1986 FLST clutch hub nut
#1
1986 FLST clutch hub nut
Trying to get the clutch hub nut off my 86 and having no luck. The manual says left handed threads. I have tried my impact wrench and a breaker bar with a 4' cheater pipe and it hasn't moved. Is this left handed? I have found other mistakes in my manual. But not sure this is one of them. Any and all ideas welcome. Leary of trying to turn it counter clockwise. Don't want to damage anything.
#2
Yes the clutch hub nut is counter clockwise.
If you are not the original owner there's a chance somebody put something else in there. Sometimes I have luck if I gently tap with a hammer to kind of "separate" the threads. But if you've already tried impact and cheater bar I'm not sure that will help.
If you are not the original owner there's a chance somebody put something else in there. Sometimes I have luck if I gently tap with a hammer to kind of "separate" the threads. But if you've already tried impact and cheater bar I'm not sure that will help.
#3
I am the only owner of this bike and have had this off several times. Don't understand what the problem is this time. I figured the manual was correct or I would have changed it as I have when finding other mistakes. But come on a 4' cheater pipe......the comp nut loosened up and it's alot tighter.
#4
I am the only owner of this bike and have had this off several times. Don't understand what the problem is this time. I figured the manual was correct or I would have changed it as I have when finding other mistakes. But come on a 4' cheater pipe......the comp nut loosened up and it's alot tighter.
Have you personally had it off several times? I suspect not or there would be no need to wonder about it's disassembly procedure. If someone else had it off, they probably filled it with green Loctite which releases under heat and impact. Don't hammer on it with an impact in the clockwise direction unless you want to buy a new inner hub. Use heat and impact, CCW direction, it will come loose, then build yourself a jam bar and torque the nut with a torque wrench to the factory spec. These hubs break easily, adjacent to the key groove. I always machine a press on ring from CRS bar stock and press it on the stub that sticks out, this keeps them from breaking. Zipper's sells the part if you just want to install one without doing any fab.
#5
YES I have had it off several times NOT a shop or joe blow down the road. Please do not assume anything. When I was a young man I'm sure I would remember such things. But as it has been at least 6 years since I had it apart I have forgotten. I don't do these type of things daily. Now, I used blue loctite which is good for 1/4-3/4 bolts. So by your statements you believe it is right handed threads. "Don't hammer on it with an impact in the clockwise direction". Which clockwise would be the loosening direction if it is left handed threads.
#6
Your clutch is the oil style that requires a puller to get the front off???
Like you said, it's left hand threads and clockwise would be the loosening direction. Just looked it up since the age to make sure. It's fine threads, so even blue loctite could make it really tight but since red loctite is on compensator nut, it should not be that tight. The torque for the compensator is twice the clutch. If the thread stretched too far last time you put it together, it could be gauled. How are you locking up primary. If it's not secure, an impact has little effect and I hate long breaker bars. If you use one, be sure to have someone support bike and come out with an extension on a jack stand for support and have you breaker on the other side of the stand. Sound like you have a real mess.
Like you said, it's left hand threads and clockwise would be the loosening direction. Just looked it up since the age to make sure. It's fine threads, so even blue loctite could make it really tight but since red loctite is on compensator nut, it should not be that tight. The torque for the compensator is twice the clutch. If the thread stretched too far last time you put it together, it could be gauled. How are you locking up primary. If it's not secure, an impact has little effect and I hate long breaker bars. If you use one, be sure to have someone support bike and come out with an extension on a jack stand for support and have you breaker on the other side of the stand. Sound like you have a real mess.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 02-03-2017 at 11:22 AM.
#7
Yes needs a puller to pull the hub (basket). Which I made many years ago. Using a cut off broom handle to lock it up. Jamming it into the comp. And someone standing on the rear brake. Always worked in the past on this bike and others. But it only goes between the chain and comp sprocket. But like I said always worked before. Bike is on a lift with the front wheel locked in and strapped down.
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#8
YES I have had it off several times NOT a shop or joe blow down the road. Please do not assume anything. When I was a young man I'm sure I would remember such things. But as it has been at least 6 years since I had it apart I have forgotten. I don't do these type of things daily. Now, I used blue loctite which is good for 1/4-3/4 bolts. So by your statements you believe it is right handed threads. "Don't hammer on it with an impact in the clockwise direction". Which clockwise would be the loosening direction if it is left handed threads.
You are right, I mis spoke on direction of rotation. You don't want to hammer it in the CCW direction, sorry for the confusion. It is a left hand thread.
I did not assume anything, that's why I asked. If you have the same manual now that you had then, it doesn't matter how long it's been, as if the manual was wrong, it was wrong then, too. ( you would have marked it the last time, right?) Blue Loctite does nothing on these type fasteners, so that is not an issue. All you can do now is get an electric or air impact that will break it loose, ( it's likely cross-threaded as I don't have trouble with them and work on them often), and see what you have left to work with.
#9