As for my Colorado Customs rear pulley. It is for a 2005 and down dyna. So there is a little bit of a "built in" spacer. My measurements are showing me that I may not need a spacer at all. It is just an 1/8th difference over all from stock. The pulley is a 1 1/8 instead of the stock 1". It came with used bolts but the thread must be different for the newer dynas. I wanted new bolts anyway ofcourse. I'll have the pulley installed right after the bolts come in and I will update how everything worked out. I ordered stock length bolts which I'm sure will work with this set up.
Just completed my 30/70 swap on a 13 wg and I must say it is an impressive change.
I used a sprocket (40576-06), a Tri Glide front sprocket (83595-11) , Diamond engineering 12pt bolts and an inner primary kit (83595-11). I also replaced "The Nut" (35241-06) because I had bought another thinking I would have to drill and split the old one, new lock plate (35242-06), screws (3594) and a quart of whatever you prefer as chain case lube. I still can use both belt guards. No spacers were needed. Belt runs true about 1/16 to 1/8" from the outside edge of the sprocket. Took about 4 hours with beer and neighbor breaks.
All in all, it was a simple swap with the exception of "The Nut" I borrowed, at his insistence, my neighbors Harbor freight (shudder) 1/2" electric impact gun and it came off without a hitch. Never would have guessed it could do it. I was impressed! (But not impressed enough to buy one.)
FYI, If you whack the throttle in first gear the front wheel will come up.
I put a little over 100 miles on it today and think I should have done this years ago! All the gears are much more useable and the throttle response is very snappy. Mileage appears to have suffered slightly but not enough to be much of a bother.
I very highly suggest, if you haven't done this yet, do it! You will be a very happy camper,
Just completed my 30/70 swap on a 13 wg and I must say it is an impressive change.
I used a sprocket (40576-06), a Tri Glide front sprocket (83595-11) , Diamond engineering 12pt bolts and an inner primary kit (83595-11). I also replaced "The Nut" (35241-06) because I had bought another thinking I would have to drill and split the old one, new lock plate (35242-06), screws (3594) and a quart of whatever you prefer as chain case lube. I still can use both belt guards. No spacers were needed. Belt runs true about 1/16 to 1/8" from the outside edge of the sprocket. Took about 4 hours with beer and neighbor breaks.
I'm about to do a '14 WG. You're saying the belt guard still fits even with the 70t rear pulley? That's good news. I think our models are identical? Did you figure everything out for the new gear ratio settings and VSS pulse in your tuner? Is that rear 70t pulley 1"? I assume you are you just running it with extra room.
For those that don't have access to pro-sumer grade impact guns... This worked for us. We cross drilled the socket in the center of socket's no man's land. Then we hit it with the Ryobi while nearly doing a pullup on that 6' cheater bar. This was after shearing the 1/2" drives off 2 breaker bars.
Cross drilled socket- first marked mainshaft depth and 1/2" drive depth
inserted sheared breaker bar
6 ft cheater bar
Last edited by rosefromashes; 07-15-2019 at 11:12 AM.
Reason: add signature
re-do those front fork dampers and springs next, and you will be wholly amazed. i have a thread on it and it's a relatively simple home DIY, and not an expensive one. it is a major improvement in every aspect. huge.
Dawg! My hawg go to bro for inquiries in regards to how to make my ride awesome... First, I hope all’s well with you and all your loved ones!
For my question of the day.I recently replaced fork fluids. INDY did it. And I don’t know what he used. Probably from an open can );
Anyways, helped with both damping and rebound some. Some. And some more LOL. But over all, feels really stiff. I guess that is a good thing. Especially at my age LOL. But I’m still wallowing around on uneven surfaces on bends at speed. Might be due to how the rear is reacting, or a combination of the two front and rear susp? Always liked how the back felt compared to the front in terms of how both forces acted. Feels like a memory foam mattes compared to the front. But then again? These two components have a job unique to each other at performing their end tasks. So each should be addressed differently... But that makes no sense to me at at all!
So, will up grading my 014 Slim’s susp. with better quality innards, complete my search for a better balance between the two?
As always, your input is like pure gold to me that I wish I had! So many thnx my bro! Oeace!
04-22-2019, 01:52 PM
