I have an 88 FXSTC. Was running great. Then just got a click trying to start. Long story, but replaced the solenoid, on the left side, separate from starter on right side. She ran great.

then just a click again at start? Have now replaced the ignition switch on dash. And replaced and resoldered wires for circuit break on mud flap under battery box under seat, and rewired, soldered wires for relay (next to circuit breaker) and ran new 14g single wire grounds...

nothing..

got 12.75 at battery, solenoid tests fine..

low voltage at relay..

so so power not getting through to starter..

anyway to relocate relay from mudflap?

and why do I have no fuse box?

any help would be appreciated.
tnx

 

Here’s your Clymer wiring diagram. Early softails did not have a fuse box. There is a main 30 amp fuse under the seat and 3 smaller fuses under the main keyed switch. You might jump a 14 gauge wire from the + battery post to the main fuse under the seat. That way you should get the power to the relay. I have an 84 fxst and that wire is missing in the Clymer diagram for the 84. Took me several days to figure it out. Once I had that wire in place it solved the problem.

 

Clymer wiring diagram for your fxstc.

 

Tnx boxer107, the previous owner must have rewired things, BC I don't recall a 30 amp fuse under the seat?
Nor did I see any smaller fuses under the main keyed switch when I replaced the ignition switch?
but I'll try and use your diagram.
tnx again.

 

Friend of mine just went through the exact same thing. Long story short, it turned out to be the battery in his security fob went dead. He replaced the battery, cranked right up. Do you have a security fob?

 

tmac00333, tnx for the reply, but no key fob. She's an 88 w no security system.
but tnx, good thought.

 

First, didn't read the where you'd done the simplest thing to try - replace the relay.

Second, no "fuse box" on these years.

Next, my '87 FLST had no fuses at all; instead it had circuit breakers. Not sure if there was a diff between 1987 and 1988, or between FLST and FXST, and my manuals are up in the shop. I had the ignition circuit breaker flake out and cause starting problems similar to what you describe. Replaced the breaker and all was well. Eventually, I stripped the bike down and rewired the whole thing. Part of that was ditching the relay and running a heavy duty switch directly to the solenoid. I'd eventually do that on every electric start bike I've owned, as soon as I'd do the first rebuild.

 

Pococj,
you're right, I left that out. When I said I rewired and soldered the relay next to circuit break, it was a new relay...

what at is the heavy duty switch you ran to solenoid?

tnx ax for the reply,

 

Heavy duty switches I use are some left-over Mil Spec spring return toggles, and spring return push buttons. I have mounted them on the fatbob dash, on the backside of the FL-type fork tins, in a custom made box, on an L-shaped bracket under the old style FL battery where the original relay mounted, and on a bracket that mounted the switch near the lower left rear of a Sloptail oil tank.

When you say low voltage at relay, are you meaning at the + side of the relay? If so, have you checked the condition of the handlebar start switch and the associated wiring?

If you use a screwdriver to jump between the small solenoid wire and the battery lead at the solenoid will it fire up? And what brand solenoid did you use? Some of them have cheap contacts that don't last very long.

 

Pococj,
service manual explains how to test voltage at relay, prongs on 85 & 86 of relay, flip rocker switch, and ignition on, then start button, should get battery voltage , but I get 8.6 at relay... could be wiring. I bought the relay that had to wired instead of an already wired one... everything is tight under the seat, meaning, maybe too tight and wired being pinched at end..

yes, I've jumped the solenoid w a jump box, and w a screwdriver... then it stopped working, thought I fried something?

switches at handle bars I assumed were good, as the bars were changed and subsequently the wiring to accomicate 16" apes.

But out given the age of bike, maybe switches are shot?

i can check brand of solenoid, worked fine when first install a few weeks ago.,

after new solenoid , got some runs out of her, then she wouldn't start, jumped her a few times, got somr runs, then dead again, that's when I desired to do new relay, and circuit breaker and if I was dropping mudflap and removing rear fender I figured to do voltage regulator as well..

once all that was together, I tried to start her, she was cranking ( which was more than I got before) trying to turn over... then nothing.

so I figured what I had done was ok, but seems I've blown something..

tried a 14g wire from + of battery direct to circuit breaker as someone suggested here, got nothing...

i'm I'm at a loss..

might be switches, but they were working previously?

could be starter at this point? Looks original..

frustrated.