Clutch slip .
#1
Clutch slip .
Oh why did I have to interfere ? When I got my 2004 Roadster a few weeks ago there was no hint of clutch slip even when accelerating hard at high speed. As I do with any second hand bike I went and changed the oil (s) . I put Drag Specialities Sportster Gear and Chain case Oil in the primary and now when I accelerate very hard when I'm already at speed I get clutch slip . It's was only for a few seconds because as soon as it happened I backed off the throttle but it was definitely there. When I changed the primary oil , the stuff that came out was somewhat thinner ( When cold )than what I put back in . It was also fairly clean and was reddish in colour. The thing is, I didn't throw it away so my question is can anyone see any reason why I shouldn't try draining the new oil and putting this stuff back in ? There will obviously be some mixing of old and new oil but it's not like it's going to turn to jelly ( jello ) is it ? Gotta be worth a try .
#2
Maybe the oil had nothing to do with the slipping and needs clutch adjustment? Or are you thinking the previous oil was hiding/preventing the clutch slip temporarily? Sounds like ATF fluid was in there if reddish in color. Is that the proper oil? Does it smell like ATF? Just my thoughts, could be wrong.
#3
Maybe the oil had nothing to do with the slipping and needs clutch adjustment? Or are you thinking the previous oil was hiding/preventing the clutch slip temporarily? Sounds like ATF fluid was in there if reddish in color. Is that the proper oil? Does it smell like ATF? Just my thoughts, could be wrong.
#4
Join Date: Jan 2019
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Here are my suggestions as I have just done a primary/clutch service:
1. Drain this new oil (hot) out - it’s no good. Drain on the jiffy stand and also then stand the bike up vertical for 5 mins. It’s all in the service manual - this way all the oil drains.
2. Get the Harley Primary/Transmission oil from your Harley store - it’s not outrageously expensive at all, buy 1qrt, which in the UK means the bottle will be 1 litre. (1 litre=946 ml).
3. Now at this point I then took
my derby (clutch) cover off and followed the precise instructions to adjust the clutch at the clutch basket. One flat blade screw driver is all you need. If you want me to describe this procedure “pm” me - it’s all over the internet though.
4. Check sump o-ring and clean sump bolt - screw back in & also for me I then put the derby cover back on with a new o-ring, taking care to ensure the clutch-spring in the centre seats correctly in the housing.
5. Before this I had looked at my clutch lever position at the bar and was happy before and after my work.
Go ride. Should be no slip. Unless, your plates are wearing out far too early for some reason.
My thoughts are why do people mess about putting different oils in their primary , other than Harley’s own recommended stuff? I’ve heard people complain of the price, well here in the UK I paid the equivalent of $15., that’s pretty cheap! Ive always been super careful with my other bikes as clutches are very sensitive to oil additives and in my view you just don’t know what might be going in with modern oils.
1. Drain this new oil (hot) out - it’s no good. Drain on the jiffy stand and also then stand the bike up vertical for 5 mins. It’s all in the service manual - this way all the oil drains.
2. Get the Harley Primary/Transmission oil from your Harley store - it’s not outrageously expensive at all, buy 1qrt, which in the UK means the bottle will be 1 litre. (1 litre=946 ml).
3. Now at this point I then took
my derby (clutch) cover off and followed the precise instructions to adjust the clutch at the clutch basket. One flat blade screw driver is all you need. If you want me to describe this procedure “pm” me - it’s all over the internet though.
4. Check sump o-ring and clean sump bolt - screw back in & also for me I then put the derby cover back on with a new o-ring, taking care to ensure the clutch-spring in the centre seats correctly in the housing.
5. Before this I had looked at my clutch lever position at the bar and was happy before and after my work.
Go ride. Should be no slip. Unless, your plates are wearing out far too early for some reason.
My thoughts are why do people mess about putting different oils in their primary , other than Harley’s own recommended stuff? I’ve heard people complain of the price, well here in the UK I paid the equivalent of $15., that’s pretty cheap! Ive always been super careful with my other bikes as clutches are very sensitive to oil additives and in my view you just don’t know what might be going in with modern oils.
Last edited by steveket; 05-26-2019 at 03:39 AM.
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Sorce (05-26-2019)
#5
#6
Here are my suggestions as I have just done a primary/clutch service:
1. Drain this new oil (hot) out - it’s no good. Drain on the jiffy stand and also then stand the bike up vertical for 5 mins. It’s all in the service manual - this way all the oil drains.
2. Get the Harley Primary/Transmission oil from your Harley store - it’s not outrageously expensive at all, buy 1qrt, which in the UK means the bottle will be 1 litre. (1 litre=946 ml).
3. Now at this point I then took
my derby (clutch) cover off and followed the precise instructions to adjust the clutch at the clutch basket. One flat blade screw driver is all you need. If you want me to describe this procedure “pm” me - it’s all over the internet though.
4. Check sump o-ring and clean sump bolt - screw back in & also for me I then put the derby cover back on with a new o-ring, taking care to ensure the clutch-spring in the centre seats correctly in the housing.
5. Before this I had looked at my clutch lever position at the bar and was happy before and after my work.
Go ride. Should be no slip. Unless, your plates are wearing out far too early for some reason.
My thoughts are why do people mess about putting different oils in their primary , other than Harley’s own recommended stuff? I’ve heard people complain of the price, well here in the UK I paid the equivalent of $15., that’s pretty cheap! Ive always been super careful with my other bikes as clutches are very sensitive to oil additives and in my view you just don’t know what might be going in with modern oils.
1. Drain this new oil (hot) out - it’s no good. Drain on the jiffy stand and also then stand the bike up vertical for 5 mins. It’s all in the service manual - this way all the oil drains.
2. Get the Harley Primary/Transmission oil from your Harley store - it’s not outrageously expensive at all, buy 1qrt, which in the UK means the bottle will be 1 litre. (1 litre=946 ml).
3. Now at this point I then took
my derby (clutch) cover off and followed the precise instructions to adjust the clutch at the clutch basket. One flat blade screw driver is all you need. If you want me to describe this procedure “pm” me - it’s all over the internet though.
4. Check sump o-ring and clean sump bolt - screw back in & also for me I then put the derby cover back on with a new o-ring, taking care to ensure the clutch-spring in the centre seats correctly in the housing.
5. Before this I had looked at my clutch lever position at the bar and was happy before and after my work.
Go ride. Should be no slip. Unless, your plates are wearing out far too early for some reason.
My thoughts are why do people mess about putting different oils in their primary , other than Harley’s own recommended stuff? I’ve heard people complain of the price, well here in the UK I paid the equivalent of $15., that’s pretty cheap! Ive always been super careful with my other bikes as clutches are very sensitive to oil additives and in my view you just don’t know what might be going in with modern oils.
#7
Join Date: Jan 2019
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