I drained/pulled the fuel tank to make everything easier. After the bar swap which reused the old switches, I put it all back together and the ignition won't fire. When I plugged the fuel line back into the tank, there was a little fuel seeping out before the connection clicked. I can hear the fuel pump turning on with a largely empty fuel tank.
When I rebuilt the cable harnesses, I used new connector housings and they appear to be seating correctly and I carefully documented the pin outs with labels and photos. I'm pretty sure the pin outs are correct because the fuel pump switch works as do all the other switches (except for hazards.)
Off the top of my head I think it could be 1) a fuse or 2) The computer shuts off the starter if it senses low fuel?
Anyone seen this before? Should I add a little fuel to the tank to test theory #2?

 

Yes, put fuel in the tank first

 

I wanted to avoid it until knowing the CPU was involved. If it turns out to be a problem with the control board, then I'd have to drain the tank and pull the whole handlebar assembly. Draining the tank again will be messy like the first time.

 

Update:
I checked the DTC codes
P: no rsp
S: None / PN 68925-07 (TSSM?)
SP: None / PN 67033-08 (Speedometer)
T: no rsp
B: no rsp

I found another post on hdforums where the owner had the same problem (starter won't even try to engage, no clicking, no nothin') but never posted the solution. Possibly it's the security module not unlocking the ignition? Going to check the electrical section on forum to see if there are any posts on these

 

I just recently did a handlebar swap and had the same issue. Let us know if that fixed your no start.

 

Based on your posts, you took the proper precautions to reassemble correctly... but, the computer doesn't turn off the fuel when the level is low (you can hear the fuel pump turning on, correct?) and if you disconnected the battery while doing all the rewiring, unless connected wrong, you wouldn't have blown a fuse. But checking fuses is an easy, good place to start...

If everything worked well before you swapped the bars, I hate to say it, but there is a high probability that you made a mistake during reassembly....

It could be something simple like a connector not fully seated. Other possible causes could be .... a pin in a connector not properly seated, a pin not put back in it's proper place, or something you touched/moved/tugged on while installing the bars is now loose....

Try to figure out which circuits no longer work, then look at those specific circuits for pin and connector issues...

Electrical issues are a pain, but be methodical and persistent and you'll find it...

 

Thanks for addressing the question on ignition safety shutoff & the detailed response. I checked the ignition fuse and one or two others and they were good.

So, wiring....that's what I'm afraid of. I replaced the connector housings and the pins did sit too low until I grabbed a needle nose and pulled them forward. I thought to use dielectric upon reassembly but didn't have any on hand. The left hand connector didn't want to click into place so I used pliers to get it the last millimeter or two. I guess I'll have to pull them apart and check the pins. I'm starting to hate these Molex connectors.

 

There should be no need to pull the pin forward. It was either the wrong size pin, or it was in the connector wrong. When done correctly, they push/snap right it place...

It's never a good idea to force a connector, especially with pliers... usually means something isn't lining up or seated properly....

I think you are on the right trail.... I would guess you have a couple connectors to repin....

There are a couple videos on molex connectors, you should watch a few... This is a good one, but he goes fast...


To supplement that video, your HD service manual has an addendum (in the back) that shows how to take apart the various electrical connectors used on the bike... The addendum has some good illustrations and pics.

Let us know how it goes..

 

Damn. I replaced the housings using the same part number as before. They look identical. The pins did snap in easily, but there was more space for them to move forward after the snap. I wonder if the pins got damaged during removal. '

I'll check out the manual. Hopefully they have a good recommendation on tools. I think the one I bought is pretty lousy.

Thanks for the link.

 

I looked at the connectors again today. The right side one seems to be good because the left controls work, brights, horn, signal, all good. The left connector which was the problematic one seems to be good too upon inspection. I think the mistake I made last time was forgot to snap the lock down on the molex. When I tested the pins today, they were seated solidly and when I clicked the connectors together it was with easy force. I'm going to call the dealer next week to see what the service department says. Maybe they can test the whole assembly if I bring it in.

Good news is, I figured out the trick to not having to completely pull the tank and still gain access to the connectors. I read about other guys doing it but couldn't figure out how to do it without removing the crossover hose until today. That's a huge time saver!