FXSB Breakout Upgrade DIY: Fork Suspension / Tires / Brake -Part numbers, tools, tips
#211
10-01-2017, 02:53 AM
Great thread, great advise, thanks LAdog. I completed the RaceTech / Ricor upgrade to my '14 CVO BO a few weeks back and have done over 400kms since. The handling is sooo much better and more predictable, on a dollar for benefit scale this is a mega bargain. I used 1.1kg springs as I am 105kg, I measured the air gap with 5W fork oil in, slider down and spring out at 85mm rather than oil volume only, changed the rear spring preload to 1-3/4 anti clockwise. I am still running the standard tyres at 38/42psi but will look at changing them out to Avon Cobras over the next few months. As for the EBC HH pads (FA457HH & FA458HH) the CVO uses the same as the standard BO take a little bit of bedding in but work a treat a lot less front end dive during braking events, worth every penny.
Last edited by tjcoogan; 10-01-2017 at 02:57 AM.
#212
10-01-2017, 05:17 AM
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Great thread, great advise, thanks LAdog. I completed the RaceTech / Ricor upgrade to my '14 CVO BO a few weeks back and have done over 400kms since. The handling is sooo much better and more predictable, on a dollar for benefit scale this is a mega bargain. I used 1.1kg springs as I am 105kg, I measured the air gap with 5W fork oil in, slider down and spring out at 85mm rather than oil volume only, changed the rear spring preload to 1-3/4 anti clockwise. I am still running the standard tyres at 38/42psi but will look at changing them out to Avon Cobras over the next few months. As for the EBC HH pads (FA457HH & FA458HH) the CVO uses the same as the standard BO take a little bit of bedding in but work a treat a lot less front end dive during braking events, worth every penny.
If you want to crank the handling improvement up a notch, install the Superbrace fork brace to stop your forks from flexing. Oh they do flex, you just won't be aware of it till you stop the flexing with a brace and feel the improvement in curve stability and precision.
Simple install,, great results.
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tjcoogan (10-02-2017)
#213
10-02-2017, 02:08 AM
#214
10-30-2017, 10:07 PM
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#215
10-31-2017, 12:44 AM
#216
10-31-2017, 04:31 AM
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Yep, just keep pushing the top of that switch and it will scroll through all the info you want. I tend to leave mine set at the gear/rpm display. with that, the speedo and little yellow gas pump that comes on when you're low on fuel, you have all the essentials right under your nose.
#217
10-31-2017, 10:55 PM
From the Owners Manual this may help
Configuring Instruments
1. With the security system fob present, press and hold the TRIP switch to begin accessory mode.
2. See Instrument Settings. Press and hold both turn signal switches until "SETUP" is displayed in the LCD window.
3. Press the left or right turn signal switches to navigate through the following settings.
4. Fuel Gauge: Displays the fuel gauge. Press and hold both turn signal switches to toggle the fuel gauge ON or OFF.
5. Gear Indicator: Displays the gear indicator. Press and hold both turn signal switches to toggle the gear indicator ON or OFF.
6. Brightness: Controls the instrument backlighting brightness. Press and hold both turn signal switches to toggle between BRIGHT or DIM.
7. ALL: Controls the backlighting color for all the instruments. Press and hold both turn signal switches until a number appears. Press right or left turn signal switches to select a color (0* 600). Press and hold both turn signal switches until "SAVED" is shown.
8. DIAL: Controls the backlighting color for the tachometer dial. Press and hold both turn signal switches until a number appears. Press right or left turn signal switches to select a color (0*600). Press and hold both turn signal switches until "SAVED" is shown.
9. LCD: Controls the backlighting color for the LCD window. Press and hold both turn signal switches until a number appears. Press right or left turn signal switches to select a color (0* 600). Press and hold both turn signal switches until "SAVED" is shown.
10. TACH: Controls the backlighting color for the tachometer needle. Press and hold both turn signal switches until a number appears. Press right or left turn signal switches to select a color (0*600). Press and hold both turn signal switches until "SAVED" is shown.
11. When finished, press and hold the TRIP switch to turn the motorcycle off.
Configuring Instruments
1. With the security system fob present, press and hold the TRIP switch to begin accessory mode.
2. See Instrument Settings. Press and hold both turn signal switches until "SETUP" is displayed in the LCD window.
3. Press the left or right turn signal switches to navigate through the following settings.
4. Fuel Gauge: Displays the fuel gauge. Press and hold both turn signal switches to toggle the fuel gauge ON or OFF.
5. Gear Indicator: Displays the gear indicator. Press and hold both turn signal switches to toggle the gear indicator ON or OFF.
6. Brightness: Controls the instrument backlighting brightness. Press and hold both turn signal switches to toggle between BRIGHT or DIM.
7. ALL: Controls the backlighting color for all the instruments. Press and hold both turn signal switches until a number appears. Press right or left turn signal switches to select a color (0* 600). Press and hold both turn signal switches until "SAVED" is shown.
8. DIAL: Controls the backlighting color for the tachometer dial. Press and hold both turn signal switches until a number appears. Press right or left turn signal switches to select a color (0*600). Press and hold both turn signal switches until "SAVED" is shown.
9. LCD: Controls the backlighting color for the LCD window. Press and hold both turn signal switches until a number appears. Press right or left turn signal switches to select a color (0* 600). Press and hold both turn signal switches until "SAVED" is shown.
10. TACH: Controls the backlighting color for the tachometer needle. Press and hold both turn signal switches until a number appears. Press right or left turn signal switches to select a color (0*600). Press and hold both turn signal switches until "SAVED" is shown.
11. When finished, press and hold the TRIP switch to turn the motorcycle off.
#219
12-11-2017, 11:59 PM
OK, spring has sprung in the Great White North and I've put about 100 mi on my BO since doing the Ricor / RaceTech front suspension mod. Our Spring pothole situation up here is just excellent proving ground for testing suspensions 
:O.
1) Nose dive and rear tire chirp on aggressive braking,, gone !!!
2) Turn initiation improved.
3) Impact with pothole edges, while still unpleasant, is far less tooth shattering an experience. The downside in this is that now the rear suspension is more noticeable as an issue but, as I haven't touched the "as delivered" stock shock adjustment yet, I think I can adjust some of the "hardness" out.
As a side issue,, I've dropped the cold rear tire (Dunlop 250) pressure to 37 psi from 42 psi. Cold tire pressure is now 37 and hot tire pressure stabilizes at 42. Stock front tire is still at 36 psi.
I'm a bit heftier than LA, ( 6' and 235 lbs) and the RaceTech site put my spring selection midway between 1.0 kg and 1.1 kg. I opted for the 1.0 as I'm not an aggressive rider. I have no way of knowing if the 1.1 would have been a better choice without actually trying one but I'm super satisfied with what I've got now. Based on my current experience, I'd suggest anyone making a spring selection from the RaceTech site ought to opt for the next heavier spring set if your criteria places you within 20% of it. Otherwise the lower wt. set should suit you and your long wheelbase BO just fine. My ride stays 100% flat (no dip at all) on all but the very most aggressive of stops yet the cruising ride remains comfortable. One thing is for damn sure, particularly if you're a big boy, you'll be well impressed with the improvement you get over the stock front suspension.
I followed LA's choices and installation methods to a "T" except for 2 things:
1) I did not torque my fork caps to 60 ft-lbs. (I'm going by the *** of my pants on this, the manual says to torque to 60 ft-lbs). It is my opinion that the manual is wrong.
2) I have ABS brakes so indexed the spacer / sensor according to the manual. This is simple and takes 2 seconds. Just don't forget to do it if you have ABS brakes..
:O.1) Nose dive and rear tire chirp on aggressive braking,, gone !!!
2) Turn initiation improved.
3) Impact with pothole edges, while still unpleasant, is far less tooth shattering an experience. The downside in this is that now the rear suspension is more noticeable as an issue but, as I haven't touched the "as delivered" stock shock adjustment yet, I think I can adjust some of the "hardness" out.
As a side issue,, I've dropped the cold rear tire (Dunlop 250) pressure to 37 psi from 42 psi. Cold tire pressure is now 37 and hot tire pressure stabilizes at 42. Stock front tire is still at 36 psi.
I'm a bit heftier than LA, ( 6' and 235 lbs) and the RaceTech site put my spring selection midway between 1.0 kg and 1.1 kg. I opted for the 1.0 as I'm not an aggressive rider. I have no way of knowing if the 1.1 would have been a better choice without actually trying one but I'm super satisfied with what I've got now. Based on my current experience, I'd suggest anyone making a spring selection from the RaceTech site ought to opt for the next heavier spring set if your criteria places you within 20% of it. Otherwise the lower wt. set should suit you and your long wheelbase BO just fine. My ride stays 100% flat (no dip at all) on all but the very most aggressive of stops yet the cruising ride remains comfortable. One thing is for damn sure, particularly if you're a big boy, you'll be well impressed with the improvement you get over the stock front suspension.
I followed LA's choices and installation methods to a "T" except for 2 things:
1) I did not torque my fork caps to 60 ft-lbs. (I'm going by the *** of my pants on this, the manual says to torque to 60 ft-lbs). It is my opinion that the manual is wrong.
2) I have ABS brakes so indexed the spacer / sensor according to the manual. This is simple and takes 2 seconds. Just don't forget to do it if you have ABS brakes..
Rode Balcom Canyon last weekend and burst a fork seal. This upgrade was on my list, and I figured now's the time. Dealer fixed the seal while I had parts on order.
Ricor held my order waiting to clarify I wanted 5w vs 10w oil. Turns out Brian is still there and confirmed 5w. Bonus - guy @ Ricor lives in my town, and delivered that night to my door!
Removing end caps on the forks had me worried, but body weight on top of the wrench was no big deal. LOTS of pressure, but not a lot of travel. Didn't go flying like a 1911 recoil spring would.
The 60 degree angle of resting the forks also worried me. Turns out you can let the forks collapse THEN lean them against something. Lots of room in there for oil without spilling.
I too, as above, went with the 85mm fork oil height (collapsed fork with the Intiminators in, no spring), and went for a ride today. This is with the 1.1kg springs (235-240 lbs with gear).
Dive is not eliminated, but greatly reduced. I'd guess 50% travel (compression) reduction.
The front no longer skips across the tops of ripples (like a MX'r on whoops). Those same ripples also don't make the front end shake and feel like the front isn't connected to the bike by more than a bungee cord.
The front now feels like it's connected to the road AND the bike!
I also did the EBC pads, since the leaking seal left me with oily brake pads. Another great option! However, my 2016 BO didn't use the P/N suggested (FA457HH), but instead the FA296HH. Possibly the 2015-2016 P/N.
3500 miles on this bike so far, and I'd guess I have 1500-2000 miles left until new tires are in order. I can't wait!!!
#220
12-19-2017, 12:13 AM
Road Master
wish I read this first, JON over at richer told me 3/4 cup oil 10wt per tube, I have a rocker c, I knew something was wrong as I dumped 4 times the oil, im super pissed, its 20 degrees, and I have to rebuild this front end AGAIN, just put new rims/tires/calipers/brakes/ricors/race craft springs, and I said I thought it took 5 wt, he argued 10wt.... fender s on, I was at the rear end apart of winter build, these guys suck, these rigors better work, I just cant believe I went back n forth ill find page where the amount of oil is recommended that he told me.....this is bullshit