Ok, I guess not many of you ever try to tackle the job of swapping the inner primary so let me ask the question in a different way. If my bike was in neutral prior to the swap, is there anything that happens mechanically that I wouldn't be aware of that would cause the bike to somehow be "in gear" after the swap?

I man-handled the rear tire and I am able to make the tire move, but it feels like it is doing so with compression in the cylinder. Meaning, I hear a "puff" of air escape when I turned the tire. When I removed the clutch hub, sprocket, and chain I DID NOT remove it as an assembly nor did I install it as an assembly. I marked the chain and made sure I installed it in the same direction. I don't see any benefit from installing the drive components as an assembly.

My handle bars are removed and the clutch cable is hanging. The adjuster is screwed in completely allowing for as much play as possible.

 

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Maybe I'm not understanding the question. I've removed the primary to change tranny pulleys many times, on several different bikes (all touring bikes though) why can't you turn the key on and confirm neutral with the neutral light? You don't need the clutch to shift when the engine isn't running. I'm sure the shifter just got knocked out of neutral at some point.

 

I assume you mean you replaced the inner primary cover..Maybe to a chrome one? Anyway, reach back to the rear tire and bump it back and fwd while you move shift lever to bump it out of gear. With it in gear and even when the clutch lever is pulled in, especially after sitting, those clutch plates stick pretty good.

 

Thanks for the replies!! I am sitting at work right now contemplating whether to take it all apart and start over, but everything went back together so smoothly that I would hate to do that if it is just me being too concerned for my own good.

Yes, I swapped the inner primary cover from a chrome one back to the stock black. I can't turn the key because there isn't one to turn yet. All the tins are at paint and I don't expect them in hand till a couple months from now.

Stupid question coming - just to clarify, I don't need to engage the clutch to shift the trans if the motor isn't running. I can bump the tire back and forth wile moving the shift lever to find neutral, correct?

 

I think it safe to say the bike is in gear. With removal of clutch basket it sounds like the clutch pushrod may have jumped out of place. I would start with a clutch adjustment as described in the HD service manual. With the outer locknut loosened this should allow you to reseat the clutch pushrod into its proper home by pulling the clutch lever a couple times. Follow the service manual steps for completing the adjustment. Loosening the jam nut and backing off cable will do nothing. Although it's a step included in adjusting clutch it's mainly just for setting clutch lever free play.

 

Sure..no problem. Just rock it down to first and then pull up to make sure you are actually in the neutral detent. There is truly just one detent but it can actually be out of gear between any gear sets for what you want to do. Not a good idea with motor running however..

 

Guys, thanks for the help. Went home, rocked the tire back and forth and was able to find neutral and the tire spins freely. I need to clarify and correct some misinformation I was passing along.

The bike was NOT in neutral prior to the swap. It was in fact in gear. This is why I was/am puzzled and confused. After I removed the chain tensioner I went to remove the clutch adjuster jam-nut. When I tried to do this the whole drive assembly along with the back tire wanted to move. So much so that I needed to use the locking tool to hold the clutch basket stationary for just a moment to break the jam-nut free. Admittedly/stupidly, this is why I thought the bike was in neutral because of how freely the whole drive assembly wanted to rotate.

After installing the inner cover and drive assembly I went to tighten the sprocket bolt. It was at this time that I noticed the drive assembly did not want to rotate freely. I still used the locking tool to get the final torque, but the drive assembly was extremely stiff.

In the beginning, when removing the clutch basket I noticed that the nut, the one that has reversed threads, was incredibly easy to remove. So easy in fact that it felt like I didn't even need to use a breaker bar. I literally went from a 1:00 to a 3:00 position with little to no effort at all.

So now I have another issue, man I tell you this has been one b!tch of a job for me. My '12 Softail manual lists the torque value for the starter bolts as 25-27 ft. lbs. Mount the starter up, set my torque wrench for 26 lbs. and start turning one of the bolts down and I'll be damned if it didn't want to wring out of the bolt head. So, sphincter fully puckered I switch ratchets and slowly back it out. Tried a different torque wrench with the second bolt and it also felt like it wanted to wring off before I could get the wrench to snap. Does my manual have a misprint? I made double and triple sure it said ft. lbs. and not in. lbs. So now I have to get new bolts...JC I hope this SOB runs when I am done!!! Wrenching on this bike has been a constant struggle from the start!!!

 

I checked the torques values, and I get the same: 25-27 ft. lbs

 

My 04 says 13-20. That 27 is Nm I think. And make sure you have correct size allen or torx tool. Pretty sure mine are allen. Cannot remember if it was metric or not. Wrench should be tight. I know, it appears that the OD of the screw head was rather small considering the hex.