. I would expect a touring bike to make better numbers, because of the longer exhaust system. My Two Bros pipe sounded great, but I think it hurt power.

In my opinion, the cylinder heads are what really hold back the 110 motors. The 587 maximizes what it can out of the heads.

I eventually put the SE 117 kit on my Dyna, but I left the 587's in the cam chest. The 259E's are a horsepower cam that come with the kit. They make great Dyno numbers, but didn't fit with every day riding. After the 117 kit and a Thrashin Supply AR pipe, the LRS made 108 hp and 130 tq with the 587's.
 

Last edited by Internet Cowboy; 03-22-2019 at 09:45 PM.
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  #10  
Old 03-23-2019, 11:10 AM
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I used SE 585 cams in my 110 build. Great low end torque... I did have some other work done but still might be a good choice.
 
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