I have this polisher. I am trying to find out what pads to buy for it. Currently i only have a grinding disc for it. Any help would be great. I am trying to polish up my fairing.

 

Unless you have experience with a rotary, I would suggest you don't use that on paint. Chances are you will do more harm than good. Get a DA polisher, get some experience, then if you feel the need play around with that.
There might be 10 guys in the world that can finish out hologram free on black paint. Ive been detailing for 15 years and Im not one of them.
Don't know if your bike is black, but thats just to give you and idea.
I cant tell if its variable speed or not. But if you were using it as a grinder, that is way to fast for polishing paint

 

I sure do appreciate the heads up. It does have variable speeds. I will try a different route. As a detailer do you have any suggestions on how i could clean up my fairing, bags etc...

 

1. Wash
2. Clay
3. Test spot to determine pad and product
4.Polsih out
5. LSP

Lots of great articles on AutoGeek about processes and techniques.

 

That's not looking good. You will need a very good wetsand before polishing. As long as all those dots aren't rockchips. Take a 2000 grit wet sandpaper and try wetsanding and polishing an area on your fairing. After sanding use a no 1 polish then no2 and finish with a no3.
Get a cheap small polisher and use a spray bottle of water to put a little dampness on as you polish.Polish lightly and slowly using a small amount at a time. you will know very quick if it indeed it can be polished.

 

The rotary polisher works great for correcting.. With that being said I wouldn't practice on anything but scrap panels from body shop to begin with. Hybrid wool pads will work good with that rotary. Wet sand with 1500/2000 then 3000. You can get a decent DA polisher from Harbor freight for about $50. I've used one for years. Orange foam pad after wet sand. Meguiers 205. Watch a couple videos on YouTube on correcting, practice on a few scrap panels.

 

Wet sanding factory clear is asking for trouble. OP I would not follow this advice.
Rotary polisher is a work horse in correcting for sure, but only in the right hands.

You guys have recommended wet sanding, but how much clear is left?
A #1 polish, what is that? Do you mean a compound?
A #2 polish, what is that? Do you mean a medium polish?
A #3 polish, What is that? Do you mean a finish polish? Menzerna, Sonax, Griots, Jescar, etc, do not use 1, 2, 3. Maybe 3M did way back in the day. Abrasive technology has advanced big time in the last 10yrs missionwop. No need for "Rocks in a bottle".
The HF polisher is not even close to a decent polisher, its a POS. If buying for a 1 time deal OK. If using more then once, hell no.
That paint doesnt need to be wet sanded. Ive corrected many cars, trucks, bikes, not one time have I wet sanded. With abrasive technology, pad advancement, and the thinness of factory clear, I will not wet sand any factory paint.

 

Thanks for all the replies. This is why i was asking. Most of the spots in the pic are bugs, some of the other stuff is old scuffs and normal wear. I am not terribly worried about it, i just thought i could buff some of it out. I will run by a body shop and see what can be done. Thanks

 

Find a local detailer, not a body shop