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  #21  
Old 10-24-2017, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Pitbull_Dallas
Ordered a set of rocker lockers. I've watched the videos and read the installation instructions and I got to thinking. I was wondering if I could remove the bolts on the notched shaft side one at a time and install the rocker locker, then reinstall the bolt and retorque without creating any problems. That way I don't have to mess with the lifter bleeding or the oil breather. I realize the rocker shaft is under pressure from the valve springs, but it might be doable if (big if) the notches are lined up or I can get them to line up.

What say you?
I wish it were, but that is not a good idea. Torquing down the rocker support plate in order, and in steps is to keep the plate from warping...so even if you could get the notches to line up (not sure you could) it is still putting the support plate at risk by leaving 3 tight and removing one completely.

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Pitbull_Dallas (10-24-2017)
  #22  
Old 10-24-2017, 04:14 PM
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Well, that's what I was pretty much thinking, but I was hoping someone would say otherwise. I'll do it the right way..
 
  #23  
Old 10-25-2017, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Pitbull_Dallas
Ordered a set of rocker lockers. I've watched the videos and read the installation instructions and I got to thinking. I was wondering if I could remove the bolts on the notched shaft side one at a time and install the rocker locker, then reinstall the bolt and retorque without creating any problems. That way I don't have to mess with the lifter bleeding or the oil breather. I realize the rocker shaft is under pressure from the valve springs, but it might be doable if (big if) the notches are lined up or I can get them to line up.

What say you?
I installed the other version (Rockouts) this summer. I removed the rocker support plates, and it really isn't that difficult or time consuming. Make sure you follow the factory service manual instructions for removal/installation of the rocker support plates, and blow the oil out of the bolt holes in the lower rocker boxes. They really made a difference in the top end rattling I was getting. Virtually eliminated it.

Also, while you have the breathers off, drill the oil return holes in the support plates out to .100" - .125". This really helps with preventing oil from puking out of them. I installed a set of DK's Stage 3 breather bolts (vented to atmosphere), and before I drilled the holes, I was getting quite a lot of oil spitting. After drilling the return holes, the front cylinder is bone dry, and I get just a tiny bit of oil mist from the rear cylinder.




Cheers!
 

Last edited by Clammy; 10-25-2017 at 11:28 AM.
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  #24  
Old 10-25-2017, 02:50 PM
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While we're at it, this I'd a pretty good instructional video on the rocker boxes. Granted its an 88, but it's practically the same..

 
  #25  
Old 10-25-2017, 03:41 PM
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I pulled and replaced heads a couple times a few years I ago. When you reinstall those rocker supports/arms there is some play, and parts can get slightly misaligned. There are special alignment bolts to make sure you get everything centered. You don't have to use them, as there are torquing sequences that align the rocker supports.

i actually was getting a lot more noise and vibration at first and pulled everything apart to double check. My new heads had heavier springs and cams were higher lift, and when I pulled rocker covers, I found some contact spots. I ended up grinding some webbing on covers for extra clearance and took my time aligning the rocker arm supports. I installed Rocker Lockers at the time to just do anything to quiet things down with higher lift cams and heavier springs. After going thru everything a second time and clearancing the covers, my bike was fine.
 

Last edited by txphatboy; 10-25-2017 at 05:32 PM.
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  #26  
Old 10-25-2017, 04:48 PM
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The design engineers could have been kind enough to put a couple of alignment pins on the rocker box and rocker arm support for alignment to get everything where it needs to be, but no..
 
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