what did they do to fix the condensation in the speedo?

 

installed a new one

 

 

Yes, the radiator on the front of frame.

 

I now have 27,500 on my 1 year old 114 Heritage. Except for the rattling gas cap, no issues.

I love this bike.

 

No serious issues. Rattling gas cap. Replaced under warranty. New one rattles just as bad, so no use bothering with it. Condensation in speedometer. Haven't had it replaced as others have reported replacements are just as bad. Some have complained about the saddlebags not latching. I haven't had an issue with that. Maybe they aren't pushing down on the lid far enough. You can feel them latch if you pay attention. Mine is bone stock except for a grasshopper back rest. Still debating buying the street cannon mufflers as I don't want to buy the tuner too. Lot of debate as to if it necessary. That big 114 engine pukes more oil into the air filter than I like. So I vented it to atmosphere. I carry the stock vent hoses and some plugs with me in case I have an issue on the road. I am really happy with the way the bike runs, handles and with the fuel mileage. If I had it to do over, I would buy it again.

 

Post 5 is interesting. Is modern Harleys suppose to be able to start in gear? Everyone I have ever seen says to start in neutral. I have started them in gear, especially in the mountains but like always they chug forward a bit if cold since oil sticks all those disks. That slight drag is what makes Harleys shift correctly in the past.

What does the owners manual say? This for a 2018 Harley-Davidson Softail FLHC HERITAGE CLASSIC.

Interesting, wonder how many people realize they only have 10 seconds for the ACR system.

Shift transmission to neutral before starting engine to prevent accidental movement, which could result in death or serious injury. (00044a)
NOTICE
The engine should be allowed to run slowly for 15-30 seconds. This will allow the engine to warm up and let oil reach all surfaces needing lubrication. Failure to comply can result in engine damage.
NOTE
Do not open the throttle before starting the engine.

NOTE

• When ignition is ON the check engine light will light and stay on until engine is started. Service would be required when the engine is started and the check engine light stays on.
• The fuel pump may run for a few seconds to prime the fuel system prior to starting.
• As the switch is placed in the RUN position a click noise will be heard as the automatic compression release (ACR) valve opens allowing for easier starting. If the engine is not started within approximately 10 seconds a second click will be heard as the ACR valve closes.

1. Bring an assigned fob within range. Switch the OFF/RUN switch to the RUN position.
2. Though the illuminated green neutral lamp indicates that the transmission is in neutral, verify neutral by rolling the motorcycle back and forth with the clutch lever out.
3. Squeeze the clutch lever against the handlebar.
4. Press the start switch .
5. When the engine has started, you can operate your motorcycle as you normally would after raising the jiffy stand.

 

Yes the modern Harleys can be started in gear.

 

Every thing you wrote is 100% correct. And, although I read through the owners and service manual, I did not take those particular notes to mind.

At the age of 76 and having driven since I was 15 years old, and most of the vehicles until recently had been standard shift vehicles of all types, I understood a clutch is supposed to disingage the engine from the transmision, period.

I have never needed to placed vehicle in Neutral before starting and I have never intentionally parked a standard shift vehicle in Neutral because it can roll. For this same reason I never leave my bike in neutral when on the kickstand with the engine off as this can alow the bike to roll too easily if bumped.

All that being said, my assumption therefore was, a bike was no different...pull in the clutch to diengage and start.. And, although I now know better, I still tend to do exactly that.

Since service adjusted the clutch the chuging (when started in gear with the cluch lever engaged) is not as bad as it was when the bike was new, However, when they made the first adjustment they messed up the location of the friction zone to a point that there almost wasn't any. After back 3 time they have it adjusted better, but it still does not feel correct to me. I believe the cable is stretched and needs to be replace. I may have to force that issue with service.

And just to be clear, I still feel that the bike should not chug forward when starting in gear with the clutch lever fully engaged, even when cold. But that is just my opinion. Howevere, I've learned to live with it.

 

There are 9 friction plates and 8 steel plates in a Harley oil lubricated clutch. The drive on tight serrations on the inside and outside wide splines. They tend to bind and oil stick even when clutch opens almost on the average 1/4" Not a lot for all those disk and the serrations are snug. I have worked bike with wet clutches for 53 years. Never have I seen one that did not drag a tad. What lines up the engagement dogs in transmission.
On mine, when cold, I can hold in clutch and hit the throttle a few bips and nuge bike back to break it totally. Stops the cold 1st gear bang engagement. However, sometime, it does it too good and the shift dog will not engage. (all transmission gears are all engaged and spin all the time. What engages the two used gears is the 6 drive lugs that lock in)

Know it would be a pain on a trike but pull in the clutch while in first and have someone push you back and fwd a few feet 4 or 5 times. Now hit the starter. Most of the times, it will not tug since that rocking brakes that oil film stuck plate that is floating but stuck to a drive disk. Also make sure too much oil is not in primary and it is Formula +. The oil level should only be up to the bottom of the large spline. However, if you park on slopes or hills, the disk will be flooded from get go.