Cams for 00 dyna
#1
Cams for 00 dyna
So I'm keeping the 88" and not doing the heads, yet, but I'm looking into changing out the slouch stock cam. I've settled on a selection between two. The S&S 509 and the fueling reaper 525. My old man is telling me to get the s&s but I'm leaning for the 525.
I ride mostly 2 up and have a fairly agressive riding style. Not looking for peak HP but more power in the 2000 to redline range.
I was told that if o was going to leave my heads and pistons stock then the 509 would be a good choice. But if I did any head work later or bumped the compression that I would need to change it out. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
I ride mostly 2 up and have a fairly agressive riding style. Not looking for peak HP but more power in the 2000 to redline range.
I was told that if o was going to leave my heads and pistons stock then the 509 would be a good choice. But if I did any head work later or bumped the compression that I would need to change it out. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
#2
#4
Good call on the ignition but if it is the DYNATEK unit, I don't believe it is programmable like the Dyna Twin Tec TC88 unit. Both have different timing curves but the DTT allows one to download custom ignition curves. That may not be a feature you are interested in and/or I could be mistaken on the DYNATEK. Just something to check before purchasing.
#5
#6
An S&S .510 is going to feel like a turd in an 88" until about 3500, or more.
The intake closing number of that cam dictates the need for much more compression.
I believe the company Instagram has an 88"/.510 before, and 98"/.510 after.
We use Andrews 21's here as the favored plug and play cam for an 88".
Scott
The intake closing number of that cam dictates the need for much more compression.
I believe the company Instagram has an 88"/.510 before, and 98"/.510 after.
We use Andrews 21's here as the favored plug and play cam for an 88".
Scott
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HILLSIDE MOTORCYCLE & MACHINE, INC.
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HILLSIDE MOTORCYCLE & MACHINE, INC.
HARLEY-DAVIDSON SPEED & SERVICE CENTER
5225 SOUTH MAIN ST., MUNNSVILLE, N.Y. 13409
Sales/Support 315-495-6650
www.hillsidecycle.com
Walk-in Retail Showroom
Complete H-D Machine Shop
Case & cylinder boring
Complete Cylinder Head Shop
High-Performance Engine Kits
Crank Rebuilding
Direct Link & PowerVision Tuning
Goodson HD Tooling Manufacturer
Maxton Mile World Record
4500 sq ft. facility
OVER 35 YEARS OF H-D ENGINE BUILDING.
See us on Facebook.
#7
Hillside, I do understand that. I actually spoke to you about the tw21 on the phone a couple weeks ago. The guy I'm getting the 510 from had it in a se 95" and switched to one of your kits and a much larger cam. I'm mainly getting g it for the gear drive setup as I'll be honest I'm only paying $200 for the se cam plate, cams, gears, lifters and oil pump.
If it wasn't for that price I'd be going with the 509 cam. The tw21 is a good cam but I think it would fall off way too fast for my style of riding. I very rarely see under 2500rpm and that's only when crusing at 60mph. Even stock as it is I try to keep the rpm around 3k or so unless like I said in on a 55mph road. This winter it will probably be getting bored/slightly more compression and a mild port job on the heads. If I had a larger bike I think that the 21 would be perfect. So I've read that a 4* advance on the cams moves the power band to the left a couple hundred rpm. How hard would it be to do on a gear drive setup?
If it wasn't for that price I'd be going with the 509 cam. The tw21 is a good cam but I think it would fall off way too fast for my style of riding. I very rarely see under 2500rpm and that's only when crusing at 60mph. Even stock as it is I try to keep the rpm around 3k or so unless like I said in on a 55mph road. This winter it will probably be getting bored/slightly more compression and a mild port job on the heads. If I had a larger bike I think that the 21 would be perfect. So I've read that a 4* advance on the cams moves the power band to the left a couple hundred rpm. How hard would it be to do on a gear drive setup?
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#8
Totally agree with Scott; I don't think you will be happy with the 510. I have tested cams on the dyno and the 4* advance will not make much difference; the 21 intake closes at 30* and the 509 intake closes at 18* so 4* isn't going to do much; shaving the heads and a .030" head gasket is a way better approach to increasing compression. Great price on the cams and associated hardware but sticking with the 509 or the 21 and selling the 510s would be a smarter move.
The CV carb will perform better with stock components. Another dyno test I did with the CV44 on my all bore 107. Got much better results by removing the aftermarket components (Yost kit) and replacing with OEM hardware. I did open up the vacuum port to 1/8" and install the lighter spring but all needle, needle jet, slow and main jets are all OEM parts. I used the .025" washers (CV parts has them) to adjust the needle as needed. The dyno doesn't lie, measurable increases in both TQ and HP and better looking curve with OEM parts.
The CV carb will perform better with stock components. Another dyno test I did with the CV44 on my all bore 107. Got much better results by removing the aftermarket components (Yost kit) and replacing with OEM hardware. I did open up the vacuum port to 1/8" and install the lighter spring but all needle, needle jet, slow and main jets are all OEM parts. I used the .025" washers (CV parts has them) to adjust the needle as needed. The dyno doesn't lie, measurable increases in both TQ and HP and better looking curve with OEM parts.
#9
#10
Totally agree with Scott; I don't think you will be happy with the 510. I have tested cams on the dyno and the 4* advance will not make much difference; the 21 intake closes at 30* and the 509 intake closes at 18* so 4* isn't going to do much; shaving the heads and a .030" head gasket is a way better approach to increasing compression. Great price on the cams and associated hardware but sticking with the 509 or the 21 and selling the 510s would be a smarter move.
The CV carb will perform better with stock components. Another dyno test I did with the CV44 on my all bore 107. Got much better results by removing the aftermarket components (Yost kit) and replacing with OEM hardware. I did open up the vacuum port to 1/8" and install the lighter spring but all needle, needle jet, slow and main jets are all OEM parts. I used the .025" washers (CV parts has them) to adjust the needle as needed. The dyno doesn't lie, measurable increases in both TQ and HP and better looking curve with OEM parts.
The CV carb will perform better with stock components. Another dyno test I did with the CV44 on my all bore 107. Got much better results by removing the aftermarket components (Yost kit) and replacing with OEM hardware. I did open up the vacuum port to 1/8" and install the lighter spring but all needle, needle jet, slow and main jets are all OEM parts. I used the .025" washers (CV parts has them) to adjust the needle as needed. The dyno doesn't lie, measurable increases in both TQ and HP and better looking curve with OEM parts.