Ignition Switch Question????
 

Today on my lunch break I was moving my wife's bike (02 Heritage Softail) from the garage to the driveway to get another toy out. When I tried to start her bike to move it back into the garage I get no lights, nothing on either ignition or accessory. Thinking she may have left it on accidentally and ran the battery down, I push it into the garage. As I am pushing it i notice the dash lights flicker a little then stay on on accessory. I switch the switch back to ignition and no lights. If i wiggle the switch or turn it off then back on I can get the dash lights to light up but no fuel pump sound and no headlight. So I am pretty sure I just need a new ignition switch.

I called Harley and they want $159 and it will take 7-10 days for a new switch because they are going to key the barrels to the vin. We have a ride coming up next weekend and I want to make sure this thing is back up and running by then. I found some aftermarket switches online and figured I would give them a shot knowing they will come with a new key. Since this bike has the security system does the switch itself have to be programmed in some way or can I just use the aftermarket one?

Don't spend the money on a new switch! You can disassemble yours, clean the old grease and corrosion, re-grease, and re-assemble. Once you're done you'll remember what that switch is supposed to feel like when it was new. Haha

I've done it to mine, I think I found a "how-to" thread here. Here's a vid from YouTube talking about it...

From another forum...

"When I took the key lock/switch out, there was a big snap ring on the back that lets you remove a round plastic piece. That reveals 3 small springs sitting in 3 silver U shaped contacts sitting on 3 copper contacts, everything covered in dielectric grease. I noticed a black stripe on one of the contacts and it looked like the copper had worn off.

I removed the U shaped contacts, cleaned out the grease and scrubbed off the copper contacts until they were bright and shiny, then gave them 2 or 3 doses of contact cleaner. I covered all the contacts with new dielectric grease and pieced it back together. Works perfectly! I'm so excited I'll have to go buy cams, heads and a nitrous kit now!

One note-- when you have the back of the switch off, don't lift it off the bench-- that will allow the front (where key is) to separate from the center and that's when springs and plungers go *SPROING* and you go *AARGGHH*!

I love it when I can save 100 + labor in about an hour."

Remember a person assembled this, with patients you can disassemble and reassemble it.
Maybe not fix it but certainly disassemble and reassemble it.

The first thing you need to do is make sure the battery is fully charged, then have it load tested.

Your switch is easy to get to so pull it out and check it after you charge it up full. After you charge and clean it, if that don't work I would just use a toggle switch you can get at the hardware store until your new comes in.

Couldn't hurt, but if the OP is getting flickering when he moves the switch I'm betting it's the switch.

I'd just go with an aftermarket switch and be done with it. It's plug and play. I had a similar issue with my bike a number of years back and I took the switch apart with the intent of fixing it. Well, it wasn't fixable because one of the main contacts had sunk into the plastic housing. The extra key is a non-issue..

Thanks guys for the input! I took the switch out, took it apart and cleaned it up. Found some corrosion inside and on the contacts outside. Reassembled and not its working like a champ. I have the aftermarket one coming anyway so will keep it as a spare. Pretty simple fix actually which is never the case lol. Thanks again everyone!!

Wife is a happy camper her bike isn't out of commission for the ride this weekend. She hates riding on the back seat.