Stage II vs Stage III Big Bore for slow/parking lot rideability
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1st Gear
Joined: Jun 2026
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From: Sarasota, FL
Stage II vs Stage III Big Bore for slow/parking lot rideability
I'm posting this question here instead of the Tech & Mechanical forum because my focus is on rideability....I'm looking at options through Fuel Moto for either a Stage II Camshaft, etc. upgrade vs. going with a M8 124" BIg Bore Stage III, to go on my 2017 Street Glide Special (107" M8). I've been unable to locate much info on how the Big Bore kit affects rideability at parking lot speeds, other than hearing that a Stage IV big bore produced a bike that chugged below 2500 RPM and made it a real chore at slow speeds.
Has anyone here done the 124" Stage III, and can you comment on how that affected rideability, particularly in the parking lot or stop-and-go traffic?
Any general feedback on your experience w Stage II vs Stage III (and any regrets) also appreciated!
Has anyone here done the 124" Stage III, and can you comment on how that affected rideability, particularly in the parking lot or stop-and-go traffic?
Any general feedback on your experience w Stage II vs Stage III (and any regrets) also appreciated!
Last edited by Jscifers; Jun 7, 2026 at 11:26 AM. Reason: additional info
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If I’m wrong, please enlighten me, but doesn’t controlling your bike at parking lot speeds and in stop-and-go traffic have more to do with throttle control, rear brake control and clutch friction zone control? What’s having or nor having a big bore or lumpy cam have to do with it?
Last edited by GalvTexGuy; Jun 7, 2026 at 02:25 PM.
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From: Virginia
If Im wrong, please enlighten me, but doesnt controlling your bike at parking lot speeds and in stop-and-go traffic have more to do with throttle control, rear brake control and clutch friction zone control? Whats having or nor having a big bore or lumpy cam have to do with it?
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1st Gear
Joined: Jun 2026
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From: Sarasota, FL
Thanks, and I understand your point about the fundamentals. Thing is, without having ridden (or seen videos of) a bagger with something like a 124" motor doing low-speed maneuvers, I can only go off of what I have heard, and info on that is pretty sparse. What I picture causing potential issues is having to keep unusually high revs in the friction zone (e.g. the bike mentioned above, which I saw at a local HD dealer and was told is prone to dying if revs aren't kept above 2500 RPM when starting from a stop) or the bike being super-sensitive to throttle inputs with monster torque on tap (again, that can be mitigated my modulating power going to the wheel using the friction zone while doing a something like a tight U-turn, but it seems like the sensitivity could leave little room for error).
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From: Virginia
Thanks, and I understand your point about the fundamentals. Thing is, without having ridden (or seen videos of) a bagger with something like a 124" motor doing low-speed maneuvers, I can only go off of what I have heard, and info on that is pretty sparse. What I picture causing potential issues is having to keep unusually high revs in the friction zone (e.g. the bike mentioned above, which I saw at a local HD dealer and was told is prone to dying if revs aren't kept above 2500 RPM when starting from a stop) or the bike being super-sensitive to throttle inputs with monster torque on tap (again, that can be mitigated my modulating power going to the wheel using the friction zone while doing a something like a tight U-turn, but it seems like the sensitivity could leave little room for error).
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From: Somewhere on the Bourbon trail
I don't know what you're after in a jug size and cam combo, but I agree with what's been said. It really doesn't matter whether you have a horsepower monster Hyabusa or your current bike with torque monster cams. Proper technique wins in the slow speed maneuvers.
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From: Montana
Thanks, and I understand your point about the fundamentals. Thing is, without having ridden (or seen videos of) a bagger with something like a 124" motor doing low-speed maneuvers, I can only go off of what I have heard, and info on that is pretty sparse. What I picture causing potential issues is having to keep unusually high revs in the friction zone (e.g. the bike mentioned above, which I saw at a local HD dealer and was told is prone to dying if revs aren't kept above 2500 RPM when starting from a stop) or the bike being super-sensitive to throttle inputs with monster torque on tap (again, that can be mitigated my modulating power going to the wheel using the friction zone while doing a something like a tight U-turn, but it seems like the sensitivity could leave little room for error).
The build has been very reliable for over 40K miles.
I would do it all over again except my next bike was a 135 CVO RG ST.
135 FT/LB torque @ 2500 RPM is not what I would consider "chugging out!"
It would be an interesting conversation for that local HD dealer to tell me it's prone to dying if revs aren't kept above 2500 RPM!
Providing of course it has been properly tuned!
Very rideable and also very fun to ride!
Last edited by Beartooth Rider; Jun 7, 2026 at 07:09 PM.
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Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 71
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From: Mason City
From a 107 stage 2 SE Torque cam to a 119 stage 3 with the Star Racing 30 30 cam setup. 132 torque 120 horse power. No different on slow speed handling, just lots more shake at idle. Torque hits quickly at 2000 rpms. Plenty of tractor pull power.