Arlen Ness 10" Modular Mini Apes - Questions
#1
Arlen Ness 10" Modular Mini Apes - Questions
Hello fellow Harley riders,
I just ordered a set of Arlen Ness 10" modular mini apes. I have a few questions about them, just wondering if anyone can help me out. I've got a 2007 Softail Deluxe with the stock beach bar style handlebars.
Do I need extended clutch, brake and throttle cables for these bars or will the stock ones be long enough? I also ordered an 1 1/4" Baron Custom bullet tach. Will there be room on the bars for this tach? What's the best way to mount it?
Any tips greatly appreciated. Cheers.
I just ordered a set of Arlen Ness 10" modular mini apes. I have a few questions about them, just wondering if anyone can help me out. I've got a 2007 Softail Deluxe with the stock beach bar style handlebars.
Do I need extended clutch, brake and throttle cables for these bars or will the stock ones be long enough? I also ordered an 1 1/4" Baron Custom bullet tach. Will there be room on the bars for this tach? What's the best way to mount it?
Any tips greatly appreciated. Cheers.
#2
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Living in a van down by the river
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My reply may be irrelevant since it's a different bike and bars ('18 Low Rider, Todds Cycle 10" Strip apes). But, since the shape and length of the bars is about the same as yours it may help. I just now did a test fit. The clutch cable would barely work, the brake line needs about 2". I think I'll go 2" over on both. Sorry I can't help with throttle cables, I've got TBW.
I don't know yet about the wires. If they need to be longer I'll just go with Namz plug and play extensions and put heat shrink over the connection at the individual harnesses. Pics show what I'm working with.
Oh yeah, while they were on I could definitely feel the flex with the stock rubber riser bushings. I have Arlen Ness polyethylene bushings to put in, just haven't done it yet. I'd recommend it if you weren't planning on it. About $25 from Revzilla.
-jeff
I don't know yet about the wires. If they need to be longer I'll just go with Namz plug and play extensions and put heat shrink over the connection at the individual harnesses. Pics show what I'm working with.
Oh yeah, while they were on I could definitely feel the flex with the stock rubber riser bushings. I have Arlen Ness polyethylene bushings to put in, just haven't done it yet. I'd recommend it if you weren't planning on it. About $25 from Revzilla.
-jeff
Last edited by ole_phart; 01-12-2019 at 01:24 PM.
#3
Thanks for the info Jeff. I can't find any cable kits that are designed for 10" bars on JP Cycles. They have LA Choppers and another company's kits for 12"-14" apes.. do you think these would work or would there be too much slack? Yeah I'm gonna get the Namz or similiar wire extensions.. would a 4" extension kit be long enough? Or an 8" extension? I haven't done apehanger upgrade before so this is new territory for me and I'm away at work so I can't look at my bike at the moment.
#4
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Living in a van down by the river
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I’ve never done ape hangers before either. I put Heritage bars on my RK and LA Chopper Z bars on my Deuce but didn’t need to extend anything with those.
Go to revzilla or Dennis Kirk, search for Namz and you’ll see everything electrical. You’d need 3 items; turn signal extensions, module extensions and tbw extensions. Their year group may stop at ‘17 but if they’re Canbus connectors they’ll work.
i saw an ancient thread here, several years old where a guy said his rule of thumb is to extend everything:
16” bars - 8”
14” bars - 6”
12” bars - 4”
He didn’t list 10” but if ya drop his table down one notch then his rule would be 2” extensions for 10” bars and that’s what it appeared to be yesterday when I had them temporarily mounted.
I’ve looked everywhere for a magical table that says “if ya got this bike and need to extend x inches, order this”. I plan on using MoCo brake and clutch cables. I did find a post here where a guy uploaded all the MoCo extended cables and their overall length. Using that I’ll be able to measure the stock cables, add the length I need then will have the part numbers to order. I’m on my iPad now and it’s a real PITA to navigate with this thing. I can either post a link or upload the tables later if you want / need em and can’t find the thread.
Another challenge - I consider myself to be somewhat intelligent and was an aircraft mechanic in a past life. I’ve read the service manual instructions and watched YouTube videos on how to uncouple the clutch cable halves until I’m blue in the face. It makes absolutely no sense to me. Even if I don’t extend the clutch (like I said earlier it could work as is, it’s that close) I’m putting on chrome levers while I’m at it so will need to do that.
I’ve babbled long enough for now. Hope this helps a bit.
Jeff
Go to revzilla or Dennis Kirk, search for Namz and you’ll see everything electrical. You’d need 3 items; turn signal extensions, module extensions and tbw extensions. Their year group may stop at ‘17 but if they’re Canbus connectors they’ll work.
i saw an ancient thread here, several years old where a guy said his rule of thumb is to extend everything:
16” bars - 8”
14” bars - 6”
12” bars - 4”
He didn’t list 10” but if ya drop his table down one notch then his rule would be 2” extensions for 10” bars and that’s what it appeared to be yesterday when I had them temporarily mounted.
I’ve looked everywhere for a magical table that says “if ya got this bike and need to extend x inches, order this”. I plan on using MoCo brake and clutch cables. I did find a post here where a guy uploaded all the MoCo extended cables and their overall length. Using that I’ll be able to measure the stock cables, add the length I need then will have the part numbers to order. I’m on my iPad now and it’s a real PITA to navigate with this thing. I can either post a link or upload the tables later if you want / need em and can’t find the thread.
Another challenge - I consider myself to be somewhat intelligent and was an aircraft mechanic in a past life. I’ve read the service manual instructions and watched YouTube videos on how to uncouple the clutch cable halves until I’m blue in the face. It makes absolutely no sense to me. Even if I don’t extend the clutch (like I said earlier it could work as is, it’s that close) I’m putting on chrome levers while I’m at it so will need to do that.
I’ve babbled long enough for now. Hope this helps a bit.
Jeff
Last edited by ole_phart; 01-13-2019 at 07:24 AM.
#5
Nothing's going to reach. Strip the bars, install the apes and see how much you need.
It's a slower process then having everything there at once, but you'll get it right the first time.
I went from 10" to 14" and put the wires in the bars. They were 12" short.
I cut, soldered and heat shrank the wires with new crimp ends.
I installed 8" over stock on all the cables and brake line.
Dennis Kirk sells bike specific 4' wire extension kits, but compare the colors.
I found 2 purple and no black in 1 harness. Easy fix but still could have ruined my day.
These throttle cables are 6" over, they reach but are tighter than I want. New cables are ordered.
Here's My final result.
It's a slower process then having everything there at once, but you'll get it right the first time.
I went from 10" to 14" and put the wires in the bars. They were 12" short.
I cut, soldered and heat shrank the wires with new crimp ends.
I installed 8" over stock on all the cables and brake line.
Dennis Kirk sells bike specific 4' wire extension kits, but compare the colors.
I found 2 purple and no black in 1 harness. Easy fix but still could have ruined my day.
These throttle cables are 6" over, they reach but are tighter than I want. New cables are ordered.
Here's My final result.
Last edited by RANGER73; 01-13-2019 at 07:39 AM.
#7
I used electrical bead chain to pull electrical pull string through, then tied the string to the wires, a little tape and push/guide not pull.
the string just guides the slack as you push it into the bar.
Went real easy, easier than I imagined. I'm an electrician, and have access to pulling lube, none was needed.
Just be patient. The bead chain was the key to getting the string in the bars.
In case you're not familiar with bead chain, It's the metal pull chain that they use on light fixtures.
the string just guides the slack as you push it into the bar.
Went real easy, easier than I imagined. I'm an electrician, and have access to pulling lube, none was needed.
Just be patient. The bead chain was the key to getting the string in the bars.
In case you're not familiar with bead chain, It's the metal pull chain that they use on light fixtures.
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#9
#10
I don't have TBW but if it's going to be short cut it and extend it, I cut the ends off soldered on the extensions used heat shrink and crimped on new ends.
I kept my stock wires as long as possible so I could make the extensions outside the bar near the neck.
If you stagger the connector for the TBW it should pull through with the rest. The headlight is mounted on the triple tree so your signal wires shouldn't move
Everything goes to a connection under the tank.
I kept my stock wires as long as possible so I could make the extensions outside the bar near the neck.
If you stagger the connector for the TBW it should pull through with the rest. The headlight is mounted on the triple tree so your signal wires shouldn't move
Everything goes to a connection under the tank.